Builds A pig for Father's Day (12 Viewers)

[WarDamnEagle]

Toyota 4Runner - 1984 thru – 1988 body mounts

Prothane® - Body Mount and Radiator Support Bushings

Body Mount and Radiator Support Bushings by Prothane®. Prothane 18-102-BL

www.carid.com

1984-1988 Toyota 4Runner Body Mount Kit - Black by Energy Suspension Part (8.4102G)

trail-gear.com

Thanks. I read through the most recent thread on this subject last night. I also found what I assume is the same kit at Cruiser Corps but the price at your first link is better. Looks like the same materials.

Body Mount Set - FJ55 - FJ56 - 1968-7/1980

Fits 1968-7/1980 FJ55 & FJ56. These body mounts are specially formulated out of high performance polyurethane and manufactured right here in the United States. They are soft enough for a smooth ride, and yet firm enough for the most demanding on or off-road conditions. They also have a metal...

cruisercorps.com

 

[scrapdaddy]

Sorry I'm late to this, but you got the wiper arms out, a tight fit. Yours is the newer design than my 71, where they improved some of the short comings. I don't know how far you want to take apart and rebuild, but here's a few pictures if needed. The grease in the motor gear box is old and caked like the tailgate motor and the joints on the arms are gunked up, all of which will help drag down the wipers when you need them.

 

[scrapdaddy]

If you're into to pain and real bored, you can drill out the rivets on the arm joints. My arms were rusty, so I had them cadmium plated while apart. I rebuilt them with small screws and locktite.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

If you're into to pain and real bored, you can drill out the rivets on the arm joints. My arms were rusty, so I had them cadmium plated while apart. I rebuilt them with small screws and locktite.

View attachment 3821733

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Must be some long winters up there!

Beautiful work though!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Drained the gas tank this morning. Apparently "E" on the gauge means 2.5 gal left. Used a long funnel zip tied in place per Bob's suggestion and drained it all into a 5 gal bucket. Had another bucket on standby in case E meant 1/2 full. Amazing how quickly those fumes spread though. My head was swimming by the time that finished draining. I have the thermostat in the shop set on 53F at the moment so it's not like it was particularly warm in there. Bucket went outside as soon as it quit draining.

I then disconnected all the rubber hoses from the hard pipes that go through the body underneath. Not sure if those are permanently attached. Need to investigate that a little further. The only hose left is the large fill line. It is broke loose and I was able to pull it back about an inch off the fuel tank inlet nozzle but that's about it unless I resort to more forceful measures. Needs to move another good inch or more to clear. Ultimately decided I would just leave it and let it come off when I lift the body off the frame.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Save that big rubber grommet, hard to find a replacement.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

So all that is left at this point, that I'm aware of at least, are the body mounts. I have been spraying the ones with nuts with PB Blaster on and off for a few days. Hopefully that will help somewhat. The front two nuts came off easy enough this morning but the bolts are being quite stubborn. I will probably try an impact wrench spinning the bolt while "gently" tapping the bolt from the bottom with a brass bar and hammer. Two man job so haven't tried it yet.

Interesting that the rearmost mounts have a plastic cover over the access point in the frame. Trapezoid piece held in with 4 screws. Looks like those are going to be fun to remove.

Two sets of mounts, identified as 6 below just have a bolt from the bottom of the puck into the body. There's no access in the frame to get to the bolt so I assume these four mounts are just resting on the frame and can only be removed when I lift the body?

Edit: That diagram is wrong. Here's an edited version:

Rearmost mount on the passenger side (#5 in diagram)

 

[scrapdaddy]

Wait until you take off those covers. Depending where the wagon came from, mine was full of Arizona sand. That's a big mud trap up in there. Getting the body on some sort of rotisserie will help clean all the crap out of it.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Wait until you take off those covers. Depending where the wagon came from, mine was full of Arizona sand. That's a big mud trap up in there. Getting the body on some sort of rotisserie will help clean all the crap out of it.

Wasn't too bad and thankfully it wasn't screws. It's the same clips that hold the window felts. Easy peasy.

 

[RUSH55]

Built plates that bolt on for mine. Don’t know if they’ll seal any better, but I liked the concept better than the original.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I built my own also and sealed them up, so this hopefully won't happen again.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I built my own also and sealed them up, so this hopefully won't happen again.

View attachment 3822173

Well yours need to be water tight.

@RUSH55 If you use the same "gasket" as the steering column shield then nothing will ever get behind them! Seriously though, nice work.

 

[RUSH55]

same "gasket" as the steering column shield

Need to get a PN# for that stuff!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Only spent about an hour in the shop today but got all the nuts and lower pucks off all the body mounts except for the driver's footwell. That one is slowly but surely coming apart but it might take another day or two of PB Blaster followed by a few turns of the nut. Oddly enough the rear 4 came right out including the spacers. Spacers are clearly frozen to some of the other mounts so that issue will have to be dealt with after lifting the body.

So I will be using my 2 post lift to remove this body and then to subsequently sit the body down on my trailer. My carefully conceived plan as of today (without any mind you) is to take two ~4.5' 2x4s and rip a 3/4" deep groove lengthwise about an inch from the side. Those will then slip over the pinch weld at the rockers and I will position the arms on either end to lift. I plan on leaving the lift arm flip-ups flat so that I can get as low as possible on the trailer. I assume the rockers are plenty strong to hold the body without issue? They have some rust on the back ends but otherwise seem fine structurally.

 

[bobm]

If the bolt on drivers side is giving you trouble, grind the head of and drive it through with a punch. Faster and easier

 

[WarDamnEagle]

If the bolt on drivers side is giving you trouble, grind the head of and drive it through with a punch. Faster and easier

Thanks Bob. Nut is about half off. I had to "gently" massage a couple of the others off as well. I have time and I want to save the bolts. Four rear ones are still available but not the six front ones. I know; big deal. Last resort I'll use a nut splitter.

 

[RUSH55]

I assume the rockers are plenty strong to hold the body without issue? They have some rust on the back ends but otherwise seem fine structurally.

Not sure if I’d assume that. They ‘might’ be ok, would suck to flatten them or distort them if they’re still good. Maybe consider blocking it from the body mounts? Run your lumber width-wise and save some ambition for the long haul.

Probably too late…

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Not sure if I’d assume that. They ‘might’ be ok, would suck to flatten them or distort them if they’re still good. Maybe consider blocking it from the body mounts? Run your lumber width-wise and save some ambition for the long haul.

Probably too late…

Not too late my friend. That's why I asked the question. I want to set the body down on the trailer on cribbing, on the body mounts. So I will give that some thought. I do have Bob's replacement rockers but don't want to screw other stuff up unnecessarily. Thanks

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Still cleaning up little items here and there including a bolt or two that had to be drilled out. Removed the charcoal canister drain line. It's held on with two clamps. Of course one of those two bolts broke off. The 8 mm body bolts haven't been any issue but anything 6mm or smaller, with a bit of rust, often snaps off without warning.

I also decided to remove the upper and lower fenders. For one thing, there's lots of 6mm bolts so if any wouldn't come out I thought it was better to deal with it now instead of leaving it up to the shop. I also wanted to gain better access to the driver's side kick panel area as I had broken two of the three hood latch bolts off shortly after buying this pig. I think I had to remove the hood latch to get to the kick panel area to install a new antenna. And of course, way back when, I went so far as to snap off a Snap On screw extractor in one of the holes. The other hole just had the broken bolt so I was able to get it out yesterday. Looking at options on the screw extractor. Probably need something carbide to drill that out. A total of 4 of the dozen or so 6mm bolts snapped removing the upper and lower fender. I've already taken care of 2 of them. Not that difficult when you have good access.

I carefully removed the rubber packing from the body after taking the upper and lower fender off. NLA of course but looks easily replicated. I was a little surprised to see bare metal on both sides of the packing (body underneath and upper fender on top). Clearly these parts were installed without paint, or even primer for that matter, and then painted assembled.

 

[J Mack]

Looking at options on the screw extractor.

Make it red hot a couple times before you drill it out.

Small Oxy-Acetylene welding tips works great if you have them.