Builds A pig for Father's Day (1 Viewer)

[jestlurnin]

@WarDamnEagle any close ups of the hood latch screws from the fender side? I broke 2 out of 3 bolts attempting to remove the hood latch lever while trying to remove the kick plate when I painted the floor of Marge. I’ve been going back and forth between drilling them out or removing the fender to get at them.

What would you suggest would be best route to take?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

@WarDamnEagle any close ups of the hood latch screws from the fender side? I broke 2 out of 3 bolts attempting to remove the hood latch lever while trying to remove the kick plate when I painted the floor of Marge. I’ve been going back and forth between drilling them out or removing the fender to get at them.

What would you suggest would be best route to take?

I think you can drill them out from inside the cab. I didn't have the right tools at the time and was more than a little impatient. What I have been doing is drilling a small hole first as dead center as I can get it. Use a very sharp punch and hammer to mark the center before drilling. I will have to confirm but I think I have started out with a 2mm bit and worked my way up to a 5 or maybe a 5.5mm. I have then used a 6mm tap to cut/push the remaining bits of the bolt out.

Unfortunately the screw extractor I was using was from the outside of the panel so I really needed to remove the fender to gain access to that broken extractor.

 

[PabloCruise]

I even took the time today to put away all the tools that I had pulled out over the last week or so. All present and accounted for.

View attachment 3819675


View attachment 3819679


View attachment 3819680

Man, that can be a real chore sometimes when you leave all the tools out.
It always feels good to get the tools back where they belong.
This may be TMI, but I always like to give them a spray with glass cleaner and wipe them clean before they go away.
More insights into the Pablo OCD.

 

[PabloCruise]

Shield or not it's probably age more than anything

It's not the years, it's those miles Bobby!

 

[PabloCruise]

Shortly afterwards I had a pleasant surprise. I drained the brake and clutch masters and disconnected the lines to both. I then pulled the brake master followed by the clutch master. Much to my surprise that released the entire clutch and brake pedal assembly. For some reason I assumed I was going to have to disassemble everything but no, it's held by the bolts that hold those two assemblies and the steering column support bolts (bolts that hold the steering tube support bracket to the dash assembly).

There are a few relays that are attached to this assembly so it's not like you can just pull it out when it drops, unless you have already pulled the wiring harness.

View attachment 3819737

Starting to get real up in there!

 

[PabloCruise]

Speaking of the wiring harness. I started disassembling the pig from the second row seats back and at the end I pulled the rear harness into the rear passenger side of the cargo area, through a wall grommet around the second row seat back on that side, and then up to the passenger kick panel. I couldn't go any further as the A/C system was in the way. However, once that was out there was a large Molex and 3 rather large pin connecters that disconnected the rear harness completely. Those pin connectors look like they are crimped and shrink-wrapped but they do pull apart. Just FYI.

I then methodically stripped the driver's and passenger's inside fender wells of items and ultimately chased every wiring connection on both sides. There aren't that many. Both sides ultimately pull back into the dash area through one grommet on each side and from there the entire front wire harness can be removed. You have to have the A/C out of the way, if you have one. And obviously all the normal stuff like everything behind the dash.

I'm not sure if you can pull the wiring harness without dropping the pedal assembly but mine was out of the way before I tried. I basically had everything removed except for the windshield wiper motor and linkage. There is a mid dash brace which had one bolt holding it to the front of the dash. I removed that bolt and was able to drop, more or less, the entire wiring harness out of the dash. I think you could thread everything over this brace, one way or the other, but it was easy enough to remove the bolt and be done. Felt great to have all the wires out. Pretty sure it won't be so pleasurable putting them back.

Front passenger side rear wiring harness connectors:

View attachment 3819850

Rear wiring harness:

View attachment 3819854

View attachment 3819849

Both harnesses removed:

View attachment 3819855

Wow, you are doing the work!
Thanks for the detailed write-up and pictures.
I am sure those will help the next guy, but it will also help you when it is time to put everything back together.

 

[PabloCruise]

I carefully removed what was left of the firewall silencer pad. It's pretty brittle at this point and IIRC, I already removed a piece or two on the driver's side right after I bought the pig. Has anyone ever made a pattern for one of these? I have a vague recollection of someone having one in decent shape for sale a few years ago. I'll have to do some searching.

I'm thinking it might be nice to recreate this piece in a more modern material, like this 3/8" thick sound and heat insulation:

Luxury Liner Pro™ MLV + Foam Auto Sound Barrier Sheets

Get the best mass loaded vinyl and heat insulation barrier for your car. When used with Second Skin Audio sound deadening, any car can be a luxury vehicle.

www.secondskinaudio.com

View attachment 3820085

That is definitely worth reproducing!

 

[greenbeast]

Wow, you are doing the work!
Thanks for the detailed write-up and pictures.
I am sure those will help the next guy, but it will also help you when it is time to put everything back together.

Hopefully I’m that next guy with the 69 body swap once it’s done. Greg has done great job documenting this for sure.

Once I drop wife off at airport in couple hours I’m sitting in recliner and read over everything I’ve missed.

@WarDamnEagle besides the drill bits @J Mack mentioned for removing broken bolts has there been any additional specific tools you have found will help? I hate having to stop and wait a couple days to get certain tools or parts which goes with territory where we live.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Hopefully I’m that next guy with the 69 body swap once it’s done. Greg has done great job documenting this for sure.

Once I drop wife off at airport in couple hours I’m sitting in recliner and read over everything I’ve missed.

@WarDamnEagle besides the drill bits @J Mack mentioned for removing broken bolts has there been any additional specific tools you have found will help? I hate having to stop and wait a couple days to get certain tools or parts which goes with territory where we live.

Jon, I had a nice set of left hand bits but I did buy a new set of metric bits and a tap and bit set from McMaster Carr. They are pricey but I don't think I would Harbor Freight out on either.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I think you can drill them out from inside the cab. I didn't have the right tools at the time and was more than a little impatient. What I have been doing is drilling a small hole first as dead center as I can get it. Use a very sharp punch and hammer to mark the center before drilling. I will have to confirm but I think I have started out with a 2mm bit and worked my way up to a 5 or maybe a 5.5mm. I have then used a 6mm tap to cut/push the remaining bits of the bolt out.

Unfortunately the screw extractor I was using was from the outside of the panel so I really needed to remove the fender to gain access to that broken extractor.

@jestlurnin I have been starting out with a 3mm followed by a 4mm and stopping with a 5mm. Do not use a cheap tap whatever you do!

Edit: Also use a taper style tap and not a plug or bottoming tap.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Took the passenger side fenders and lower front valence (radiator shroud according to Toyota) off yesterday. Had about the same luck with bolts. Interesting that you can have 7 bolts in a row, all identical and 2 or 3 will shear, more or less without warning, and the others will come out clean. Thankfully with some PB Blaster and vice grips I was able to get them all out from the backside except for 2. I will finish those off soon enough. One of the 2 valence bolts also snapped but it drilled out easily enough.

I also ran into another rubber seal. It's on what Toyota calls a "PLATE, FRONT FENDER SPLASH UPPER SEAL". Two bolts each side and so far only one of the 6mm bolts has come out. Got the others soaking in PB Blaster. At least if these snap off I can deal with the broken bolts in the drill press.

Lastly, I measured the upper fender rubber packing that I referenced in post #739. It's more or less exactly 1" by 34" by 1/8" thick. I would think you would want a fairly hard rubber, probably harder than OEM, since it's sandwiched between two parts with 6 8mm bolts pulling the two parts together. I say harder than OEM because both original pieces are showing significant deformation and creep. Also needs to be weather, mild chemical, and UV resistant. I ordered two of these to try:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

There are other choices if those don't seem suitable when I get them.

Most of these bolts are still available by the way but there are several different sizes and configurations - of course.

 

[J Mack]

It's more or less exactly 1" by 34" by 1/8" thick.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

This is what I use.

 

[onemanarmy]

You could just be like me and put it all back together with just the bolts that didn't break

out of site, out of mind

 

[WarDamnEagle]

You could just be like me and put it all back together with just the bolts that didn't break

out of site, out of mind

lol. Unfortunate for me it's, out of sight, can't sleep.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Here's the two upper fender seal rubber pieces. Roughly a 2x4" piece of rubber folded and glued on the outside corner. Driver's side has come unglued. Appears to be same material as upper fender 1x34" seals.

And I was incorrect about the metal plates; they don't come off so I have two more M6 broken bolts to remove. Successively got all the others out this morning; except of course the one with the broken screw extractor.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Does anyone have any insight as to what floor sound deadener pattern/area was applied to the passenger side, front and rear? Most of my Driver's floor pan, driver's side rear pan, and transmission hump sound deadener is in place but there is nothing front or rear on the passenger side. Not sure if a PO removed it or if there was none from the factory (seems unlikely). It's not just that it's missing, it's more like I can't find any trace of any ever being there.

Maybe the passenger side pans were replaced at one point early on? I say early on because they are obviously rusted through now. If they were replaced it was done with factory parts in a very professional way as I can't tell that they were replaced - of course I wouldn't claim to be an expert on that subject.

Driver's front and rear:

Transmission hump:

Passenger front and rear:

 

[RUSH55]

It appears that my 77 was the same as yours. Barrier material on driver side front and rear as well as the tranny hump. Thinking about it now, must have only been on that side because of the exhaust pipe?
Harder to tell from my pics, but you can make it out.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

It appears that my 77 was the same as yours. Barrier material on driver side front and rear as well as the tranny hump. Thinking about it now, must have only been on that side because of the exhaust pipe?
Harder to tell from my pics, but you can make it out.

View attachment 3827150

View attachment 3827151

Well that would be rather minimalistic of Mr. Toyota but not totally unbelievable. Thanks.

 

[RUSH55]

Well that would be rather minimalistic of Mr. Toyota

That was Mr. T’s company policy

 

[PabloCruise]

Well that would be rather minimalistic of Mr. Toyota but not totally unbelievable. Thanks.

There was no LX-55, the Lexus version of the Pig.
That would have had the sound deadener and insulation on the passenger side.

Plus a sanitary napkin dispenser...