Builds A pig for Father's Day (2 Viewers)

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Took this pic for you Greg, after I noticed it.
The core support on Don’s rig is all black too.
What year is Steve, @Pigeaten ?

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I've been tied up with domestic duties lately and haven't done much. I did take the front doors off and tried a crushed dry ice and isopropyl alcohol mixture to try to get the Dynamat Extreme off. It was very interesting, it seemed to either work incredibly well or not at all. Very little rhyme or reason as far as I could tell but large areas would just sheet off using a scraper and other areas wouldn't budge with a hammer and scraper. I think I will just remove the remainder with a scraper and call it a day.

While the doors were off I saw that each door has a plate underneath (see photos) that I had never noticed before. Toyota calls that a Front (or Rear) Door Weatherstrip Holder. My front passenger one is corroded beyond use but the other three are in pretty good shape. Just one more thing to chase down at some point.

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Finished making the new rubber seals for the upper fender area that I referenced in posts 739 and 751 ("splash guard"). After trying a couple of different materials, I settled on Buna-N Rubber which is most likely what the original material was. I went with 50A Durometer hardness which seems about right but it's obviously difficult with age, embrittlement, etc. to judge the original material. I needed two 1x36 strips for the upper fenders and 1 4x36 strip for the splash guards.

Turned out nice but before you ask; no, I see absolutely no reason to reproduce the upper fender packing the way that I did. You could easily just mark the holes and punch them out slightly oversized and call it a day. There are also many different materials that you could use including the material that Jim posted.

I used 3M #847 adhesive for the corner tuck on the splash guards. So far they seem to be holding well.

Sad when you run out of bench space and have to use a ski platform for a work surface.


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Buna-N Rubber 50A Durometer hardness
Double check the compressed thickness of what you removed..
From memory that was a gasket, 50A durometer Buna-N Rubber is going to be a spacer and could cause other issues.
They look great hope they work!
 
Double check the compressed thickness of what you removed..
From memory that was a gasket, 50A durometer Buna-N Rubber is going to be a spacer and could cause other issues.
They look great hope they work!
Thanks Jim. 50A durometer rubber is on the medium soft/medium line and not what I would consider to be that hard but it's all relative. It's certainly much harder than the EPDM Foam material that you referenced which has a 25% compressibility at 7 psi. A typical garden hose washer is anywhere from 70A to 90A just for perspective. You are absolutely correct though, if it was originally a foam type material then what I used would be way off.

So I had the original material in my hands to study for some time and it's pretty incompressible but quite pliable. I also saw that the inside edge was painted so it certainly wasn't compressed appreciably. Again, I was fairly confident in my material selection but I'm always up for a 5 minute science experiment.

So I took a small ratcheting clamp, measured 1/4" back from the end of the jaws and put the material in with the edge of the material on the 1/4" mark. I then measured the distance between the jaws finger tight and with the jaws as tight as I could make them with both materials. Results are below.

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Here's some of my stash, the bottom ones are the size you posted. If you want one, send me your address and I'll get it going.

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That is beyond gracious. Somebody has a set of 4 on ebay at a reasonable price but they are the longer ones. Were the longer ones for the earlier doors? The part number for my '77 IIRC went from '73 to '80.

PM on the way.
 
I tend to make in-progress notes almost anywhere when I'm fabricating something. Just saw this "note"; so for the sake of completeness, the splash guards are 2 3/8 by 3 3/4. I punched the holes for the metal plates, bolted the plates to the rubber and then did the fold which had to be glued and clamped.

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Took this pic for you Greg, after I noticed it.
The core support on Don’s rig is all black too.
What year is Steve, @Pigeaten ?

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Upon closer inspection today, I'm convinced that a PO did mine with spray paint. The backside is all white except where there's black overspray or drips. The only piece that looks factory black is the top radiator support.

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Upon closer inspection today, I'm convinced that a PO did mine with spray paint. The backside is all white except where there's black overspray or drips. The only piece that looks factory black is the top radiator support
Wondering why all these PO’s thought it was necessary to spray paint the front of the core supports black?🤔

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Wondering why all these PO’s thought it was necessary to spray paint the front of the core supports black?🤔

Good question. Two is coincidence but three is becoming a pattern. Seems quite haphazard for the factory to have done that. Maybe something they did at the port? Maybe they did it if they changed the grill to chrome? Just saying that since mine appears to have an original chrome grill and that could have been a port installed deal. Just a WAG.

I wonder if @cruiserdan has any insight?
 
Wondering why all these PO’s thought it was necessary to spray paint the front of the core supports black?🤔

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Good question. Two is coincidence but three is becoming a pattern. Seems quite haphazard for the factory to have done that. Maybe something they did at the port? Maybe they did it if they changed the grill to chrome? Just saying that since mine appears to have an original chrome grill and that could have been a port installed deal. Just a WAG.

I wonder if @cruiserdan has any insight?

It was done that way at the factory. This is very likely the highest-condition original FJ55 in existence. it has traveled exactly 18,819.8 kilometers. The core support is spray-painted satin black. Note the original grey ND oil filter.
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