Builds A 60 Runs through it… (6 Viewers)

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Even in the heat of summer I’ve never seen it above 180F unless I let it idle and then it would climb up but one of the dual fans would kick on. I’m glad I have electric fans, a mechanical one would not be helping.
It really seems like my Cummins thermostat is stuck open or partially open. Why else would the radiator have heat without getting the water temp getting hot enough to open the t-stat.
 
That's why truckers block the radiator
Okay got all that Tommy. Explain why the radiator is warm to hot with water temps not getting above 140-160F with a 180F t-stat? If it opens at 180F and I’m not getting there with water temp then the radiator shouldn’t have any heat at all.
I relate a lot to water systems. We put in pressure relief valves. They open at a specific pressure to eliminate high pressure. The more pressure the more they open, similar to a t-stat just its temp related.
 
There are bleed holes (jiggle pins) for air in the thermostat that do let a little coolant through even though the thermostat is closed. Plus it's only on the top side of the coolant system that the coolant is stopped/blocked by the thermostat, the bottom side where the pump is circulating coolant gets some mix from the radiator so that mingling will allow the radiator to get some heat.

For some the cummins have been known to run cool. I have found that when you start working them they will heat up so fans are necessary in warm temps but in cold temps they run cooler. Before going down the road of opening your cooling system I would try blocking or diverting the airflow to part of the radiator and gradually increase in blockage until you find your desired temp. Try not to place something directly on the intercooler (first cooler in your cooling row) but in front of it. I'm sure you've noticed the semi's that have those snap on air shields on their grills. You don't want to "seal" off air flow from getting to the cooling row (our temps aren't cold enough for being that aggressive) just some blockage.
 
x2 to @boots4 comments. Diesels just don't make heat like gassers do. My 12 valve will drop from 180ish to sub-140 in those temps if I come to a stop.
 
I’ve got a perfect spot to slip cardboard or plywood down between the intercooler and radiator.
My dodge 24 valve gets up to temp and runs 200F summer and winter.
 
Comparing your FJ60 swap to a factory fitted dodge is not an apples to apples comparison. Your 24V had factory engineers with big budgets working on them to test in many different scenarios to set things up. The 4bt never came in an FJ60 from a factory or many of the other platforms that engine has been swapped into.

You're a wood hobbiest, I'm bet you can make something really nice to work. Maybe even foldable to give you some adjustability.
 
Meet with Cascade Cruisers this morning for their Christmas tree run. Was real nice meeting up with some local MuD members, @boots4, @C6H12O6, @mr jits
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Went up the Clackamas again but instead of Fish Creek we went up above Indian Henry.
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Snow from Thanksgiving weekend started at about 2500’ and got fun around 3300’. About half the snow melted this week at that elevation.
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Found a nice area to park and hang out after everybody got their tree.
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Snowball❄ and Dora
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Clackamas River
It rained pretty good headed into town and as we left. I was really curious how well the RTT kept driving rain out so decided to pop it up at home and it was nice and dry.
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I am good on temp once I make the motor work. At idle it takes a while to get up to temp. I just run the stock gauge but should put in a real temp. I have an electric fan than runs off a temp switch on the top in front as well as the t-stat. I would make sure you don't have your heater or something else by passing something..T-stat is an easy test in a pan on a stove with a thermometer.
 
I’ve always been a fan of Back to the Future.
“Roads... where we’re going, we don’t need roads” on my signature from the second movie.
Today I had a job east of Hood River and spot this,

Sure looks like the Delorian to me.
 
I’ve always been a fan of Back to the Future.
“Roads... where we’re going, we don’t need roads” on my signature from the second movie.
Today I had a job east of Hood River and spot this,

Sure looks like the Delorian to me.

But how fast was it going?
 
Sort of apples and oranges....

my 2000 tdi Jetta in cold weather, 30s and under won’t get to operating temp. I have to block the radiator when it’s really to cold 10 and under to get the temp gauge to even move.
My BJ74 takes longer than my Jetta to warm up, but thankfully aerodynamics of a brick allow it to heat up some on the highway. I haven’t blocked it off yet as the temp gauge still comes up, Justin it quite as high. ( only factory so it’s a vague guess At this point, but the heater lets me know how warm the truck actually is.
inneed to get a better gauge so I know for sure
 
Totally understand my swapped 4BT and Dodge are going to be different.
Haven’t had much cold winter driving experience yet so seeing low water temp concerned me that perhaps my 180F t-stat could be stuck open. I will now block off the radiator when it’s in the 20s and colder. It’s nice having a temp gun now. I think having a skid plate would also help from cold air blowing up from under the 60 as I’ve got a lot of room between the radiator fans and front of motor. There is also a lot of room on the sides of the motor.
 
A skid plate would help. I don’t have the one on my Jetta which is part of the reason it stays so cold. It also has a top cover that helps hold heat in as well.
I need to put the OEM skid on my BJ74 as it will Probabaly helpin the cold weather as well.

cardboard is the cheap test 😁
 
I have modified my stock temp gauge to show actual on my 80 with the Cummins and the needle is in the bottom 1/3 of the gauge. When the thermostat opens (180 degree) the needle is at the 10 o'clock position. Electric fans never turn on in cold weather. They are set to come on at 195.
 

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