99 miles to the new sty! (1 Viewer)

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Question for y'all.

Heater switch works fine now. thanks @Pigeaten ! The valve at the block seems to turn all the way open but the hot water not making it to the rear heater core.

the valve seems to move freely and Ive opened it all the way. Could my thermostat be the issue? Seemed to be getting a bit warmer than normal sitting idling while I was tinkering with the fan/heater. Looking for the least messy way to diagnose... unhook the hose w/ a bucket and hit the key to see if the valve open?

ideas?
 
Pighead pic

IMG_5403.png
 
Seems like you may have a restriction preventing hot water from flowing through the core.
I usually fix this by backflushing both directions using a garden hose until the core flows freely.
I'll give that a shot. The good news is, its easy access right now.
 
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I/m either slow as S*&# at fixing things or this stuff just takes a lot of time. Inching along it seems. Most if the day was spent installing sound dampener on the firewall and kick panels , connected the rear heater and also started removing the tar from inside the doors I can apply dampener in there as well. Next up its moisture barrier and install my new door panels!
The driver front side kick panel was a bit difficult as I had to align align /make holes for the hood release .

sound dampener.jpg
 
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waiting for the Monstaliner to be delivered (tomorrow) I decided to take a peek at the rear heater and fan.

I discovered :

1. The fan works !
2. the core doesn't leak!

Q; What type of oil or grease should I put on the fan spindle?

Thanks!
Lube rated for electric motors.
 
Question for y'all.

Heater switch works fine now. thanks @Pigeaten ! The valve at the block seems to turn all the way open but the hot water not making it to the rear heater core.

the valve seems to move freely and Ive opened it all the way. Could my thermostat be the issue? Seemed to be getting a bit warmer than normal sitting idling while I was tinkering with the fan/heater. Looking for the least messy way to diagnose... unhook the hose w/ a bucket and hit the key to see if the valve open?

ideas?
Have you flow tested the entire loop back to the rear heater?
 
Have you flow tested the entire loop back to the rear heater?
No, and how would I do that? I think the issue is the thermostat. I turned on the front heater when testing and It was also not warm, the temp gauge was a bit higher then normal as well , then suddenly the front and rear heater started to get warm indicating a sticky thermo. I did take the rear heater out and back flush it as suggested.
 
the temp gauge was a bit higher then normal. I turned on the front heater when testing and It was not warm.
If the engine temp was warm but the heater would not warm, that would tell me there’s an issue with the coolant path from the water pump to the heater. If the engine was cool and would not warm to operating temp, then I would suspect the thermostat.
 
If the engine temp was warm but the heater would not warm, that would tell me there’s an issue with the coolant path from the water pump to the heater. If the engine was cool and would not warm to operating temp, then I would suspect the thermostat.
Correct. I have not yet ruled out the valve at the block but, the screw to open the valve moves freely. Maybe I shouldn't assume the valve opens fully then?
 

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