Pigeaten
GOLD Star
Oranges and eggs, the good life
99 miles to the new sty! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tomba
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #362
Question for y'all.
Heater switch works fine now. thanks @Pigeaten ! The valve at the block seems to turn all the way open but the hot water not making it to the rear heater core.
the valve seems to move freely and Ive opened it all the way. Could my thermostat be the issue? Seemed to be getting a bit warmer than normal sitting idling while I was tinkering with the fan/heater. Looking for the least messy way to diagnose... unhook the hose w/ a bucket and hit the key to see if the valve open?
ideas?
Heater switch works fine now. thanks @Pigeaten ! The valve at the block seems to turn all the way open but the hot water not making it to the rear heater core.
the valve seems to move freely and Ive opened it all the way. Could my thermostat be the issue? Seemed to be getting a bit warmer than normal sitting idling while I was tinkering with the fan/heater. Looking for the least messy way to diagnose... unhook the hose w/ a bucket and hit the key to see if the valve open?
ideas?
Pighead pic
- Thread starter
- #364
Thanks! I saw that ,looks like its not metric. maybe pighead re- tapped with 1/2" ?
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Seems like you may have a restriction preventing hot water from flowing through the core.
I usually fix this by backflushing both directions using a garden hose until the core flows freely.
I usually fix this by backflushing both directions using a garden hose until the core flows freely.
- Thread starter
- #366
I'll give that a shot. The good news is, its easy access right now.
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- Thread starter
- #367
I/m either slow as S*&# at fixing things or this stuff just takes a lot of time. Inching along it seems. Most if the day was spent installing sound dampener on the firewall and kick panels , connected the rear heater and also started removing the tar from inside the doors I can apply dampener in there as well. Next up its moisture barrier and install my new door panels!
The driver front side kick panel was a bit difficult as I had to align align /make holes for the hood release .
The driver front side kick panel was a bit difficult as I had to align align /make holes for the hood release .
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Pigeaten
GOLD Star
You can do it!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Lube rated for electric motors.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Have you flow tested the entire loop back to the rear heater?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #372
No, and how would I do that? I think the issue is the thermostat. I turned on the front heater when testing and It was also not warm, the temp gauge was a bit higher then normal as well , then suddenly the front and rear heater started to get warm indicating a sticky thermo. I did take the rear heater out and back flush it as suggested.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
If the engine temp was warm but the heater would not warm, that would tell me there’s an issue with the coolant path from the water pump to the heater. If the engine was cool and would not warm to operating temp, then I would suspect the thermostat.
- Thread starter
- #374
Correct. I have not yet ruled out the valve at the block but, the screw to open the valve moves freely. Maybe I shouldn't assume the valve opens fully then?
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Yeah, make sure that valve is working and isn’t full of junk
- Thread starter
- #376
What type of rubber seal adhesive are you guys using for the rear window and doors?
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
3m black 
- Thread starter
- #379
Back on it this weekend. Stuck in sound deadener, crash wrap moisture barrier and the 1st new door panel on. in addition I started installing the body side door rubber . Looks good but now the door is a bit too tight now 
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Just SLAM da MOFO 
