8x Series V8 Swaps (5 Viewers)

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I've always been interested in how much weight savings, if any, will be had with an engine swap. Searching online can result in a wide spread of numbers, how factual they are is anybodies guess. I've been slowly putting together an LQ4/4L80 and have been dragging my feet until recently when the ol 1FZ decided to blow it's headgasket. So with the engine pulled, I bought a scale and got some numbers...

Fluids were drained from the toyota drivetrain and all accessories on both engines, I tried to keep things as scientific as possible. So if my math is correct, looks like i should have a savings of around 106 lbs!!

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I've always been interested in how much weight savings, if any, will be had with an engine swap. Searching online can result in a wide spread of numbers, how factual they are is anybodies guess. I've been slowly putting together an LQ4/4L80 and have been dragging my feet until recently when the ol 1FZ decided to blow it's headgasket. So with the engine pulled, I bought a scale and got some numbers...

Fluids were drained from the toyota drivetrain and all accessories on both engines, I tried to keep things as scientific as possible. So if my math is correct, looks like i should have a savings of around 106 lbs!!

Which transmission are you taking out/measuring?
 
@DavidinAZ, I hope you have better luck with that intake manifold than I did, see post #945.
 
I've always been interested in how much weight savings, if any, will be had with an engine swap. Searching online can result in a wide spread of numbers, how factual they are is anybodies guess. I've been slowly putting together an LQ4/4L80 and have been dragging my feet until recently when the ol 1FZ decided to blow it's headgasket. So with the engine pulled, I bought a scale and got some numbers...

Fluids were drained from the toyota drivetrain and all accessories on both engines, I tried to keep things as scientific as possible. So if my math is correct, looks like i should have a savings of around 106 lbs!!

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Oh that's cool. I totally don't need one of those scales, but I'll be ordering one soon lol
 
The vast majority of these LS swaps are using the GM transmission as well. It appears Marks makes a convenient adapter to retain the LC four speed. Why is the GM transmission used almost universally? I read where someone stated the A442 "just doesn't shift that well" in this configuration. Can anyone explain that? Would the A343 in a 96 be any different? Anyone out there kept the LC transmission? Please point me to a thread as I have missed it.

Thank,
 
Shift points, torque rating (esp the 343) cost/availability of spares, standalone controller for 343/442 is EXTREMELY expensive, etc

Also if you need an adapter at all (engine to transmission) why not put the adapter behind a transmission built to work with the engine, for which you already have built-in control.

The only advantage I see is not having to reconfigure the shifter and shift pattern indicator lights.

In this case people aren't doing it because it isn't the best option.
 
FINALLY have a little time to finish my cruise switch mods.

Note that AFAIK this will only work on BCM-equipped swaps.. though the same concept could be applied to other common 2-wire "resistor ladder" cruise control control circuits.

First, a pic of the original toyota FZJ80 cruise switch guts. This isn't exactly easy to remove, but patience and a jewelers screwdriver or three can get it done.

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I forgot to get a detailed pic of the back of it, but everything is labeled on the circuit board.

Basically, I replaced the three resistors with ones of other values, added another into the circuit with the white/black wire, and moved a couple wires around on the circuit board and while I haven't verified function in-vehicle, I have Ohmed it out and it should work just like the GM cruise switch, with one caveat.. there isn't an elegant way to turn the whole cruise system off, along with no light to show that it is on. You can still pull cancel, or hit the brake to cancel.. but basically this system will be on any time the vehicle ignition is on, as though the on/off switch on the GM cruise switch were always pressed on.

Anyway, this is the finished product

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All resistors are 1/4 watt units sourced from mouser. Cheap.

desolder all wires and resistors from the unit
Replace the toyota 68ohm with a 3.01k
replace 130ohm with 1.47k
replace 220ohm with 825ohm.. before finishing this one see the note later about the white/black wire
Add a 1.5k resistor in-line with the white-black wire.. I did this inside the brown rubber shield shown in the pic above
solder the red wire to the old location of the white/black wire. This is labeled WB on the board
solder the white/black wire to the board ALONG WITH the "free" end of the diagonal resistor (the 825ohm). Free meaning it sticks out away from the other dual-terminal solder joints.
Add a jumper from the old red-wire location (marked R on board) to the new location (WB) (having red in the old location would also work, but for me this worked better for packaging and technically puts the red wire on the "more important" terminal to get the functions of the switch working)
the plain-white wire that used to go from the board to the end of the cruise stalk is not used.. push it back into the brown rubber sheath.

Some of you might ask why not use the existing cruise on-off button to control the GM unit.. on the toyota it is a momentary switch that completes a second circuit to the cruise computer to tell it on or off. For GM a latching switch is used and it basically opens or closes the single cruise circuit including resistor ladder. I don't see a way to make the toyota on/off switch hold the position.. maybe someone else can?

Either way.. I'll be installing this and finishing up the BCM door and reverse light wires soon.. will post with feedback if it does/doesn't work.

That and a couple more things and it'll be ready to sell..
 
Some of you might ask why not use the existing cruise on-off button to control the GM unit.. on the toyota it is a momentary switch that completes a second circuit to the cruise computer to tell it on or off. For GM a latching switch is used and it basically opens or closes the single cruise circuit including resistor ladder. I don't see a way to make the toyota on/off switch hold the position.. maybe someone else can?

You could use a latching relay with the Toyota momentary switch to do that job, if you wanted. What is Latching Relay? | FAQ | Singapore | Omron IA
 
You could use a latching relay with the Toyota momentary switch to do that job, if you wanted. What is Latching Relay? | FAQ | Singapore | Omron IA

This might work.. it'd be a little complicated as the toyota system has three wires, of which I'm only using two.. after my resistor change the common wire would be +12v and for the latching relay control you'd need to find and cut a splice to ground in the circuit between the steering wheel and the chassis (the third wire is a ground), then take this wire to the BCM.

I'm a little OCD but not enough to have a problem just leaving the cruise system on all the time.
 
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That's actually an easy one to do. Just haven't got around to it. Need to put in a switch in parallel with the low range transfer case switch so it thinks it's in 4lo
 
Another small update on the cruise project.. IT WORKS. Just tested all functions on the toyota cruise stalk to GM BCM and other than the on-off switch as outlined above all works as expected.

The one glitch I am calling a loss is the 10-minute timer on the GM unit called "retained accessory power".

Basically if you shut off the ignition you have to wait 10 minutes before starting again or the cruise will not work for that ignition cycle. On the GM unit it looks for the driver door opening to kill the RAP, and I just figured out there is no simple wire going to the BCM to signal driver door open. on the escalade there is a "door control module" that actually has the driver door ajar switch, and this communicates with the BCM via the low-speed bus. Not having a door control module, I can't do this by the book. I did try wiring up one of the rear door ajar switches on the BCM to see if that was enough but it didnt work.

So one compromise here with my implementation of the BCM is needing to wait 10 minutes after ignition off to restart if you need cruise that next time. I've taken one roadtrip in this thing since wiring up cruise and it is somewhat annoying but workable. If stopping for fuel either don't shut it off or make sure you need to go inside for a drink/snack/pit stop, and take 10 minutes. Not spending $400 for an extra module, and having native cruise using the toyota stalk is worth the trouble to me though.


That's actually an easy one to do. Just haven't got around to it. Need to put in a switch in parallel with the low range transfer case switch so it thinks it's in 4lo

Should be easier than that if you are already part-time.. mine has pin7 mod. All I have to do is lock the center diff and can then lock the rear axle. Obviously leave one or both front hubs disengaged. I just went out and tested this.. works fine.

I'd also make sure the rear diff lock is fully engaged before attempting a burnout.. with that much traction I could see maybe twisting the splines if it is shock loaded by it engaging while already turning one wheel.
 
I didn't go with manual hubs. I did the 7 pin mod so 4wd is fully controlled with my dash switch. The lockers just won't lock unless the 4lo switch is kicked in. My center diff lock light doesn't come on in the dash when I press the center diff lock button, only cpme on when I go into 4lo but doesn't turn the center diff lock on.
 

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