What has anyone done for the tap shift or TUTD switch if using the 6L90E ? I need to hook mine up and have not found a good solution or switch to install in the factory shifter yet. Post a pic or partnumber if you can. I am also considering something on the steering wheel if possible
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (15 Viewers)
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Contact Jim at Zero Gravity. He will answer your questions.
bloc
SILVER Star
My resistor ladder solution doesn't apply as well to someone not using the BCM but the switch position could.. I put two momentary pushbutton switches in one of the switch blanks on the left side of the console pocket.. right where my right hand would rest. In practice it has worked great, even if the switches could be replaced with something that looks a little better.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
So I've finally got my 5.3 swap all bolted in and the modified (by me) GM wire harness /fuse box built and installed on the engine. Have all the pink wires (key on power) going to relays. What wire from the toyota has everyone been using to trigger relays and such for the engine?
Thanks to @rockrod’s chart I’ve got the Toyota harness stripped down to just the heavy gauge black/white stripe, the heavy gauge yellow/red stripe that goes to the fuse box, the t-case stuff, and water temp wire.
I plan on having the fuel pump wired stand-alone and it’s relay controlled by the wire from the GM PCM.
Thanks to @rockrod’s chart I’ve got the Toyota harness stripped down to just the heavy gauge black/white stripe, the heavy gauge yellow/red stripe that goes to the fuse box, the t-case stuff, and water temp wire.
I plan on having the fuel pump wired stand-alone and it’s relay controlled by the wire from the GM PCM.
I used the coil power wire for ignition switched
Black/red I think?
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Thanks. I just realized I had a wire bundled up and it is still under the dash. Black/blue. I took a break from the project and lost some of my mental notes.
Looking good cable dude! May I ask where that inlet boot (elbow) came from?
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Thanks!
They call it a “Cobra Head” elbow. After a lot of searching I only found 2 that were 4” inlet/outlet. The one I got was cheap, very heavy duty rubber, and in the US:
Intake Hoses, IntakeTubing, and Intake Clamps - Intakehoses.com: Cobra Head Elbows
Pic:
The other one was maybe bit prettier, but over $100 and in Sweden
:Cobra head 4
Pic:
I’ve been dead set on keeping the mechanical fan AND the stock air box and this was my only solution with the location the motor landed in. Not sure why, but the engine seems to be sitting a bit more forward than most for some reason. Plenty of clearance at the firewall. Gen 3 engine, 4l60e, Marks adapter, mounted to IPOR crossmember.
Had some fun the other day
looks like you r moving way faster than me
i just put engine back after full rebuild
my engine is sitting forward way more than what i se in other pictures maybe adapter was redesign
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
The frame is from an 80, does that count? Getting an LS3 Connect & Cruise package.
That’s awesome.The frame is from an 80, does that count? Getting an LS3 Connect & Cruise package.
dubyahard
SILVER Star
Looks good. Do you have a thread for your swap?Thanks!
They call it a “Cobra Head” elbow. After a lot of searching I only found 2 that were 4” inlet/outlet. The one I got was cheap, very heavy duty rubber, and in the US:
Intake Hoses, IntakeTubing, and Intake Clamps - Intakehoses.com: Cobra Head Elbows
Pic:
View attachment 1596083
The other one was maybe bit prettier, but over $100 and in Sweden
Cobra head 4
Pic:
View attachment 1596084
I’ve been dead set on keeping the mechanical fan AND the stock air box and this was my only solution with the location the motor landed in. Not sure why, but the engine seems to be sitting a bit more forward than most for some reason. Plenty of clearance at the firewall. Gen 3 engine, 4l60e, Marks adapter, mounted to IPOR crossmember.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
No thread. I've never been good about documenting projects.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
So those of you that have kept the factory radiator, what did you do/use for your lower hose? I have figured a couple different ways to do it, but if anyone knows a hose that fits decent with the normal passenger side facing water neck on the pump, I'd like to go that route.
Right now I'm thinking of using a swivel style water neck facing down, the factory 1fz aluminum 90 elbow, and two short sections of hose to join to the rad side and the thermostat side. I think oit would work fine, but a single hose would be more ideal (and cheaper) I snap pics of my idea this evening.
Thanks.
Right now I'm thinking of using a swivel style water neck facing down, the factory 1fz aluminum 90 elbow, and two short sections of hose to join to the rad side and the thermostat side. I think oit would work fine, but a single hose would be more ideal (and cheaper) I snap pics of my idea this evening.
Thanks.
I used the original 1fz lower rad hose cut and turned with a brass barbed coupling
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Interesting! So the brass coupling in place of the 1fz aluminum 90, and the hoses trimmed and turned to suit?
Izf aluminum 90? I just used the lower hose itself from the rad to the LS water pump with the barbed coupling in the middle of it. I did the same thing with the upper hosing using the gm truck upper rad hose. I wanted to make sure parts like that would be easy to get at any parts store.
I used this style hose clamp because the sizes were slightly off.
