Builds 75 Series Truck - VZ shade tree special (3 Viewers)

[2fpower]

went to start putting everything back together and realized I never put the new seals in the transfer case. The staked nut was in there amazingly strong. Pretty sure they used red Loctite, as I had to apply a little bit of heat.

Here is before.... looks pretty bad....

and after on the front seal...

Here is the rear output. pretty dirty too.

and after...

 

[2fpower]

The output shaft front bearing looks like it could use a replacement, part number in Books says 90363- 40044 .... toyota says superseded to 90363-40083

I cannot read the part number on the bearing.

either one will take over a week to get here, anyone happen to know a koyo or timken part number? @Onur

 

[2fpower]

What a disappointing afternoon... transfer case is still in parts waiting on a bearing, clutch could not be installed because I forgot to buy the pilot bearing.... So engine can’t be bolted up to the transmission.... thus no engine install this weekend. Got the fly wheel on at least. Engine injectors are still off getting cleaned, so don't have those to get the wiring harness finished up on the engine....

Guess this weekend will be stripping back the engine harness and I can work on the gas tank. I need to cut a hole and weld the gas tank flange from the 80 onto this 70 tank. That big spot in the middle looks perfect spot.

here is the donor 80 fuel pump and gauge.

 

[2fpower]

Tore apart my parts Lexus and got the dash harness out yesterday, looks pretty overwhelming..... all the yellow tape is reference to what it went to in the green tape is ground points

Also got the 80 Series fuel tank and cut out the pump and level sensor section.... it still had about a pint of gasoline in it, so dumped it out, then shoved the garden hose into it, filled it up and then cut it...

 

[Gun Runner 5]

Even in my wildest dreams, I can't imagine how bad I could screw that up.

 

[2fpower]

Well I let that wiring project fester in my brain.... started working on the gas tank. Since the pick up is a little thicker than the original 75 series I wanted to let it recess down about a half inch. shop hints. To be able to beat and shape this metal and not deform the opening, I first needed to make a 3/16 solid steel plate with holes to bolt to the factory flange. I found the best way to do this is by using a copy machine to make a paper image of it..... Take that image and make your new plate with holes in the right location without having to think very much..

Here is the plate bolted up to the factory 80 tank. I made some relief cuts where I had to beat it and inverse the section.

And a few minutes with a body hammer and you have this.

Then clamp it down and weld in those relief cuts.

 

[2fpower]

Then the scary part of cutting into a tank and getting the 80 series part to fit. I knew this tank was cleaned and lined with the red junk, but always scary cutting into a fuel tank.... I left the solid filler panel on as long as possible as welding and heating tends to distort metal.

I should mention that under the truck there is a parking cable going through this section, but it looked like I could move it slightly if needed. I really had no other spot to put this big of a thing in the deep section of the tank, so here it sits. There was a baffle in the way, so I did have a slight modification to that, pushing it away from my work area.

Here is the final cut fitment before welding.

First I tacked it in good, then came back and filled in between.

Unfortunately, I could not find a good setting on my welder, so I had to do a lot of small welds... nice penetration, but ripe for pinholes.

 

[2fpower]

And realized I didn’t have the right clutch alignment tool so checked up an old Chevy one and sanded it down to fit. The bearing side was perfect.

 

[OGBeno]

Necessity is the mother of all invention.

 

[c2dfj45]

Seeing that harness all laid out made me cringe. What a job. So many things to consider. We're making some changes to my 1FZFE truck and getting back into the harness is a pain in the ass. It's so tight in that dash...no room to move stuff, no space to put stuff. The amount of wire you'll pull out of that harness will be shocking.....

 

[whitey45]

An option on the bed shortening, You can run Chevy 63” springs and get the wheelbase you need to match the later bed. I did this on a 45 Ute and gained 8” of wheelbase. Plus the 63” springs flex for killer articulation on the trail! Just an option to save 10 hours of drilling!! Great build, been watching from the start.

 

[2fpower]

An option on the bed shortening, You can run Chevy 63” springs and get the wheelbase you need to match the later bed. I did this on a 45 Ute and gained 8” of wheelbase. Plus the 63” springs flex for killer articulation on the trail! Just an option to save 10 hours of drilling!! Great build, been watching from the start.

great idea; however, i have streatched my son's 80 and know that with that comes additional work also in the driveshaft, brake lines, e-brake cable (which was a huge pain).... Since I need to paint the bed anyway, drilling makes sense.

 

[2fpower]

Even in my wildest dreams, I can't imagine how bad I could screw that up. View attachment 2151860

I forgot to pull the line back to the fuel pump, so went back and grabbed that yesteday..... This may sound wierd, but i am so excited to get this engine in and running, so I can dissect this harness.

@c2dfj45 you have warned me a couple times about finding room to fit the wires in the dash.... been thinking about this quite a bit. What would you think about adding a box to the firewall on the engine side and cut it open to the passenger compartment for the computers? 3M body panel adhesive to seal it up nice.

 

[c2dfj45]

I forgot to pull the line back to the fuel pump, so went back and grabbed that yesteday..... This may sound wierd, but i am so excited to get this engine in and running, so I can dissect this harness.

@c2dfj45 you have warned me a couple times about finding room to fit the wires in the dash.... been thinking about this quite a bit. What would you think about adding a box to the firewall on the engine side and cut it open to the passenger compartment for the computers? 3M body panel adhesive to seal it up nice.

You can get that ECU up under the dash(mine is above the glove box as I recall. It's just tough to access should you need to. Not sure about cutting into the firewall and all that. On the new cars we work on they have really cool sealed ECU boxes that computers go in. That might be good....maybe sit it where a secondary battery would go(by the wiper motor....passenger corner). That would help out with that mess. I ended up running a lot of stuff....cruise control, auto trans, wiper stuff, AC, etc. I bet if you strip that harness down really far and aren't running all the junk I did, you might get away with it not being horrible behind the dash....we had too much.

The guy who did my harness was a bit scattered and not always the most organized. I'm not so sure he didn't have a few things in there that could have been yanked out. The way my current guy wires stuff is like art....it's very very organized, very well laid out.

And if I had to do it all over again, I'd use a mechless double din radio so I had room behind the stereo. We used a conventional double din and it was a pain in the ass with all of the wires for it. The mechless ones add a lot of room since there isn't really anything in the radio.

Looking forward to see how the wiring goes for you...

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I forgot to pull the line back to the fuel pump, so went back and grabbed that yesteday..... This may sound wierd, but i am so excited to get this engine in and running, so I can dissect this harness.

@c2dfj45 you have warned me a couple times about finding room to fit the wires in the dash.... been thinking about this quite a bit. What would you think about adding a box to the firewall on the engine side and cut it open to the passenger compartment for the computers? 3M body panel adhesive to seal it up nice.

I was able to mount the CDL and locker ECUs above the glove box. There are two or three places to bolt them in. You just may need to cut and weld the mounting tabs to face them the way you want.

 

[2fpower]

You can get that ECU up under the dash(mine is above the glove box as I recall. It's just tough to access should you need to. Not sure about cutting into the firewall and all that. On the new cars we work on they have really cool sealed ECU boxes that computers go in. That might be good....maybe sit it where a secondary battery would go(by the wiper motor....passenger corner). That would help out with that mess. I ended up running a lot of stuff....cruise control, auto trans, wiper stuff, AC, etc. I bet if you strip that harness down really far and aren't running all the junk I did, you might get away with it not being horrible behind the dash....we had too much.

The guy who did my harness was a bit scattered and not always the most organized. I'm not so sure he didn't have a few things in there that could have been yanked out. The way my current guy wires stuff is like art....it's very very organized, very well laid out.

And if I had to do it all over again, I'd use a mechless double din radio so I had room behind the stereo. We used a conventional double din and it was a pain in the ass with all of the wires for it. The mechless ones add a lot of room since there isn't really anything in the radio.

Looking forward to see how the wiring goes for you...

Thanks for the encouragement.... we shall see, and yes, I am stripping this down to the bone.

I am still waiting for a decent head unit that has a remote touchscreen for my 40 series. Absolutely no room behind the dash with the aftermarket blower... Been tempted by that fosgate unit, but really like appleplay on the new units....

 

[Broski]

Just read you hole thread. love it really nice work.

 

[Honger]

Continuing to love watching you make lemonade out of this truck...

 

[2fpower]

Parts.... yeah. Dubai to Kc in 3 days.

 

[c2dfj45]

Thanks for the encouragement.... we shall see, and yes, I am stripping this down to the bone.

I am still waiting for a decent head unit that has a remote touchscreen for my 40 series. Absolutely no room behind the dash with the aftermarket blower... Been tempted by that fosgate unit, but really like appleplay on the new units....

We have a 40 in the shop that had a surface mounted JL Marine unit installed. It's pretty cool for a 40....clean. You could always do a stereo in a console box. We do those on D90s and they seem pretty good.