Builds 75 Series Truck - VZ shade tree special

2fpower

 
Joined
Sep 5, 2007
Messages
9,836
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lenexa, ks
Many of you saw this 75 series truck on ebay, then sold only to find a long list of issues with it here on MUD. I decided to take the plunge into the 70 series world because I want to teach my kids to drive a stick before they are off to college, and what better to do this in than a Toyota landcruiser.

With that said, lets start with information from before I purchsed it...... looks shiny and nice from the outside.


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The purchaser of the rig had it shipped it to a shop (non- land cruiser) and this is what they said:

  • Engine is crooked in bay. Needs new mounts.
  • No heater
  • Engine is pouring oil out because freeze plug popped out. Engine does run.
  • Driveshafts are loose
  • Axle hubs need to be rebuilt. Rear axle seems fine.
  • Truck having trouble staying in 1st gear.
  • no windshield wipers (totally over rated anyway)
  • Gas tank leaking (was braised, but a totally s*** job)
Here’s the good:

  • Frame solid and rust free. See photos/videos.
  • Body is straight and in fantastic shape. There is bodywork. Also a few minor dings/scratches and whatnot. No biggie
  • Paint looks really good with a few blemishes here and there.
  • New wheels and tires are awesome
  • Crazy unique
  • Interior pretty good!
  • Replacement parts in the original listing seem to be accurate.
Shop is saying it's all repairable, but quotes to have this all done by a shop are too high for me to continue.

additional pics and vids: HERE



Original description from the auction (if ebay pulls it):

1993 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER SERIE 75
condition: excellent
cylinders: 6 cylinders 4500 carburetor
drive: 4wd
fuel: gas
odometer: 94000
paint color: Blue
title status: clean
transmission: manual
type: pick up

I have this 1993 Toyota FJ 75 pick up well as everything else is in perfect conditions. The car has a 1FZ 4500 motor, manual transmission H151F, the front bumper has 2 headlights. The car is refurbished is all aspects. The upholstery is in perfect conditions, the seats. It has so many other great features, come by and see it for your self.

-NEW Tires 285/70R17
-New wheels Toyota
-Front Inti bumper
-headlight Led
-led lights
-New Belts (all 3) from Toyota
-Snorkel
-Auto Dimming Rear View Mirror with Compass, Outside temp
-New DieHard 825 CCA Battery Group 27 from Sears Dec2017
-old man emu 2' inch
-work in the differential the suspension SOA
-2 year old Drive Shaft Couplings
-New Tie Rod Ends Front (All 4)
-Steering Shaft Seal Replaced (No Hot Foot)
-1 Year ago Old Man Emu Steering Dampener
-UltraGause to OBDII for MPG, Distence to Empty
-Washable Factory (Toyota) Air Filter
-No Factory Lockers
-Front Axle seals/bearings/wipers serviced with TrailGear kit including Trail Safe Seals.
-New Brakes - drilled Rotors/ceramic pads

The Engine 4.5 Carburetor IL6, Transmission, AC Works Flawlessly


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2fpower

 
Joined
Sep 5, 2007
Messages
9,836
Location
lenexa, ks
So, what is my plan????

1. go over everything, tear it down and make this a runner.
2. tear off the bed and put on a 79 series bed that I have had for several years in my basement. This 75 series bed has been diamond plated and beat to heck, so I plan to salvage the side, front and rear and use for my 45 project someday.

Things I need to find that I have not been able to determine yet. (already have two orders from PartsOUQ).

1. wiper arms. Not available from toyota anymore. Is there another replacement?
2. Heater core. Not sure yet if the heater box has a spot for the core or if I need everything. The rig has A/C (untested) and it appears to be an aftermarket conversion.
3. seal at top of windshield to roof.

I drove to DC from Kansas City with a trailer and picked it up about mid April of 2019, drove it home and parked it in the garage. Knowing that a freeze plug was out, I started it and ran it just enough to get it on and off the trailer.
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No water ever came out of it, but plenty of engine oil came out!!! If you ran it for 30 seconds, this is what the floor would look like overnight.
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2fpower

 
Joined
Sep 5, 2007
Messages
9,836
Location
lenexa, ks
Oh, how many things are wrong here??? Three bolts and one stud it appeared. Only two cone washers and what appeared to be the correct stud was actually a lug nut on the incorrect pitch stud.
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Her you can see the copper brake line (ahhhhhh!) and the crazy fiber mess used to keep the knuckle dry. Also note the cracked flex line for brakes and the least of my concern, the unmounted flex/hard brake line.
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Another pic of the lower bolts from the passenger side, more incorrect bolts/studs on bottom. Also missing 3 of the 6 bolts holding the rear gasket/seal on. Stuff like that I was expecting... a few wrong bolts here and there... and I found lots of it.

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Sorry for being out of order, here is example of missing bolts on the driveshaft. also 3 of the four U joints are binding up, so will replace with MOOG parts.
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Here is front axle driveshaft flange, none of the bolts were stock. I will give them credit they were tightish.
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2fpower

 
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Sep 5, 2007
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lenexa, ks
Here is the collection of bolts on the rear driveshaft at the diff. Of the three bolts, one is stock factory item. notice all different sizes and threads, which made me start to grab another wrenceh, then I realized that they were less than hand tight - no wrench needed. Note the two short ones only had a nut on about 3 revolutions.

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Here is the passenger side hub.... ouch. notice someone welded and ground down the front to make the bearing surface work..... Going to have to replace this side. Appears these are the same as 70 series, so should have one in the parts barn.
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Here is the p
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Both sides appeared to have new grease in them. However, back on the Passenger side, I kept feeling chunks as I took it apart, and then I realized that the trunnion bearing must have blown up at some time, and they never cleaned out the parts.
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Here are the four bolts out of the top passenger side..... 2 cone washers and one lug nut.
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2fpower

 
Joined
Sep 5, 2007
Messages
9,836
Location
lenexa, ks
The bad news of the day was when I pulled the oil plug for the front diff and nothing came out.... uh oh.

Well, here is what I found. Going to need a full rebuild as the bearings are shot. I don't see any damage to the teeth, so hoping to be able to rebuild it. Lots of cleaning to come on this and the housing.


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2fpower

 
Joined
Sep 5, 2007
Messages
9,836
Location
lenexa, ks
Tried to chase down the oil leak on the engine, and it is coming from above the pan, so......

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Hard to tell with the motor mount in the way, however, I think it is coming from the oil cooler on the side of the engine. Knowing how these 1fz always seep oil, I will likely go ahead and pull the pans and replace the seals. Only question is if the rear main is leaking.
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Here is a pic of the driver side of the engine, missing a freeze plug. I plan to pop one in and then add water and pressurize the system. Hoping that the head gasket is not blown. Cross your fingers! You can't see in this picture; however the driver side motor mount is a block of rubber with a bolt all the way through it. I have new mounts to install on both sides already.
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from under the intake there is a barb fitting that I will need to figure out where it is supposed to connect to.
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2fpower

 
Joined
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Location
lenexa, ks
More random issues. Fuel line appears crimped at the tank against the frame. will have to pull the tank to try and repair the leaking section anyway, so will get this taken care of.
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Brake line crimped and stopped. This appears to have gone to the rear lspv that is disabled. Not a big fan of them anyway, so I will put a union fitting here instead of a three way.
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Catch can is missing at the air filter.
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Here is one of the hand tight driveshaft bolts.

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And the LSPV...... goodbye old friend.
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2fpower

 
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lenexa, ks
Shocks are pretty yellow, but appear blown in the rear, and missing all bushings.
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Soft Brake lines might need replacing.
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E brakes look like 80 series style, but these are not operational.
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Oh, another thing on the front axle teardown, Someone got really mad putting in the race and gouged the heck out of the sides... I cleaned it up with some drum sanding.
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2fpower

 
Joined
Sep 5, 2007
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lenexa, ks
Hard to see here; however the exhaust id heavily crushed at the top section of this photo as it goes over the frame. I will likely do mandrel bent stainless and replace it all.
ed 10
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roscoFJ73

 
 
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Location
Perth Western Australia
Welcome to the world of the 7* series. Your introduction is a real baptism of fire.
If you have discovered all the faults and can do much of the work yourself, you may end up with a really nice Landcruiser. The great thing about the 75 series is they are highly rebuildable and most parts are still available. There are also many parts on NA landcruisers that can be used.
 
Joined
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Utah
That front hub hackjob is wild stuff.

A couple weekends of work and it'll be good as new. Most look fairly easy to fix, aside from the hub and diff. If you can turn a wrench (looks like you can), you got a decent deal.
 

JuanJ

 
Joined
May 16, 2008
Messages
1,224
Hello,

Welcome to the madness.

The oak dash gives it away as a Venezuela-assembled 75. Interesting fact: down there, these trucks are used (perhaps to this day) in mining and jungle towns to carry supplies. With the nearest part dealer hundreds of kilometers away, parts are scarce and mechanics improvise a lot.

This example looks like it worked hard in its previous life.

As mentioned above, 75 Series can be rebuilt.

Looking forward to see your build.





Juan
 

2fpower

 
Joined
Sep 5, 2007
Messages
9,836
Location
lenexa, ks
Oh... you bought this rig. :lol: Awesome. I expect a full s*** show build on this one!!

:)
Yeah, finally got my first 70 series. Broke the cherry. Be easy on me..... I will need some advice and always appreciate your help.

Welcome to the world of the 7* series. Your introduction is a real baptism of fire.
If you have discovered all the faults and can do much of the work yourself, you may end up with a really nice Landcruiser. The great thing about the 75 series is they are highly rebuildable and most parts are still available. There are also many parts on NA landcruisers that can be used.
Not to worry, I am a very detailed guy and believe in doing things right the first time, so this is almost fun for me to find all the crazy shade tree work done on it.

We've seen worse on this forum.
Is the handbrake missing?
I have the handbrake in the cab between the front seats. There is also the cable running down to the rear axle. There is not the center piece, nor cable running to each side. I am hoping I can make an 80 series cable work.
 

2fpower

 
Joined
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lenexa, ks
On the last 40 series I built, I got these two non matching hubs..... on this 70 series I had another non-matching pair. Who would’ve thought that I’d end up with four different styles!!!!
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Luckily, I went down to my parts barn and found a set from a 60 series
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2fpower

 
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lenexa, ks
First course of order was to clean up the axle, lots of hand scrubbing and wire brushes attach to paint sticks to get down the tubes. Finished it off with a broom handle with a rag stapled to it soaked and paint thinner.
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2fpower

 
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as I said above, I grabbed a 60 series outer from my parts barn and tore it down to get the Spindle. However, before I did that I cleaned up the outer balls and realized there’s actually a slight indentation..... I’m used to on 80 series and 40 series them being quite round. Both sides are this way, so is this just wear or is this standard on a 70?
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The spindles seem identical ... 60 series on the left 70 series on the right
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2fpower

 
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Because the passenger side top of the hub clearly has seen some Warzone Activity, decided to swap it with the 60 series. While I was checking all the dimensions, I realized they’re at a different angle. Roughly 2.2° difference in the outer housing. Is this true, that you can’t swap 60s for 70s?
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