Builds 75 Series Truck - VZ shade tree special

[SNLC]

I have seen FI 1FZ in 1998 73's, that is the earliest I have seen.

Cheers

 

[2fpower]

I forgot to take a picture of it however extended the 80 Series fuel pump because the 75 series tank is about 2 1/2 inch deeper... also got the filler panel completed. I made it out of stainless. Tank is ready to go In.

 

[2fpower]

Had a good day yesterday getting the fuel tank in transfer case and starter power steering air-conditioning throttlebody, fluids, basically everything related to the engine. Finish the day by getting the wiring harness all connected together.

 

[2fpower]

Today is moving forward, but need help with wiring. Figured out how to jumper for the neutral safety switch, and the engine was able to turn over but no power going to the fuel pump. No switched power going to the fuel pump relay I think. Only have 12 V at the corner shown in the picture. EDIT... realized later that there will be no power to the pump unless the engine is turning over, so this was incorrect test.

The key thing here is the check engine light is on. If that is on, then many things are getting power, including the fuel pump relay.

 

[2fpower]

Well she starts.

Chased wires for an hour or so, finally figured out fuel pump was getting voltage --but was not running... Note: I forgot that it only gets power once the crankshaft position sensor senses the car is running.

Was getting ready to drop the tank when I realized that the tank itself was not grounded. Yes, there is two groud wires going to the pump, but decided in a last ditch effort to do that. That was it!



Now the issue is that it runs for as long as you see, then shuts down. Some safety system is shutting it down....


got a thread on the 80 series trying to figure out why it shuts down..

RTH engine starts then stops. What safety system is there?

So to be clear I’m putting a 1FZ in a car that has a standard transmission. I pulled an entire engine and interior haness from a LX450, deleted the alarm, and am trying to get the car runing before I start stripping out wires down to what I need. As you can see in the pics, I have the harness...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[2fpower]

Oh, here is the neutral safety switch jumpers. The larger two with the blue crimped ends are more important, the ones on the right show the instrument cluster light in Neutral. Not sure if the computer needs to know that or not.

 

[AlbertoSD]

Oh, here is the neutral safety switch jumpers. The larger two with the blue crimped ends are more important, the ones on the right show the instrument cluster light in Neutral. Not sure if the computer needs to know that or not.

View attachment 2163595

Great work on this, Kelly!

Is there a way to know what PIN numbers you are jumping on this photo?

I will have to cross that same bridge sometime soon....

Thanks for the leg work!

-Alberto

 

[c2dfj45]

Oh, here is the neutral safety switch jumpers. The larger two with the blue crimped ends are more important, the ones on the right show the instrument cluster light in Neutral. Not sure if the computer needs to know that or not.

View attachment 2163595

I seem to recall us having to run the PRNDL display from the 80 series to make things happy. It's taped up and behind the dash of my truck.....

 

[2fpower]

I seem to recall us having to run the PRNDL display from the 80 series to make things happy. It's taped up and behind the dash of my truck.....

Interesting. Just the dash display or did you have to wire anything to the gear selector?

so, I still have the engine starting, sounds great then shuts down after about 5 seconds. So troubleshooting it, but running out of thoughts and would appreciate any info on wierd things like that.

 

[c2dfj45]

Interesting. Just the dash display or did you have to wire anything to the gear selector?

so, I still have the engine starting, sounds great then shuts down after about 5 seconds. So troubleshooting it, but running out of thoughts and would appreciate any info on wierd things like that.

We just used the cluster display.....I used the shifter assembly in the truck.

Do those tanks have a rollover switch in them? I know when we installed my tank, we put everything in the new tank that was in the old tank and I seem to recall some kind of valve or switch separate from the pump. We're talking a long time ago so my memory is kind of fuzzy.

 

[2fpower]

She runs!!! More details in the other troubleshooting thread, but the 80 series folks were extremely helpful as always. Final answer was i unplugged and plugged the ECU in and set it in an upright position as it is in the car, and she started right up.

 

[c2dfj45]

 

[2fpower]

Took out the engine harness again so I can remove the transmission cables and found out one interesting thing that the neutral safety switch just interrupts the starter signal. You can see in the first picture that the thicker wire goes down the neutral safety switch leg of the harness back up and then right into the starter. Simple. @AlbertoSD we talked about using this for security; however, given the gauge and the fact it is not already a loop back to the cab, there likely is a better place to do this. plus anyone that can jumpwire a starter can drive it away.

 

[2fpower]

Didn’t have a lot of time to work in the shop today, but I got the engine harness completed. I removed the theee plugs that go to the transmission /transfer case and the one plug that goes to the EGR sensor. Picture of the three plugs to remove below. Three spots they connected with other wires, and I just cut them off at those points and shrink tubed the open ends. On the EGR wire, I actually just cut it back all the way to the ECU so I can put a resistor in and avoid a check engine light for that code. Plugged everything back in and she started right up.

 

[2fpower]

Making lots of progress today. I would say more than half of the wires are out of the harness.

Here is how I started. My plan was to take one system out, then rehook up the computer and test fire, then unhook and do again. The only change I did to that was the next system that I was going to work on, I unhooked any box or plug on it while the car was running, and then stopped the engine, then restarted.

I will post up the order later.

I just test fired and it will not start. NO ECU light on the cluster. This happened after I pulled the front headlight harness, and horn. So, going to look at the EWD and see if I can figure out what happened. I was not working near the computer, so it must be at the gauge cluster.

 

[2fpower]

spent a couple hours tracing wires last night, and could not find the issue. going to trace a few more, then if I can't figure it out, put another light harness in and see if that was the issue.

 

[2fpower]

Well, that was 6 hours of my life I wont get back. Tried to put the other battery harness (with headlight run) on and it is from a LC, and is different than the LX, as the LX had climate control stuff on it, so different connectors, thus would not plug in..... of course figured this out after connecting everything else.

So, tore into this new harness to make sure what I tore out could not be the issue, and found a STUPID ground wire running down the length to the headlights that went back to the ECU main relay, right next to the headlight stuff.... so grounded that wire, and VROOOM.

Some interesting things I discovered......

1. the tail light circuit fuse has no power to it until you turn the lights on.

2. the fuse labeled ECU-B on the interior fuse panel goes to a half dozen things, and I can't tell if it ever goes to the ECU. It went to the seat belt warning, the lighting thing a do dad... that green box that automatically turns off the headlights after a few minutes.

And finally... how stupid I am.

I should have pinned out the ecu harness coming from the car first, so if I had this issue, I could work backward to see what was different.

Now, I am deciding if I can start drinking..... just a hair past noon. Ah, why not....

 

[c2dfj45]

Well, that was 6 hours of my life I wont get back. Tried to put the other battery harness (with headlight run) on and it is from a LC, and is different than the LX, as the LX had climate control stuff on it, so different connectors, thus would not plug in..... of course figured this out after connecting everything else.

So, tore into this new harness to make sure what I tore out could not be the issue, and found a STUPID ground wire running down the length to the headlights that went back to the ECU main relay, right next to the headlight stuff.... so grounded that wire, and VROOOM.

Some interesting things I discovered......

1. the tail light circuit fuse has no power to it until you turn the lights on.

2. the fuse labeled ECU-B on the interior fuse panel goes to a half dozen things, and I can't tell if it ever goes to the ECU. It went to the seat belt warning, the lighting thing a do dad... that green box that automatically turns off the headlights after a few minutes.

And finally... how stupid I am.

I should have pinned out the ecu harness coming from the car first, so if I had this issue, I could work backward to see what was different.

Now, I am deciding if I can start drinking..... just a hair past noon. Ah, why not....

I had that ground by the headlights come loose.....it would kill the truck when you switched on the headlights OR when you hit the horn. Lol.

 

[2fpower]

Made tons of progress today and many thanks to @StucknKS as I was about ready to give up for the day when he showed up to help. Or should I say that he showed up and then got roped into helping.

 

[Honger]

Made tons of progress today and many thanks to @StucknKS as I was about ready to give up for the day when he showed up to help. Or should I say that he showed up and then got roped into helping.

View attachment 2168681

I'm getting a headache just looking at this pic...

That said, I hope for a project someday that lets me really jump in and learn wiring stuff like this. Looks like a genuine challenge.

Loving the progress.