60 Series Axle swap with the Trail Tailor Coil Conversion (1 Viewer)

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FWIW my rig is just about done from getting the L8 installed and the wizard doing it made a random comment on how key that double wall shifter boot is for noise reduction. The more you know....
 
FWIW my rig is just about done from getting the L8 installed and the wizard doing it made a random comment on how key that double wall shifter boot is for noise reduction. The more you know....

Man he couldnt be more right. The Advance Adapter twin stick boot is about as thick as a piece of construction paper and you can REALLY tell. @Dubs2017 sent me a sound reading from inside of his truck and hes got the stock boot and sound deadening on the floor. I have the twin stick and no sound deadening. My truck when im doing 25 mph has the same sound decibel reading as his does when hes on the highway and going uphill.
 
The gears are pretty much perfectly in line. Input gear is inset by the amount of the gasket on the adapter to tcase. Going to try @cruisermatt s way of not using the gasket and RTVing the top area to see how it goes. Trans output shaft was exactly 5.5 inches. I ran the truck with the t case off and just the input gear and it didn’t really whine except in high speed and it sounded like it was coming from the spud shaft.

You can literally wiggle the spud shaft around a little in here. I guess with the back tcase half is on here it holds it in place but there’s definitely play in the splines of the spud shaft and the output shaft of the transmission. I looked at all of the gears and moving parts with a magnifying glass and there is no abnormal wear on anything

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The gears are pretty much perfectly in line. Input gear is inset by the amount of the gasket on the adapter to tcase. Going to try @cruisermatt s way of not using the gasket and RTVing the top area to see how it goes. Trans output shaft was exactly 5.5 inches. I ran the truck with the t case off and just the input gear and it didn’t really whine except in high speed and it sounded like it was coming from the spud shaft.

You can literally wiggle the spud shaft around a little in here. I guess with the back tcase half is on here it holds it in place but there’s definitely play in the splines of the spud shaft and the output shaft of the transmission. I looked at all of the gears and moving parts with a magnifying glass and there is no abnormal wear on anything

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You're like a proctologist. But with T cases.
 
Ok without the tcase to adapter gasket they are like literally dead on now. Guess we will see once I get this all put back together to see if it helped. I doubt it will. The noise sounds like it’s coming from the adapter bearing/spud shaft

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I got about this far on the crossmember. I raised the trans/tcase up quite a bit but I’m still at 3.3° down on the front tcase flange and 1.9° up on the diff flange so I’m about 5.2° off in the front and you’re supposed to be like 3° max difference. If it still vibrates like crazy I’m going to try and find some less aggressive caster plates to bring my front pinion down some.

Almost done w the crossmember. This one’s not as nice as the past few ones I’ve done. I got all of this steel from the scrap bin at the local metal place for $1/Lb. I couldn’t strike an arc on it without contamination no matter how much I cleaned it with my tig welder, so I migged it. There’s like 1/8” or less clearance between my Y pipe and the crossmember but it’s looking like it’s going to work. I had to cut big holes in the bottom of it because the oem washers are kinda big. The trans mount studs kinda stick down really far. I might need to cut those off if I can’t cover them with a skid plate

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Still. Better than the advance adapters garbage that was there before.

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Surprise surprise. Put the tcase back together and no change at all to the whine. It’s just the design of the crappy adapter.

New crossmember looks nice though. And I’m back to the oem shifter. Picked up a stock fj62 shifter and hoping to install it next. Maybe then I can finally do something about the carpet

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That's frustrating but at least you know with certainty and you now hold an advanced degree in hybrid drive trains.

I pick my rig up on Friday and now I'm worried about said whine.
 
Nice work on the crossmember. Sorry to hear about the whine. I too think that the 80 tcase may be the final solution. Sucks it comes at such a cost

I think the worst part is the split case adapter has to have the output shaft cut shorter than the 80 series adapter so I can’t just slap it on there. I need a new output shaft. So I’m thinking if this 4l60 ever dies then replace the 4l60 and do the 80 case at the same time

That's frustrating but at least you know with certainty and you now hold an advanced degree in hybrid drive trains.

I pick my rig up on Friday and now I'm worried about said whine.
Every time I talked to Georg he said his don’t whine, and Matt said his don’t whine so you might get lucky. I’ve talked to quite a few people and it’s pretty hit or miss on the whine. Just like for some people the bolt holes on the bottom actually line up with the Toyota trans isolator mount and for some the holes are off. The holes were off on mine. I think I must have got a bad casting or something. Who knows
 
Just read thru this whole thread. Thank you for all the info, going to help me out a ton on my swap.
 
Just read thru this whole thread. Thank you for all the info, going to help me out a ton on my swap.
Nice! if you have any questions feel free to reach out or post on this thread. I havent updated this in a while but everything on my truck is squared away now besides the caster plates being too much caster. Need to find some less aggressive plates. If you go with 33s or 34s and a low lift i would highly recommend against the dobinsons caster plates
 
Nice! if you have any questions feel free to reach out or post on this thread. I havent updated this in a while but everything on my truck is squared away now besides the caster plates being too much caster. Need to find some less aggressive plates. If you go with 33s or 34s and a low lift i would highly recommend against the dobinsons caster plates
Tires have nothing to do with caster 😎

@landtank offers two flavors of caster plates
2” & 4” caster plates.
It sounds like the 2” varietie would work for you.
Or if you want to go all out @delta arms
 
Tires have nothing to do with caster 😎
Sure they do. Taller tires require clearance. Clearance requires lift if you aren't chopping body panels. Less lift requires less caster adjustment.
 
Tires have nothing to do with caster 😎

@landtank offers two flavors of caster plates
2” & 4” caster plates.
It sounds like the 2” varietie would work for you.
Or if you want to go all out @delta arms
Well I mention tires because most people aren’t lifting 5 inches for 33s hahah and at this point I have no idea how much lift I have. Like my front is a 2.5 inch heavy but the tt brackets add some lift too…. But my rears are stock heights, and my truck sits perfectly level. 5* of caster is way too much for what I have now. It’s even bending my front springs a little causing the springs to rub the coil buckets.

I wonder if those land tank plates are the least aggressive plates out there. I looked at the delta arms and they all seem to have too much positive caster. I’m literally at +5 or +6° right now
 
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Nice! if you have any questions feel free to reach out or post on this thread. I havent updated this in a while but everything on my truck is squared away now besides the caster plates being too much caster. Need to find some less aggressive plates. If you go with 33s or 34s and a low lift i would highly recommend against the dobinsons caster plates
What about the OME caster bushings?
 

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