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FWIW my rig is just about done from getting the L8 installed and the wizard doing it made a random comment on how key that double wall shifter boot is for noise reduction. The more you know....
You're like a proctologist. But with T cases.The gears are pretty much perfectly in line. Input gear is inset by the amount of the gasket on the adapter to tcase. Going to try @cruisermatt s way of not using the gasket and RTVing the top area to see how it goes. Trans output shaft was exactly 5.5 inches. I ran the truck with the t case off and just the input gear and it didn’t really whine except in high speed and it sounded like it was coming from the spud shaft.
You can literally wiggle the spud shaft around a little in here. I guess with the back tcase half is on here it holds it in place but there’s definitely play in the splines of the spud shaft and the output shaft of the transmission. I looked at all of the gears and moving parts with a magnifying glass and there is no abnormal wear on anything
View attachment 3639849
Famous last words. But this is the freaking last time it’s coming apart until my 4l60 dies. Then I’m switching to the 80 case.You're like a proctologist. But with T cases.
Sorry for the delay. It’s 1x3. I believe the wall thickness is 10gaWhat size tube is that?
Nice work on the crossmember. Sorry to hear about the whine. I too think that the 80 tcase may be the final solution. Sucks it comes at such a cost
Every time I talked to Georg he said his don’t whine, and Matt said his don’t whine so you might get lucky. I’ve talked to quite a few people and it’s pretty hit or miss on the whine. Just like for some people the bolt holes on the bottom actually line up with the Toyota trans isolator mount and for some the holes are off. The holes were off on mine. I think I must have got a bad casting or something. Who knowsThat's frustrating but at least you know with certainty and you now hold an advanced degree in hybrid drive trains.
I pick my rig up on Friday and now I'm worried about said whine.
Nice! if you have any questions feel free to reach out or post on this thread. I havent updated this in a while but everything on my truck is squared away now besides the caster plates being too much caster. Need to find some less aggressive plates. If you go with 33s or 34s and a low lift i would highly recommend against the dobinsons caster platesJust read thru this whole thread. Thank you for all the info, going to help me out a ton on my swap.
Tires have nothing to do with casterNice! if you have any questions feel free to reach out or post on this thread. I havent updated this in a while but everything on my truck is squared away now besides the caster plates being too much caster. Need to find some less aggressive plates. If you go with 33s or 34s and a low lift i would highly recommend against the dobinsons caster plates
Sure they do. Taller tires require clearance. Clearance requires lift if you aren't chopping body panels. Less lift requires less caster adjustment.Tires have nothing to do with caster![]()
Well I mention tires because most people aren’t lifting 5 inches for 33s hahah and at this point I have no idea how much lift I have. Like my front is a 2.5 inch heavy but the tt brackets add some lift too…. But my rears are stock heights, and my truck sits perfectly level. 5* of caster is way too much for what I have now. It’s even bending my front springs a little causing the springs to rub the coil buckets.
What about the OME caster bushings?Nice! if you have any questions feel free to reach out or post on this thread. I havent updated this in a while but everything on my truck is squared away now besides the caster plates being too much caster. Need to find some less aggressive plates. If you go with 33s or 34s and a low lift i would highly recommend against the dobinsons caster plates