Builds 3RZ / 2RZ Swap Notes (2 Viewers)

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Did you not have gauges with a tach prior to the swap? The tach output on the 3rz ECU is on the IK2 harness and should be light green with a black stripe. My thinking is that you would need to connect that to the A6 input on the Combo Meter.
I did previously have the tach, but looking further I see that the ignition module had been changed and I think somone just took the wire from A6 and put it directly on the Accel coil for a signal. I need to check with ORS but I might be able to run a new wire from the black wire on the ORS harness where it connects to the black wire from the original emission computer harness or maybe run the ORS wire directly to the tach.
Makes things a little tougher on these older vehicles when changes have been made

Many thanks for all you posts, It's been a wealth of info for me especially as I'm in CA
 
Can anyone sugest a good scan tool ODB2 reader, the one I currently have only reads pending and trouble codes and is currently showing 0,
 
Can anyone sugest a good scan tool ODB2 reader, the one I currently have only reads pending and trouble codes and is currently showing 0,
basically any cheap reader.
i recently picked up a scangauge. pretty happy.

i guess are you saying you have a check engine light on but it's showing no codes?
 
Can anyone sugest a good scan tool ODB2 reader, the one I currently have only reads pending and trouble codes and is currently showing 0,
I asked the same question over in my neighborhood. Here are the answers.

I use a VeePeak bluetooth reader (like $20 on amazon) and OBDFusion. That app gives you access to all sensor data the ECU sees and you can customize a GUI exactly how you want. The caveat is that it takes a lot of work to customize a GUI with all the scaling needed to get the gauges how you want. The default dashboards suck IMO and need to be modified.

The Torque app seems to be a popular one for a bluetooth scanner. Any generic ELM (or something like that) will do as the hardware plug/dongle thing. The "pro" version of the Torque app gives you mode data in case the free version isn't enough.

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I also use the Torque app. I recommend getting Techstream.
 
basically any cheap reader.
i recently picked up a scangauge. pretty happy.

i guess are you saying you have a check engine light on but it's showing no codes?
No I do not have the check engine light on but I understand after the 3RZ engine swap I have to make sure that all the sensors are ready before I contact the referee.
Thanks for all the options guys
 
Thanks for the pics, one last question how far behind the second cat is the second O2 sensor, I think I see it but would you mind pointing it out
I have a appointment to get my exhaust done on Tuesday.
Did you flip the front drive shaft to get a little more room

Messed this up a little, this message is for @liveoak as I'm trying to copy his exhaust
 
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So on the airbox topic. As I have mentioned, I am in CA and have to pass a smog referee inspection. CARB does not allow modifications to the intake system (post airfilter - that's why snorkels can be added I believe). So my 80mm extension I used to make the airbox push into the old battery spot probably will earn me a no go.

So to get around that, I ordered a K&N FIPK Intake System PN 57-9012. It has a CARB sticker that has a EO number that makes it smog legal. On 1st gen 4runners/2nd gen trucks it fits decently into the old battery tray area. It does rub on my coolant return line, so I may trim that to get it in a little tighter when I drain my coolant next.

I got it off Napa for $300, but it looks like they're up to $350 now. Honestly the quality is pretty trash for that price IMO. The HDPE casting feel cheap and the bumps are brass threaded inserts that are molded in and the molding looks cheap. However, I would recommend it for anyone looking for a CARB legal solution. Or the Trailgear Rock Ripper is the same design really but with a stainless tube and does not have the "cold air damn" that won't work anyways.

This actually frees up room for me to mount my coolant overflow better. I need to come up with fixturing for both the air damn and the reservoir still.
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And the good news: the IAC inspection/clean out in my previous post fixed my idle issue. It feels REALLY good now. The freer flowing intake may have helped some small amount, but i attribute the change largely to the IAC job. MAN I love driving this thing.

Here is another CA Legal intake method. Both the K&N 57-9012 and the Trail Gear Rock Ripper intakes have CARB EO numbers. I can't confirm the rockripper fitment, but the K&N fits into my truck.
 
I have a appointment to get my exhaust done on Tuesday.
Did you flip the front drive shaft to get a little more room

Messed this up a little, this message is for @liveoak as I'm trying to copy his exhaust
I ended up changing to a single-cardan front drive shaft, having a single universal joint at each end. I put a double cardan on the transfer case side of the rear driveshaft. Basically flip-flopped from how it came from the factory. This did give me more clearance from the catalytic converter on the front drive shaft and helped with caster angle correction
 
Here is another CA Legal intake method. Both the K&N 57-9012 and the Trail Gear Rock Ripper intakes have CARB EO numbers. I can't confirm the rockripper fitment, but the K&N fits into my truck.
Maybe a little late for you but I used the TOS battery tray and EVAP mount that let the collant bottle stay in it's original location, the only issue was a group 24 battery touched the hood so go with a group 34 or Optima battery, I also kept the power steering pump and resivoir that came with the 3RZ motor

PXL_20240420_165912271.jpg
 
My truck is now ready for the CA BAR ref to check and I have a virtual appointment on May 1st.
Two of the items they are asking for

1. Deaker invoice for PCM/ECM programming (if applicable)
2. If 1996 and newer, needs software verification of donor engine

Does the ECU need any programming, it came from a different Vin as the computer in the vehicle the engine came from was damaged but it did come from the correct setup, 3RZ 4x4 manual trans.
So how could one do a software verification of the donor engine
Does anyone have a little more info for me to work with prior to my appointment next week.
 
My truck is now ready for the CA BAR ref to check and I have a virtual appointment on May 1st.
Two of the items they are asking for

1. Deaker invoice for PCM/ECM programming (if applicable)
2. If 1996 and newer, needs software verification of donor engine

Does the ECU need any programming, it came from a different Vin as the computer in the vehicle the engine came from was damaged but it did come from the correct setup, 3RZ 4x4 manual trans.
So how could one do a software verification of the donor engine
Does anyone have a little more info for me to work with prior to my appointment next week.

This is a direct quote of the referee email instructions to me
"An invoice from the dealership or a licensed automotive repair dealer verifying in writing that the ECU/PCM is correct for the year, make, model, engine and transmission for a Ca engine (If the vehicle or donor vehicle has Ca emissions). The invoice should contain PCM/ECU part number and verification that all OBDII system support and functionality is the same OEM configuration as the donor vehicle."

To answer your question, I do not believe the ECM has any vin information on it, however the dealer can look up your donor engine VIN and note on the invoice whether your ECU PN is correct or not.
 
I just had to show proof of purchase of the donor 2001 tacoma and receipt with part number for the 2001 3rz manual 4x4 ecu I put in place of the 2001 3rz auto 2wd ecu.
It sounds like it's gotten tougher since 2015 when I took mine in.
 
Info for anyone in CA trying to get through this engine swap
This is the email from the ref on my first virtual appointment

Please reply to this email with the following:
Pictures of the engine installed from left, right and front of the engine bay.
Pictures of the EVAP canister.
Pictures of the exhaust configuration including catalytic converter & O2 sensor locations.
Pictures of the ECU ID
Donor VIN
Pictures of any CARB EO's & part numbers for aftermarket parts.
Vehicle registration
Pictures showing a functioning check engine light.
An invoice from the manufacturer dealer or licensed automotive repair dealer (ARD) verifying in writing that the ECM/PCM programming, functionality and CVN and Cal ID is correct for the donor vehicle.
Picture of a scan tool screen showing that all OBDII monitors are set to ready with no DTC's stored.
Thank you,
 
I loved my time living in CA but that list is absurd. Kudos to you guys for making it happen there. You can do it!!

I'll be revisiting this thread at some point, still need to get my 3RZ swap wired up and running... its just a few rungs lower on the priority list right now. Glad to see this thread active.
 
OBD2 on these trucks has 8 monitors that after clearing CELs or pulling the battery terminal have to go through a certain process to "complete". The ECU is basically looking for certain sensory data to meet certain specs to determine if no check engine light codes are pending or current. If you get a OBD2 reader you can view the status of the monitors - they will show as complete or incomplete. Evap monitor can take very long to clear if you just casually drive and hope it clears.

For a regular smog check, given certain year vehicles (96-2000 I believe) you can have one incomplete monitor. Someone can look that up if they want to fact check. I am fairly certain the ref wants all monitors complete for initial certification, however.

I recently found this post that should do the trick to get the monitor to complete. I'll give it a shot this weekend, although I don't have AC hooked up and am a manual truck.

View attachment 3587567
Hi @RichardSkinner , did you have any luck setting your EVAP ready monitor, I have no AC and I'm manual so I tried putting the rear end on jack stands and putting it in gear for the slight load for the pattern but no luck.
I have the 2000 EVAP system and a 2003 ECM, I see the above is for drive pattern 6, the intrusive system so I'm going to try drive pattern 5 and see if that helps.
 
Air Conditioning

AC Wiring
I kept my original A/C amplifier and wired as follows using 2 wires:
1=Tacoma E5 plug pin#13 blue/yellow to 4runner plug2 blue. Use a 3k ohm resistor inline for proper idle up/down. (this resistor mod may work for 3.4 swap as well)
2=Tacoma IK2 plug pin#24 light green to 4runner plug2 black/white for A/C clutch
Chris, I'm finally getting around to hooking up the AC. Damn it been hot. So, I just want to confirm it's really this simple to make me blow cold.
 
Chris, I'm finally getting around to hooking up the AC. Damn it been hot. So, I just want to confirm it's really this simple to make me blow cold.
Yes, that's all I remember having to do besides connecting the AC clutch to the Tacoma harness clutch wire under the hood
 
Yes, that's all I remember having to do besides connecting the AC clutch to the Tacoma harness clutch wire under the hood
Thanks. I had custom hoses made Monday. Installed yesterday. Getting the system leak tested and charged tomorrow. I'm using the 3RZ 4Runner compressor. Apparently, it's a different part number than the Tacoma compressor. Not sure what the difference is.

AC fittings-sm.jpg
 
Apparently, it's a different part number than the Tacoma compressor. Not sure what the difference is.
Probably just a little larger or higher capacity for the size of the cab of a 4Runner vs Tacoma. From what I remember, our 4runners had a larger compressor and condenser than the pickups of that generation as well.
 
I purchased the radiator and the 2RZ shroud, would you have more pictures or info on the modifications you made to the fan shroud.
Sorry, life got in the way for a while there. It's hard to take good pics in there. I saw somewhere someone asked why I chose a 3.0 2wd over 4wd radiator. It was because it has a lower vertical height and doesn't hang down as far as the 4wd radiator therefore also better suited to the 2rz shroud. I used either 1/2 or 3/4 ABS black silicone and some rivets.

radiator1.jpg

radiator2.jpg
radiator3.jpg



radiator4.jpg
 
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