2uz engine build 300 to 400 to 500whp? (3 Viewers)

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Wadepat2 said:
Will probably go with f250. Have an offshore boat and may go to little bigger boat so will need heavier truck.

Someone is going to get an offroad monster LC from me haha. Right now it's just a bad ass daily mall crawler . Was going to do suspension and tires once back in US. Everything underneath is basically new OEM. Has stock rear locker, tjm front locker, manual trans, part time kit, etc. Hasn't been offroad since I started on performance mods. I did consider it but no way I can hack it up even if I sell for half what's in it (Alot $$). haha


Let me know how the ASP works for you. It has been great for me as an Overdrive pulley. Worth a few extra psi using TRD SC and then Harrop 1.9. Just need to upgrade for engine builder to be happy after balancing crank etc. They don't want a welded pulley on it and asked I buy an ATI damper or keep stock.
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The asp on mine is a single piece pulley. Its 17ish years old at this point.

All the work in your setup I'd want to keep it somehow but yeah, towing a bigger boat on a first gen isnt the best. My double ski trailer is noticable. You can add power and brakes but that doesnt fix gvwr.

Sean
 
J1000 said:
500 HP will tow your boat just fine! Can't wait to see more videos and results from this thing. You still gotta hit some dunes with this beast before bringing it back to the states.
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Yea plenty of power at 400 just not enough weight and stopping power.

Travis at Elate just let me know the new supercharger has arrived :)!!
 
My new supercharger arrived at Elate. Going to be interesting next month.

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Last edited:
Had a few people ask so wanted to post some Old numbers and expected.

Depending on pulley setup and supporting mods. Extra whp

-TRD 80-120 whp (dyno 320whp) needed methanol with no intercooler. Hp highly dependant on manifold temps

-Elate 1900 kit 80- 220whp ( dyno at 420whp) intercooler only, easy to repeat

-Elate w/ 2650 estimated 300+ (550whp?)

The 1900 or the 2650 could likely go double the hp with a custom pulley setup to spin them faster but I'm trying to keep it mostly stock setup for belt and accessories without a bunch of fab work.
 
With the added hp needed to spin the much bigger SC I'm trying to give the small 6 rib belt some help. Typically 8 rib would be smallest belt used but not looking to lose the hyd fan and get further away from stock on accessories.
Had Griptec do there grip process on my Elate 65mm pulley, adding Elate extra idler for more belt wrap and working on custom crank for my ATI damper. Praying for no slip when it goes on. Only other option is to add big crank pulley to front of Damper. And extend SC snout pulley...
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J1000 said:
How much would that shop make another intake just like that for?
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I actually removed the Intake they built since it was aluminum and always crazy hot. This is just a 4" carbon fiber tube from Amazon and an Intake elbow. Other side under cover is 4" inlet cone filter. I did keep the filter cover but it doesn't do much. If I was in US I would try to find a CAI with enclosed box with inlet going to fender more like stock. Plastic and carbon tube don't hold heat like aluminum pipe from what I have seen.
 
Perhaps you could talk a little about some of the difference from that of USA models, while you wait for the new Supercharge.

Like the vacuum assist brakes. Does it have ABS, TRAC & VSC? Engine off (no vacuum) do you still have enough brakes to stop from 70 MPH while going down hill?

Does it have, charcoal canister w/EVAP system?

Any issue importing into USA, without CATs?
 
2001LC said:
Perhaps you could talk a little about some of the difference from that of USA models, while you wait for the new Supercharge.

Like the vacuum assist brakes. Does it have ABS, TRAC & VSC? Engine off (no vacuum) do you still have enough brakes to stop from 70 MPH while going down hill?

Does it have, charcoal canister w/EVAP system?

Any issue importing into USA, without CATs?
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For sure I can try to fill in a few things.

No ABS, TRAC or VSC. Old school vac brakes work great..but doesn't really rain here so bad roads and rain or power loss could suck. Same as old school brake systems seen in US and even some newer models. I remember trying to stop my early 2000 F250 when losing power on exit ramp. Steering and brakes were tough but was enough to stop and steer off the road. My LC would stop the same as no boost but would have to stand on the brakes instead of a light touch.

It did have charcoal can and evap. Evap was all removed when I went standalone ecu but canister is still in place so fuel tank can vent through the charcoal instead of just open to air. Helps a little.

My 99 GCC spec didn't come with cats or o2 sensors. This was actually the reason I had to go standalone on first SC (TRD). I bought the kit with ecu and realized it wouldn't work right before install.

From talking to importers with the 25 year exemption it shouldn't matter anyways. I have asked a few about having a full exhaust from headers with no cats and all said it wouldn't be an issue.

Side note... recently found out I am leaving Dubai in May so I might just sell it here for a huge loss and keep the shipping cash paid by the company I work for. But option is still open to import it to US and then sell it. Almost 100% I won't be keeping it either way. It sucks but with my new role back in US I just wont need another vehicle. Already have new truck that I need for my boat. Thankfully living in Dubai gave me a chance to build (still in progress) badass daily driver and I will do my best to make sure it goes to someone who will drive and offroad it. I enjoy the project , wrenching and hobby part as much as driving it so im not to upset about it. I'm sure I'll miss it but hope to enjoy seeing it on someone's social media etc :)


Sorry for the long winded side notes
 
After a world tour from New Zealand to Australia to China and then to the Philippines my 1900s big brother Harrop 2650 finally arrived here in Dubai. Crazy how they are basically the same physical size with only about an inch difference in length.

Install pending for next week. Any last minute advice I'm listening!! Updating my fuel and ignition maps for the new boost above 12. Possible it will go as high as 20. Honestly hoping to stay under 20 psi. Anyone running similar boost feel free to share what you would run as "safe timing" while i get fuel dialed in on 98 pump gas. Will add methanol injection and then get it on dyno pending any issues.

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smokeysevin said:
Still running a 6 rib belt?

Sean
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Yea 6 rib and extra idler to wrap belt with custom griptec pulley. Right now I'm not using extra idler and not getting any slip but I know it's coming once pushed. Once extra idler is sorted out looks like it will be good. At my max Ill be at the very bottom of what this blower can do. ~500 whp so should be ok.

Plan to stay 6 rib so I don't have to lose the hyd fan etc. If not for fan I would go 8 or 10.
 
Boost numbers with stock crank pulley.
15psi at 3500 rpm and 17.5 at 6k
Temps are good and no belt slip. Hope to have it on dyno in next few weeks once I get boost fueling dialed in.
I'm not going to Install the ATI damper since it's 1/4" bigger in diameter and would put boost closer to 20 psi.

 
GTV said:
Not even for science? 😉
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Hahaha

If it makes over 500whp I will try to keep it as it is. If it falls a little short I'll push it.
Or
I may get 500 then get bored in a few weeks and install it. Haha.
It's just sitting there calling me to be installed and it was stupid expensive.
 
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