Builds 1FZFE overhaul

[concretejungle]

I gotcha, but you still need a THICKER shim to to lessen the clearance.

Oh, yea, i forgot to reply to that part. Yea, i was so damn confused trying to think about that yesterday! Had too many things going on at one time and was about to head out the door to my mom's for dinner and...... anyways. Thanks!

 

[TrickyT]

No bites on the knock sensor?!

You sure that's not the crankshaft position sensor you're looking at?

Regardless, according to page 62 of my 1997 EWD (should be the same/very similar for your '95), both the CPS and knock sensors used shielded conductors. So what you're looking at in the first photo is the shield. What I can't tell from the photo is where along the length of the cable you're holding it. If it's near the sensor, then I'd say everything is fine and you can just clean off the wires and wrap them with a few turns of electrical tape.

The shielding is there because both the CPS and knock sensors do their work using a relatively small amount of current, and hence are susceptible to interference from the ignition wiring. To keep stray currents from being induced into the sensor wires, the signal conductors are shielded and the shield is tied to ground via the black wire you noted in your post. (Only one end of the shield needs to be connected to a ground.) As long as their is continuity between the "frayed" end of the shield and the ground conductor you should be fine.

 

[OGBeno]

You sure that's not the crankshaft position sensor you're looking at?

Regardless, according to page 62 of my 1997 EWD (should be the same/very similar for your '95), both the CPS and knock sensors used shielded conductors. So what you're looking at in the first photo is the shield. What I can't tell from the photo is where along the length of the cable you're holding it. If it's near the sensor, then I'd say everything is fine and you can just clean off the wires and wrap them with a few turns of electrical tape.

The shielding is there because both the CPS and knock sensors do their work using a relatively small amount of current, and hence are susceptible to interference from the ignition wiring. To keep stray currents from being induced into the sensor wires, the signal conductors are shielded and the shield is tied to ground via the black wire you noted in your post. (Only one end of the shield needs to be connected to a ground.) As long as their is continuity between the "frayed" end of the shield and the ground conductor you should be fine.

Damn!!

I love the fact that TrickyT has a Ph.D....

...in something....

 

[concretejungle]

You sure that's not the crankshaft position sensor you're looking at?

Regardless, according to page 62 of my 1997 EWD (should be the same/very similar for your '95), both the CPS and knock sensors used shielded conductors. So what you're looking at in the first photo is the shield. What I can't tell from the photo is where along the length of the cable you're holding it. If it's near the sensor, then I'd say everything is fine and you can just clean off the wires and wrap them with a few turns of electrical tape.

The shielding is there because both the CPS and knock sensors do their work using a relatively small amount of current, and hence are susceptible to interference from the ignition wiring. To keep stray currents from being induced into the sensor wires, the signal conductors are shielded and the shield is tied to ground via the black wire you noted in your post. (Only one end of the shield needs to be connected to a ground.) As long as their is continuity between the "frayed" end of the shield and the ground conductor you should be fine.

Tom, thank you, and yes, i was talking about the crank positioning sensor! I need a vacation! :whoops:

 

[SBFJ60FIG]

Alex, where are you in this fine country out of curiosity?

 

[Trollhole]

Okay I'm missing my weekly fix. Whats you been up too?

 

[94SRUNNER]

Ditto!

concretejungle its been almost 2-weeks, an update is only appropriate!

 

[PDoyle]

he must have taken that vacation....

 

[landtank]

he must have taken that vacation....

or going through friend's sofas looking for spare change to finish this up.

 

[jfz80]

I hear hes over on clublex searching sparkplugs and spending all his time and money on his RC build

 

[concretejungle]

sorry guys!!

OK, so my rc crawler broke and that bummed me out, plus i've been really busy with work. Then we finally get a nice weekend and i want to go out and play!! So... i've just gotten behind and kind of lost interest. I'm getting it back though because my rc crawler is back up and running and the nice weather is making me want to take the cruiser out!

Right now i have all the shims out and have measured them with micrometers. Then i have calculated the size of replacement shims i need and ..... that's pretty much where i lost motivation. Now, i just need to see what i have and maybe some of them will be able to be swapped around and i'm sure i'll need to get a few replacements. I hope to be pulling the trigger on the shims in the next few days..... landtank you will probably get a PM.

Also, i have decided to replace the PS pump too. So, i'll need to order that up and a few hoses that i'm missing as well as new nuts and studs for the exhaust and intake manifolds. I did order a few replacement studs from cdan, but now that i'm there, i should probably replace them all with new.

I should have some good juicy updates here in the next week or so.

This is what has been taking some of my time lately.... and money!

 

[gfox777]

Amazing thread-- My .02 on royal purple

Truth in Advertising: BP v. Royal Purple
Older article but still interesting...

I dont know how old this post is but you have HUGE guevos to take this project on. In another 100k, if i have the right facility, I would love to do this to my rig. Awesome job.

Re: Royal purple, a while ago I came across an independent test based on about 10+ oils meant for high performance offroad and mx dirtbikes. If any of your ride dirtbikes, you know the intense stress that our engines place on oils. In practically every category, royal purple was one of the worst performers. ScO was right on with that article and if i can find my oil test, because i remember downloading it, I will make it available to anyone who emails me.

Regards,

Greg

 

[concretejungle]

Greg,

Thanks for that post. However, i want to note that the ONLY reason i would consider royal purple was for the break in lube ONLY because of it's high zinc content. I have been very pleased with M1 synthetic and will run that oil again, but for break-in purposes, i was considering it.

I think i will probably run a diesel oil since they are heavy on the zinc.

 

[gfox777]

Understood. The diesel oil is a good idea. Many KTM riders swear by Shell Rotella, especially since Ktm has been producing engines that do not separate the tranny oil from the engine oil and is subject to immense punishment. I just wanted to make sure that there was no purple coolaid being consumed. I have always used M1 synthetic in my FJ too and always will. Can't wait to read when you first fire up the engine. My 80 has about 140k miles on it and i am considering re-checking the valves and sending off the injectors to witchhunter here shortly as a routine maintenance. I sure wish that i would have ripped my oil cooler off for a good cleaning a year or so ago when i had some exhaust work performed.

 

[concretejungle]

had big plans for this weekend, but only got a little done. I'll explain later

First off, not really motor related, but my rear emblem was broken in half and the half remaining was just dangling. So, i replaced it with a new one. The only issue with replacing this emblem is the leftover goop from the old adhesive. Luckily i have a friend that owns a body shop, so he dropped off this neat little "eraser" that mounts onto a drill. It will take the sticky crap off without removing the paint.

The new emblem sure is pretty!

 

[concretejungle]

then, i spent a little time on the valve cover. Took all the old spark plug tube seals out and the PCV valve/grommet out and soaked the thing in a parts washer for a week! Took it out and blew/sprayed everything out until it was really clean, then painted it. Then, i installed new valve tube seals and a new PCV grommet.

 

[concretejungle]

and here is where i ran into a problem. Part of the problem was not only technical, but also March Madness was on TV, my buddies had Tee Times scheduled and it was 81 degrees and sunny!

Here is where the real technical problem lies. I measured my valve clearances as the FSM details. I found a few that were out of spec. So, i decided instead of taking it back to the machine shop to "tip the valves" i decided to learn more and adjust the valves using the shims.

Once i realized which valves were out, we removed the cams and pulled the subject shims. Then, i used a friend's micrometer to measure them (you have to know the thickness to adjust). He told me it was a cheap micrometer, so thinking i may need one again some day, i purchased one to double check the measurements. Making sure both micrometers were "zeroed" out, i compared. They were both the same. So i felt pretty good about my measurements. I decided to work the math and then back up my findings using the valve shim chart in the FSM. Everything worked out so i was happy!

More sunny, nice golf days arrived so it took me a while to finally order up what i needed.

Got the parts in and was ready to get the motor finished up. Not so!

Here is the problem. You can see the stamp on this brand new valve shim. It's the thickness in MM. Here you can see the problem. My micrometer is not showing the same measurement! Not only that, now my micrometer is not showing the same measurement as my friend's micrometer. So then i took a old shim that i had measured before and now i'm not getting the same measurment on it as before!!! WTF!!

the very last one pictured should measure out to 3.5 mm and look at what i'm getting!

So i put it all down and played golf!

 

[Romer]

Excellent thread. Added it to the FAQ in chapter 6 four items

 

[Kernal]

concretejungle: Wonder if the temps of the tools/parts being measured or the type/quality of tools being used would change the measurements?? Here's a link to a Starrett outside micrometer.

Amazon.com: Starrett 733XFL-1 Electronic Digital Micrometer With Output, Carbide-Faced Anvil And Spindle, Friction Thimble And Lock Nut, 0-1" Range, .00005" Resolution: Home Improvement

 

[concretejungle]

i wondered the same thing... mostly the quality of the tools more so than the conditions and temps. I'm sure that the metal expands/contracts with temps, but i personally wouldn't think that 20 degree sweeps would make much of a difference considering these shims in the motor cycle hundreds of degrees.

The micrometer i'm using i purchased from Lowes. It was only about $40.