- Thread starter
- #221
I know, i know... It does keep the belts from slapping around and i'm not exactly trying to meet any weight requirements. Plus, mr. T had to of put it there for a reason? right?
Builds 1FZFE overhaul
- Thread starter concretejungle
- Start date
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I know, i know... It does keep the belts from slapping around and i'm not exactly trying to meet any weight requirements. Plus, mr. T had to of put it there for a reason? right?
I've always thought that it helps equalize the tension between the two belts, no way that they are EXACTLY the same size and there seems to be some wobble built into it.
I've never noticed one iota of difference with the pulley there or with it removed, idling or with the engine pushing rpms.
what are you using to evaluate the this?
Honestly I can see that manufacturing techniques have progressed to a point where a design concern in 1992 might not be relevant.
Personally I won't run an engine with out one.
heres another engine....
- Thread starter
- #226
Cool, good time for you to start another thread!
Hey cj,
I'm really digging watching this rebuild, it's something I've always wanted to do. As far as that belt pulley, I've always wondered why they had that thing there.
- Thread starter
- #228
I think the belt pulley does help keep the belts running smooth, especially during start-up. If there is any slack or as the belts age and wear, they will stretch and loosen up. Yea, you are supposed to keep them tensioned up, but sometimes we don't even realize they have loosened up. IMHO, it just keeps everything smooth and is a back-up precaution. Kind of like what's the purpose of having two belts?
IMHO, if the pulley is good, then run it. But if it needed replacement, I wouldn't waste my money and I'd run without it.
Why even put a bolt in it?
- Thread starter
- #231
on the pulley... not too long ago a local club member found a online bearing place that had a replacement bearing for the pulley. Really easy to replace and was only like $4 or so. So it spins really nice.
I believe oil will come out if it's not plugged.
No it won't... We've had ours off for a while with no I'll effects.
- Thread starter
- #234
Put the fuel rail together last night. The injectors i had serviced at witchhunter performance. THey come ready to go with new o rings and seals. I took a pic to show that there is a VERY small difference between the insulator that witch hunter provides and the ones that are in the "gasket kit" from Toyota. If you look close, the insulator on the left has a little more material on the edges. It's the Toyota one and the one on the right is the one suppled with the injector from witch hunter. I decided to go with the Toyota one. I could not tell any difference in the o-rings.
The manual tells you that once you have the rail bolted in place onto the intake, make sure the injectors and twist smoothly.
The manual tells you that once you have the rail bolted in place onto the intake, make sure the injectors and twist smoothly.
- Thread starter
- #235
now that i'm getting down the home stretch, i'm starting to see a bolt or nut every once in a while that is missing! 
I'm missing one bolt to hold the lower intake on. Guess i'll order one. 
Also replaced the gasket that holds the intake to the block as well as the upper intake to the lower.
This is where the FSM starts to get a little sketchy! I couldn't find anywhere in the book except the torque table at the end of each chapter, how much to torque the lower intake to the head. The table says 20 ft. lbs. That seems about right considering most of the parts that are bolted with a "metal" type material gasket seem to be right at the 20 ft. lbs mark.
I also realized that i have forgotten to the replace the front knock sensor that i broke during removal. Probably want to pick that up from a yard or mudder instead of new.
I'm missing one bolt to hold the lower intake on. Guess i'll order one. Also replaced the gasket that holds the intake to the block as well as the upper intake to the lower.
This is where the FSM starts to get a little sketchy! I couldn't find anywhere in the book except the torque table at the end of each chapter, how much to torque the lower intake to the head. The table says 20 ft. lbs. That seems about right considering most of the parts that are bolted with a "metal" type material gasket seem to be right at the 20 ft. lbs mark.
I also realized that i have forgotten to the replace the front knock sensor that i broke during removal. Probably want to pick that up from a yard or mudder instead of new.
- Thread starter
- #236
can you guys help me ID these metal washers? I have no clue where they need or needed to go. Don't like having leftover parts 
- Thread starter
- #238
I did end up getting my own parts washer. But, i initially took the intakes with me to the machine shop and had them dipped. Then i used a high temp paint to paint them.
Valve cover i let soak in my parts washer for about two weeks (since only half would fit at a time, i did half for a week and the other half for a week). Then sprayed them down with brake cleaner. Worked great.
can you guys help me ID these metal washers? I have no clue where they need or needed to go. Don't like having leftover parts
Banjo bolt (fuel filter and fuel rail) washers? and I don't remember what the thin black rubber ones are. I had few of them left over after my HG. The other wide black rubber washer looks like came from one of the injectors.
- Thread starter
- #240
Yes, the black ones pictured both go with the fuel injectors. But the metal ones are the ones i don't know where they go. You may be right about connection at the fuel rail to the fuel lines. I'll report back!
