Builds 1FZFE overhaul

[ppc]

I don't think he is implying the shim thickness is changing as much as the measuring tools are going to loose calibration. A best practice is to bring the shims and measuring tools inside into a controlled environment and let them acclimate before making measurements.

Calipers which are what you have photographed are not the most accurate tool to measure the shims. A micrometer is a better choice and higher accuracy.

 

[concretejungle]

I don't think he is implying the shim thickness is changing as much as the measuring tools are going to loose calibration. A best practice is to bring the shims and measuring tools inside into a controlled environment and let them acclimate before making measurements.

Calipers which are what you have photographed are not the most accurate tool to measure the shims. A micrometer is a better choice and higher accuracy.

you mean like in my house? I can't control it much more than that.

 

[ppc]

No, I was thinking at the bottom of Lake Mitchell

 

[concretejungle]

i'm probably going to take two shims and my calipers to the shop tomorrow and see what their micrometer says.

Also, i have to realize that the tightest measurements i can get are three decimals since that's as far as the feeler gauges read that i used to measure clearances. The calipers read that far as well.

all in all, i'll probably use the best i have and put the cam in just for fun and see what clearances i am at now. This isn't a race for me; i'm taking my time and learning as i go.

 

[Cube Dweller]

parts should be measured at 68 degrees, parts should be left in the room at that temp for 24 hours to normalize. The tool you were using is a caliper, not a micrometer. I would use a micrometer to measure the thickness of the shims, not a caliper, as calipers are not as accurate. the mic should be normalized at 68 degrees as well, and checked for zero at that temp.

edit: ppc beat me to it.

 

[OGBeno]

As we talked about on the phone, the machine shop should've taken care of these issues.

That's where I would start first.

 

[concretejungle]

got a lot done yesterday on the motor

Had my friend bring over his set of mics to double check the shim thicknesses. Glad i did. We luckily had the shims i needed and swapped a couple around to get them right. Words of wisdom: if you are going to adjust your valves using the shims, get a micrometer instead of the calipers i used and showed in previous pictures. You really do need the accuracy.

For anyone in the future rebuilding your motor or at least the top end, take you FSM to your machinist and let them do this work unless you just want to. That would be the easiest and has been suggested by a few other board members. I decided since i was doing this entire build and learning, i wanted to do the adjustments.

I wish i would have taken more pictures but when you hands are covered in oil and you are trying to think through what you are doing and get it done, the camera didn't get used enough.

First pic is showing the intake cam. The FSM has you install the intake cam first. It is VERY important that you make sure the crank and therefor the pistons are in the correct position at TDC and overlap. The reason for this is the FSM has you lay the intake cam in place first. You will notice that the orientation of the cam has some of the cam lobes pressing on certain valves. It also rides a little off the journals at first because of this. SO it's very important to double check and triple check that everything is positioned correctly so when you begin to tighten the two bearing caps to lower the intake cam in place you are not putting pressure incorrectly on the cam, OR pressing valves into the top of the piston.

The second pic i was trying to show you the position of the cam lobes pressing against the valve shims. The third pic is of the exhaust cam showing the double dots on the cam gear that you also use to help you orient the cam. The FSM does a pretty good job of detailing this procedure.

 

[concretejungle]

Also, do not forget to take the service bolt out of the spring loaded cam gear! I don't think the FSM reminds you to remove it, but if you don't and put the valve cover on, you will have to take things apart to get in there and remove it.

Pretty neat how the spring loaded cam gear operates. It is there so that there is constant pressure on the cam gears that way as they wear there won't be any slop in them. Pretty cool actually.

Got a couple of pics of the cams in place and the valve cover on before my camera battery died. I'll get some more up soon of what else i got accomplished.

 

[aim]

Nice alternator mount!

Got a couple of pics of the cams in place and the valve cover on before my camera battery died. I'll get some more up soon of what else i got accomplished.

 

[landtank]

what's that hideous belt idler doing on there?

 

[OGBeno]

what's that hideous belt idler doing on there?

x2. Get rid of that and throw a bolt in there. The idler is pretty much useless.

 

[concretejungle]

what yall' talking about? You mean cause it's dirty?

 

[landtank]

ya, it's like looking at a supermodel that has a hairy mole on the side of her nose. All you see is the mole.

 

[Bogart]

that thar is purdy!!!!!
and LT, a beautiful lady has to have at least one imperfection or she could never put up with all our faults!

 

[concretejungle]

OK, OK... i'll take care of the facial blemish!!

 

[TrickyT]

...SO it's very important to double check and triple check that everything is positioned correctly so when you begin to tighten the two bearing caps to lower the intake cam in place you are not putting pressure incorrectly on the cam, OR pressing valves into the top of the piston...

The 1FZ-FE is a non-interference motor. The valves can't come into contact with the pistons.

 

[concretejungle]

OK, here you go!

 

[concretejungle]

The 1FZ-FE is a non-interference motor. The valves can't come into contact with the pistons.

Really?

Well, if that is in fact the case, even better!

 

[concretejungle]

Installed the new (rebuilt) PS pump. IIRC the bolts are torqued to 23 ft-lbs. You need a gear puller to pull the gear off the old pump and install onto the new pump. Also, don't forget to get the key as well. You'll need it too.

 

[concretejungle]

new pump sitting in place. Sure is purdy!