Builds 1FZFE overhaul

[concretejungle]

I thought it did, and i searched through the box, but can't find it. I will look again before I go to the dealer on Monday.

I need to finish measuring out the shims but just aint feeling motivated to mess with it right now.

 

[tahoepow]

might want to check the rear heater core tubes bolted to the middle of the firewall. They look pretty easy to replace if rusty with the engine out. I'm still trying to replace mine with the engine in.

 

[Tall Pine]

Thanks for all the detailed pics and explanations. You are the man!!!!!!!

 

[dropthattaco]

SSSUBSCRIBED! I am digging this thread. Also, you said you got the head gasket from Luis @ paradise racing? He's a good guy, I've gotten several parts for my turbo tacoma from him. Looks like a good time!

 

[NKP Garage]

Very nice work. Loving how detail oriented you are and you're not skimping out on any parts.

 

[crookdbill]

Could you tell me what size bolts I need for the block to attach it to the stand. I got the same stand from harbor freight tools. Replacement motor still sitting on the same crate it was delivered on. Thanks and excellent write up!

 

[concretejungle]

Could you tell me what size bolts I need for the block to attach it to the stand. I got the same stand from harbor freight tools. Replacement motor still sitting on the same crate it was delivered on. Thanks and excellent write up!

IIRC i used the same bolts that held the motor/bell housing together.

 

[crazybirddog]

Thanks for posting all the detail on your overhaul. I’m getting ready to do the same and appreciate having some reference before starting. I will probably be hitting you up with questions from time to time.

 

[concretejungle]

decided to try to wrench on the truck a little today since it's really a nice day outside.

Was working on mounting the transmission cooler but because of a little ADD i was also trying to cut up some gaskets for the crank positioning sensor.

That's when i noticed this!

Now i'm trying to figure if the frayed wire is an actual wire or just shielding around the two wires running to the sensor! Wonder if it's even worth trying to repair or if i should buy another one?

Here is what is kind of strange... there are three wires coming out of the plug side (black, red, white). But, at the actual sensor there are only two wires that enter into the sensor (red and white). So where does the black wire go?

 

[concretejungle]

No bites on the knock sensor?!

Well then lets talk about valve shims again.

I'm going to run through a scenario of one of my shims/valves and you guys tell me if i'm doing the math correct.

So i want to have an intake valve clearance of .008 in. I'm currently sitting at .011 in.

.011 - .008=.003 in difference between where i am and where i need to be.

.1130 in. is the current shim size that is in this valve and i need a shim that is .003 in. "thinner" so

.1130 - .003 = .1100 in. shim is what i need.

Look in the chart and the replacement shim #7 is .1102 in. So that's what i need for this valve? Correct?

Reason i'm asking is that I seem to be getting inconsistent results with the chart. Some of my measured clearances and measured shims are not in the chart (which means i'm going between or as close to a number as possible). It's also causing me to come up a few times with two shim size choices. So i would like to work the math and then double check it with the chart.

 

[crazybirddog]

Looks like what is frayed to me is the ground. I wonder if it grounds to the base of the sensor when it is screwed down? Do you have schematic for this part?

 

[concretejungle]

Looks like what is frayed to me is the ground. I wonder if it grounds to the base of the sensor when it is screwed down? Do you have schematic for this part?

Not for the part. I have a schematic showing it's location on the motor but not for the part itself.

 

[brokehunter]

Great build but not to put you down I've been building, I've built dozens of motors and can tell you that if you machined/polished the crank then those crank #'s your refering to for bearings are junk you will have to plastigauge for new bearings if you don't know this you have no business being in there. Also whenever you rehone a bore you are out of spec for those pistons you must buy oversized pistons, rings and have each bore machined to each piston "remember to number pistons and bores". No two pistons are ever the same tolerance, something you must understand to rebuild a motor that will last as long as oem. I can tell you from experience that what your doing will last maybe 30k-40k max before you start getting blowby sooner if turboed.

 

[landtank]

it's not uncommon for sensors of this type to have a shield on the wiring to stop outside interference. The black wire is likely attached to ground and the frayed part is the end of the shield.

 

[landtank]

Great build but not to put you down I've been building, I've built dozens of motors and can tell you that if you machined/polished the crank then those crank #'s your refering to for bearings are junk you will have to plastigauge for new bearings if you don't know this you have no business being in there. Also whenever you rehone a bore you are out of spec for those pistons you must buy oversized pistons, rings and have each bore machined to each piston "remember to number pistons and bores". No two pistons are ever the same tolerance, something you must understand to rebuild a motor that will last as long as oem. I can tell you from experience that what your doing will last maybe 30k-40k max before you start getting blowby sooner if turboed.

I don't think so.

 

[concretejungle]

Great build but not to put you down I've been building, I've built dozens of motors and can tell you that if you machined/polished the crank then those crank #'s your refering to for bearings are junk you will have to plastigauge for new bearings if you don't know this you have no business being in there. Also whenever you rehone a bore you are out of spec for those pistons you must buy oversized pistons, rings and have each bore machined to each piston "remember to number pistons and bores". No two pistons are ever the same tolerance, something you must understand to rebuild a motor that will last as long as oem. I can tell you from experience that what your doing will last maybe 30k-40k max before you start getting blowby sooner if turboed.

The crank was within spec and looked great. So we just cleaned it.

Same with the bores. we checked ring gap also; it was within spec; and i plasti-gauged two mains just to check, and they were in spec.

Thanks.

 

[crazybirddog]

Back to your wiring issue, I'm looking at the circuit for the crank position sensor, and it shows that there should be a light blue, brown, and a white w/ black stripe running to it. I can't find anything with red, white, and black. Weird.

 

[Tacoma4life]

No bites on the knock sensor?!

Well then lets talk about valve shims again.

I'm going to run through a scenario of one of my shims/valves and you guys tell me if i'm doing the math correct.

So i want to have an intake valve clearance of .008 in. I'm currently sitting at .011 in.

.011 - .008=.003 in difference between where i am and where i need to be.

.1130 in. is the current shim size that is in this valve and i need a shim that is .003 in. "thinner" so

.1130 - .003 = .1100 in. shim is what i need.

Look in the chart and the replacement shim #7 is .1102 in. So that's what i need for this valve? Correct?

Reason i'm asking is that I seem to be getting inconsistent results with the chart. Some of my measured clearances and measured shims are not in the chart (which means i'm going between or as close to a number as possible). It's also causing me to come up a few times with two shim size choices. So i would like to work the math and then double check it with the chart.

I think you have it backwards, a THINNER shim will give you a LARGER valve clearance.

Also remember as valves wear the clearance decreases, so I would put the spec towards the high end of the 'within spec' range. .010 would be ideal IMHO, but I wouldn't go all the way down to .008 which is right in the middle of the range.

For shim size, you just need to pick the most 'ideal' shim to get you within spec.

 

[concretejungle]

I think you have it backwards, a THINNER shim will give you a LARGER valve clearance.

Also remember as valves wear the clearance decreases, so I would put the spec towards the high end of the 'within spec' range. .010 would be ideal IMHO, but I wouldn't go all the way down to .008 which is right in the middle of the range.

For shim size, you just need to pick the most 'ideal' shim to get you within spec.

I was aiming for the middle since it took 230,000 miles to wear just this slight amount, i don't mind doing another valve job in 18 years.

 

[Tacoma4life]

I was aiming for the middle since it took 230,000 miles to wear just this slight amount, i don't mind doing another valve job in 18 years.

I gotcha, but you still need a THICKER shim to to lessen the clearance.