Build 1FZ-FE Rebuild full overhaul - picture heavy

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sbman said:
OK, I'll take the 5 yards and call a delay of game on myself. I didn't like the safety auto pistons so I returned th
em. Ordered a set of 0.5 over to go with my 0.5 over block from Cruiserdan. Probem solved. In the meantime, better prep some parts!

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Them's purdy!
 
I received some more parts, so more progress. Am still waiting for pistons to arrive, however AJIK overland exchange delivered this today:

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Installation is pretty straightforward. Line up the oil hole with the galley feed, not the bottom hole which is just a machining access hole, then drive it in with your hammer. Job done. I lined it up with the hole really nicely and didn't bottom it out, just stopped where the hole was lined up. Thanks @landtank for getting these oil pump idler bushings made, you are a lifesaver.

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I also went through the upper intake manifold and throttle body. Did all the FSM procedures to checkout every device attached to it, VSV's, throttle opener, egr temp sensor, etc... All checked out OK. Learned what each item is for and what it is called. Figured the names of some of the hoses that need to be replaced. Once parts come in, can finish it up and post before/after pics.
 
Pic of this?
 
EGR because if you ever get the dreaded 171 or 401 it needs to be tested or replaced and it just makes like easier to do both when it's more accessible. There are many threads about it.
 
NLXTACY said:
EGR because if you ever get the dreaded 171 or 401 it needs to be tested or replaced and it just makes like easier to do both when it's more accessible. There are many threads about it.
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Ahh, but do you make a relocation bracket? hmmm.
 
While I wait for piston, doing more prep and qualifying all of the parts going in. Time to measure ring gap. Following the FSM, you use a piston to push the ring down evenly into the bore, then use a feeler gauge to measure the gap. The gap specs are given for all three rings. I also used one ring to check the consistency of the bores by measuring the gap in each cylinder with the same ring. I was not able to detect a difference with my feeler gauges, the accuracy of machining is really impressive.

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The gaps on all rings were within spec and within the margin of error using feeler gauges, I could not tell the difference from ring to ring, they all measured the same.

Next up was to measure the connecting rod cap bolt diameters.

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I have a Mitutoyo micrometer that is accurate to .0001"
The smallest bolt was .3304", all are within spec for re-use.

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The last check for the evening was main cap bolt diameters. They also all passed with the smallest at .4233"

I ran across this note in the FSM, step 8.

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Yeah, I think I'll just use a new bearing from @landtank!
 
Super-informative! By your estimation, what's the cost split on parts vs labor?
 
jaymar said:
Super-informative! By your estimation, what's the cost split on parts vs labor?
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Aside from the machine shop time, the labor is all my time and effort. I'd estimate I'll have about 64 hours of actual wrenching time from removal (8 hrs) to rebuild (40 hours) to reinstall (16 hours). That doesn't count the other work I am doing like cooling system overhaul and AC overhaul. If I count parts cleaning, painting and prep that adds another 30 or 40 hours. If I had to pay a shop rate for that, there is no way I could do it, the labor would be 5K-10K. I would guess about 50/50 parts labor. That doesn't count trips for parts, research time, parts ordering, reading FSM, wasting time on MUD, etc... With a high level of detail it is a time consuming endeavor. I enjoy going out to the garage for a couple hours in the evening and working on it and I have plenty of other cars, so it's a hobby endeavor, not a 'get it done' job. It took me 1.5 hours last night to check gap of all rings in their bores, measure all of the connecting rod cap bolts and main cap bolts and make notes of all my measurements.
 
Wish I had heard about that oil pump bearing a few months ago.
 
An evening of thread chasing and dry fitting. Getting ready for pistons to arrive soon. One of them is coming from Japan.

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And what do we have here?

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That looks like a Cometic Multi Layer Steel head gasket!

One issue though. There is a rivet in the machined area. The instructions are pretty clear that isn't acceptable.

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Has anyone else seen this with the cometic? The other hold together rivets are OK.
 
Also discovered I don't appear to have a new distributor o-ring. I ordered everything I could find a reference for from the various rebuilds to replace all the seals and o-rings, but this one is MIA. Wondering if it is lost, or wasn't in the 'master kit'?
 
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