1FZ engine building and blueprinting

[scottryana]

Lots of good stuff!

I am going to be curious what your Ti rods end up weighing. JE doesn't even show a #38 in 0.669. 0.866 maybe? That is a huge change from the stock size of 1.024. What is the wall thickness? Did they give you a ball park on hp per cylinder?

Did you order longer rods since you are planning on stroking?

I really doubt you will need to dish the pistons. My 10:1's are basically flat with some small fly cuts. If you remove any material from the chamber I would say you would be hard pressed to get 10:1. I understand wanting to keep the squish areas, but I think I am going to go the other way. I am going to remove it all and unshroud the valves. If you look at the GENII 1FZ, they have gotten rid of the squish areas completely.

I would go OEM on all the other gaskets. I had @beno get me a complete set minus the HG so I wasn't paying for a head gasket twice. I would give him a ring.

Just began ordering parts.
Starting with a Crowe Stage 1 cam. It will be a good start and can adjust LSA with my adjustable sprocket if I decide to add turbo.
Interesting when talking to them. They will regtind your stock cams for $240. They can improve them a lot, but I decided on buying better grinds.
Now I can order pistons from JE with the right valve reliefs. Also ordered Titanium rods. Can't quite order crank yet a few more calcs are needed, going to get bearings and dial bore gauge rods and mains to get crank grind perfect.
Gonna be a long build, rods are 8 weeks and crank 10 weeks. Be patient.
Pistons will be 1.3 cd with JE #38 .669 pins, super light and super strong. Lots of calculations hope I get it right as it's a big cost. Thank god for Cometic custom gaskets as I can adjust slightly with thickness.
Trying to figure out how to get static compression to 10:1. May need to dish pistons, will be removing some material from chambers but don't think it will be enough. Don't want to mess with what little squish area that is available, or the stock swirl curves. Probably custom dish shape on pistons.
Any preferences on engine gasket sets out there, not including HG?

 

[hazard]

Lots of good stuff!

I am going to be curious what your Ti rods end up weighing. JE doesn't even show a #38 in 0.669. 0.866 maybe? That is a huge change from the stock size of 1.024. What is the wall thickness? Did they give you a ball park on hp per cylinder?

Did you order longer rods since you are planning on stroking?

I really doubt you will need to dish the pistons. My 10:1's are basically flat with some small fly cuts. If you remove any material from the chamber I would say you would be hard pressed to get 10:1. I understand wanting to keep the squish areas, but I think I am going to go the other way. I am going to remove it all and unshroud the valves. If you look at the GENII 1FZ, they have gotten rid of the squish areas completely.

I would go OEM on all the other gaskets. I had @beno get me a complete set minus the HG so I wasn't paying for a head gasket twice. I would give him a ring.

#38 is a custom dlc, their strongest pin, about $100 each. We are still working on final pin size, should have specs next week. I will design everything around a max HP of 500 and size pin and crank weight accordingly.
For the stroking I am using stock rod size so they can be of use if I decide to change stroke. We are achieving the room by using a piston cd of 1.3", JE says I can becomofortable going Even shorter if need be, will do final adjustments with HG thickness.
Going to be hard to get 10:1 with flat tops as it is a huge motor 5.59L. Static is 13.8:1 with flat tops and stock chamber. I have to find close to 30cc to get 10:1. Probably a combo of both. Will probably run meth injection also.
How big are you chambers now? Stock is about 72cc. You can do a pretty good ballpark with just a measuring cup and eyeball, probably within 5cc.
Thanks for gasket advice.

 

[scottryana]

Let me preface this and say the only reason I ask soooo many questions is not because I am questioning you, I just really like to understand what is going on.

Nice work BTW!

Yeah I know the #38 is their strongest it is 350M, I just thought 0.669 was awfully small and wondered what kind of wall thickness they were going to use. But going small would give you a lot of room. But it sounds like you should be fine. Just working the numbers off the top of my head.

Stock CD = 1.653in/41.99mm your 1.3in/33.02mm so that alone gives you 9mm more up travel so 18mm more stroke.

101mm bore x 95mm+18mm = 5432cc

Since you are saying you want 5.59L You must be going to 102mm x 114mm stroke = 5589cc's

You are really pushing to the edge! That is so cool!

Hmm I am getting a little bit less to get compression down to 10:1, with a 102mm bore 114mm stroke, 103mm headgasket that is 1.5mm thick, I am seeing around 18.5cc needed to remove to get to 10:1

Since I am thinking about going to the GENII combustion chamber shape which is basically having the machine shop machine the odd shapes and squish area out and going to a round 100mm my rough calculations show it should remove about 15.65cc's. This is kind of a WAG since it was done with calipers and 1mm graph paper but it should completely unshroud the valves and drop my 10:1 pistons down to about 8.8:1 which is quite a bit lower than I wanted but it is possible I also over estimated the amount of material being removed from the chamber. The shapes are odd and I overestimated to error on the side of caution.

I mean our engine is the only one that I know of that puts the squish areas between the valves. The modern multiple valve engines even cut this area as far back as possible and even dish out between the valves for flow. I think we can see between the GENI 80 head and even the GENII 105 head that the engineers decided the squish area was not as important.

#38 is a custom dlc, their strongest pin, about $100 each. We are still working on final pin size, should have specs next week. I will design everything around a max HP of 500 and size pin and crank weight accordingly.
For the stroking I am using stock rod size so they can be of use if I decide to change stroke. We are achieving the room by using a piston cd of 1.3", JE says I can becomofortable going Even shorter if need be, will do final adjustments with HG thickness.
Going to be hard to get 10:1 with flat tops as it is a huge motor 5.59L. Static is 13.8:1 with flat tops and stock chamber. I have to find close to 30cc to get 10:1. Probably a combo of both. Will probably run meth injection also.
How big are you chambers now? Stock is about 72cc. You can do a pretty good ballpark with just a measuring cup and eyeball, probably within 5cc.
Thanks for gasket advice.

 

[hazard]

I was just roughing in numbers. Yes 102x114.
Not actually sure about a few specs yet, should have it specked next week. Going to do short block and figure compression later. Once I figure what I need to remove I will decide but coming around to your way of thinking, probably chamber shaping.
Is that a pick of GEN 2 head? No free drop there, quite a bit on gen 1
Did you get my pm regarding sending you valves?

 

[hazard]

Wonder what the combustion process would be like comparing flat tops with squish to flat tops or domed with a pent roof that matches bore size? Way too scientific for me to figure, l will do what is easiest and hope it's right

 

[scottryana]

No that isn't a GENII head it was just a pic of a high performance multi valve head I had saved. Haha.

This is a GENII head. Ironically the squish pads are not gone, but they are machined away to allow better flow and no squish. I imagine removing them completely would have dropped compression too much?

I did get your PM, thanks! I know you want them back and I was just thinking I might also need them for some port shaping and wouldn't want to ding them up so I will check with the other guy that is doing a rebuild with Ferrera parts. Thanks though!

I was just roughing in numbers. Yes 102x114.
Not actually sure about a few specs yet, should have it specked next week. Going to do short block and figure compression later. Once I figure what I need to remove I will decide but coming around to your way of thinking, probably chamber shaping.
Is that a pick of GEN 2 head? No free drop there, quite a bit on gen 1
Did you get my pm regarding sending you valves?

 

[hazard]

No that isn't a GENII head it was just a pic of a high performance multi valve head I had saved. Haha.

This is a GENII head. Ironically the squish pads are not gone, but they are machined away to allow better flow and no squish. I imagine removing them completely would have dropped compression too much?

I did get your PM, thanks! I know you want them back and I was just thinking I might also need them for some port shaping and wouldn't want to ding them up so I will check with the other guy that is doing a rebuild with Ferrera parts. Thanks though!

I'll go that way as needed. Have to assume Toyo engineers know more than us. Will have to poke around through water jackets to see how much thickness is available. Do you think you have come close to water jackets yet?

 

[hazard]

Not

I'll go that way as needed. Have to assume Toyo engineers know more than us. Will have to poke around through water jackets to see how much thickness is available. Do you think you have come close to water jackets yet?

Not sure if you noticed but on stock chambers there is an undercut lip around intake valves. I was pondering this and it looks like it might help create some swirl or tumble. I think they had a reason for this, otherwise why not just cut flush. Think I might try to keep or create this.
Just ordered a nice electric flex cord grinder and can't wait to get started. Need something to do while waiting months for parts!

 

[scottryana]

I did notice, and I am not sure how easy it is to see on a used head but on a new head it appears to just be from the post casting machining, I don't think it was intentional. I tried to get a decent photo showing the machining and you can see the bunch of aluminum missing from the head and then the undercut just appears to be from the valve seat. I didn't go out of my way to get rid of it, but the machine shop will machine quite a bit of it out to fit the larger valves.

I think with the way they left the poorly machined runners thinking they did it intentionally maybe giving them too much credit. Lol

Not

Not sure if you noticed but on stock chambers there is an undercut lip around intake valves. I was pondering this and it looks like it might help create some swirl or tumble. I think they had a reason for this, otherwise why not just cut flush. Think I might try to keep or create this.
Just ordered a nice electric flex cord grinder and can't wait to get started. Need something to do while waiting months for parts!

 

[hazard]

Sorry, wasn't looking at area below the seat. I was talking on the chamber wall above the seat.
See photo, you will see the shadowed area. Looks like incoming flow will hit this area and be forced along curve aiming it to centre of chamber, it is very pronounced. Only on intake which makes sense. Looks like definitely on purpose or maybe just to increase squish area?
Just spent a few wasteful hours researching combustion chamber efficiency on the web. Very interesting, such as "Singh Grooves" which appear to be making a comeback, and the Jaguar "May Fireball" chamber that allowed 11.5:1 with 87 octane. Has me thinking!

 

[hazard]

Some Singh grooves and dimpling. Wish I owned a dyno and had lots of money and time!

 

[scottryana]

Oh yeah, I really did not change the shape of any of the runners, I just cleaned up the casting flash, the parting lines, matches the gaskets and polished things up.

I have also spent more time than I want to admit looking at combustion chambers. It is a little difficult to get an apples to apples comparison because a 4" dual over head cam combustion chamber isn't super common. I looked at the Mustang GT350R chamber which is very nice and all CNC'd. I looked at the Supra since it is a similar vintage I6. I checked out the 1UZ and 3UR. etc.

It seems that Toyota seems to put the large squish areas in "truck" engines. Which makes since, as it is to get the air moving in the cylinder when you don't have a lot of fast moving air. But if you look at the Supra head there is zero squish area intruding into the combustion chamber.

I am not going to do the full 100mm circle like I was thinking I really want to be around 9.5-9.75:1 so I think this is the shape I will shoot for.....

Sorry, wasn't looking at area below the seat. I was talking on the chamber wall above the seat.
See photo, you will see the shadowed area. Looks like incoming flow will hit this area and be forced along curve aiming it to centre of chamber, it is very pronounced. Only on intake which makes sense. Looks like definitely on purpose or maybe just to increase squish area?
Just spent a few wasteful hours researching combustion chamber efficiency on the web. Very interesting, such as "Singh Grooves" which appear to be making a comeback, and the Jaguar "May Fireball" chamber that allowed 11.5:1 with 87 octane. Has me thinking!

View attachment 1534112

 

[hazard]

Oh yeah, I really did not change the shape of any of the runners, I just cleaned up the casting flash, the parting lines, matches the gaskets and polished things up.

I have also spent more time than I want to admit looking at combustion chambers. It is a little difficult to get an apples to apples comparison because a 4" dual over head cam combustion chamber isn't super common. I looked at the Mustang GT350R chamber which is very nice and all CNC'd. I looked at the Supra since it is a similar vintage I6. I checked out the 1UZ and 3UR. etc.

It seems that Toyota seems to put the large squish areas in "truck" engines. Which makes since, as it is to get the air moving in the cylinder when you don't have a lot of fast moving air. But if you look at the Supra head there is zero squish area intruding into the combustion chamber.

I am not going to do the full 100mm circle like I was thinking I really want to be around 9.5-9.75:1 so I think this is the shape I will shoot for.....

Nice work

 

[scottryana]

Oh that's not my head! That's a new Ford Mustang GT350R head. It is fully CNC'd from the factory. But our head has the same general shape, and just opening it up a little will unshroud the valves and keep some of the squish area.

Nice work

 

[Toyotamech]

Scott, it may take me a little but I could send you some.

 

[hazard]

Pistons ordered from JE. Download the attached PDF for a fun 3D view.
Specs:
102 mm bore
Dish will net 10-10.5 CR with the size of this engine, depending on how much I remove from chambers.
Lightened wherever possible approximate finished weight 346 gms
Pin is 0.708 dia, 0.140 wall, 2.05" long and 65 gms
Has contact reduction grooves, accumulator groove, double pin oilers, DLC coated pin bores (no need on pins also), Thermal Barrier on top, friction coating on sides, offset pins.
Ring grooves are done on a special basis with more exacting tolerances and hard anodized.
Rings included, not their absolute top of line but very high Q, Premium Race Series.
As these are a special unusual custom order they will go through their Critical Order Process which measures to tighter tolerances than usual.
Should be here in a few weeks as they say 2-3 weeks guaranteed. Will post pics when they arrive.
However I will have to stare at them for a long while as crank and rods are 10 weeks or more away.
I measured with stock stroke so I can begin clearancing the block somewhat for the stroker, lots to do.

 

[hazard]

Final Calcs for compression etc:
Stock rod length 6.063, and deck height 9.585.
Bore @ 102mm
Stroke 114mm
72 cc chamber for now, may need to add some volume by shaping/grinding, in final calcs.
Aproximate piston dish inc valve reliefs etc will be 20cc. Won't know for sure until I receive pistons, they weren't sure they could go that big.
0.040" head gasket
0 deck piston height.
Piston CD of 1.278"
This will net a compression of aprox 10-10.5:1.
I will not know for sure until I decide how much, if any, I need to deck block and head to get straight. If so this will change deck height and I will adjust with head gasket. Shooting for a squish band of 0.035-0.040"

 

[hazard]

Just picked up a new 80 so I have something to do while waiting for engine parts, and a patient for the new engine transplant.
$6,200 Canadian. Has stock lockers an a OME lift, front bumper w winch. Missing only running boards.
Pretty rough shape cosmetically and inside, tons of oil leaks etc
Plan for a frame off full restomod to a luxury Cruiser including my stroker engine, will start a thread when I start.
USA model but has Gold emblems and wood dash and armrest trim like the Lexus but not any on console, grey interior, green exterior.
Anyone know why the gold trim and wood? does it signify anything? Haven't seen many like that except LX450?

 

[scottryana]

The wood trim installed in the Land Cruisers were a dealer/port installed option and not the same quality as the LX. You usually see them faded and discolored while the LX trim seems to last quite well. Because of this most people pull the wood trim off of the LC's. The gold trim was part of the gold package. I am not sure if you can still get the emblems but last I looked they were pretty expensive because they thinly platted with real gold I think.

 

[ThomasMore66]

My 1997 had the wood and it was removed. Under the wood was all of the same labeling for the windows, etc. Looks a little more modern to me. My 1994 still has all the wood because, well, it's a cream-puff.