1FZ engine building and blueprinting (2 Viewers)

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Yes it is or you have a typo. Lol. 4" bore is 101.6mm 4.5" stroke is 114.3mm, the displacement for a 6 cylinder this size is 5.560L, not 4.566L. Lol

No not wrong. Looking at 4" bore by 4.5 inch stroke. Won't know final until block is decked. Just rough numbers for now. Will post once all details are calculated
 
I'll wait until fall. Curious how this works out
 
I know you are away, but if you want to measure a few more things, could you get an accurate length on the stock valves, and then a good average thickness on the buckets and shims.

I have seen
98.10mm Supertech
98.250mm Ferrea
100mm Manley

and buckets and shims kind of all over the place. From a combined 5.00mm-10.40mm.
 
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I know you are away, but if you want to measure a few more things, could you get an accurate length on the stock valves, and then a good average thickness on the buckets and shims.

I have seen
98.10mm Supertech
98.250mm Ferrea
100mm Manley

and buckets and shims kind of all over the place. From a combined 5.00mm-10.40mm.

Hi
Did some quick measuring but need more idea of what you want and how accurate. The valve train is worn so measurements are a bit different on each piece. Cant use micrometer on valves as they are dished so had to use caliper.
Shims are all different, each has a code number on it (see pic below) with respect to unworn thickness but they range from about 2.5-2.7mm on my engine, there is a shim thickness chart from Toyota, do you have it? If not I can send, but here is the short list:
Shims are available in 17 sized in increments of 0.05 mm

(0.0020 in.), from 2.50 mm (0.0984 in.) to 3.30 mm (0.1299 in.).

I didn't go for too much accuracy, If you need I will use a mic on the buckets for you
Buckets are 26.32 tall, 33.62 diameter (Toy spec 33.966-33.976). Caliper measure.
Bucket thickness, which is probably what you want if you are specing valve train stuff as you will add that to shims to get lash, was variable due to wear but was about 3.45mm, using micrometer.
I will get valves shortly.
IMG_3785.JPG
IMG_3786.JPG
 
No you got it perfectly, the 3.45mm of the bucket + the 2.50-3.30mm of the shims gives me just what I was looking for. So a total thickness of 5.95mm to 6.75mm of shim ability.

The shimless buckets I want to use are 7.88mm so they will need to be machined. Or the tips of the valves will.
 
Just measured valves.
Toyota spec intake is 97.9-98.4mm, Exh 97.4-97.9
I cleaned and measured 4 each of mine.
Intake 98.28-98.33
exh 97.9-97.95
I don't suppose it really matters what length you get (97-100 or so), within reason, as it will all be adjusted with shimming. Although it would slightly change valvespring pressures dending on retainers etc. I would just buy whichever brand you are comfortable with. I am very likely to go Ti, not for the rev factor, but more so that I can run really low spring pressures and lower wear and friction, gonna be super expensive, but this is a money no object project. Block is at machinist now.
What stage are you at, did you decide on cam yet?

IMG_3793.JPG
IMG_3795.JPG
 
Well depending on what shims you are using the valve length will be important. If you end up with a 100mm valve you will not be able to use the DLC shimless buckets that I would plan on running because you wouldn't be able to get shims thin enough to fit under the cams.

The Ferrea valves are close but a touch longer than stock. I think I can still make it work, by tipping the valves just slightly and having the shimless buckets machined.

I have a set of cams already but snapped one of them.... So I will have to order another set. Huge bummer for sure.

Just measured valves.
Toyota spec intake is 97.9-98.4mm, Exh 97.4-97.9
I cleaned and measured 4 each of mine.
Intake 98.28-98.33
exh 97.9-97.95
I don't suppose it really matters what length you get (97-100 or so), within reason, as it will all be adjusted with shimming. Although it would slightly change valvespring pressures dending on retainers etc. I would just buy whichever brand you are comfortable with. I am very likely to go Ti, not for the rev factor, but more so that I can run really low spring pressures and lower wear and friction, gonna be super expensive, but this is a money no object project. Block is at machinist now.
What stage are you at, did you decide on cam yet?

View attachment 1517693 View attachment 1517694
 
Sent my stock cams to Crower. They have measured and it appears I was a bit off on my measurements, although they did compliment me by saying I was very accurate considering I was using hand tools and measuring of the crank with chain stretch etc.
They had:
Int lobe lift 0.3394"
Exhaust Lobe lift 0.33968"
I had averaged mine all out to 0.340.
They had duration at 0.05 of 199.38 degrees on intake and 191.35 degrees on exhaust
They had advertised duration at 275.48 Int and 275.08 on Exh
I had @ .050 188.5 & 186
At advertised 231 & 221.

For the engine I want to build he is still reviewing head flow etc but has suggested I go with a custom master which is more refined than their stock offerings and has no built in advance. He says their stock offerings are more for people who will drop it in and go without degreeing properly or have given serious component mix consideration.
They are suggesting either 205 duration with slow ramp 0.347 lift, or 204 duration with fast ramp 0.328 lift. He says the fast ramp will provide about 3-4 more HP but require more maintenance and be noisier. Interesting.
I will post cam card when decision made, after that I will be able to order pistons with correct flycut, and then crankshaft.
 
Any updates? I've been swapping emails with Robbie Antonson regarding overhauling my 1997's engine. I'm hoping he has a line on a Magnuson SC that we can add to the mix. I just felt I need to run down this path before I decided if I was going LS. I'd still like to stay Toyota.
 
Did you break something?
 
No I just want to have a stock setup in the one cylinder I use to flow bench. Since I bought a bare head I would have to buy stock valves just to flow bench.

Did you break something?
 
i can send you a junk head if you want. its rusty as hell but would good to play around with.
 
I really don't need a whole head, but if you want to pull a set of valves out that would be great

i can send you a junk head if you want. its rusty as hell but would good to play around with.
 
No I sure haven't been able to talk anyone into giving me a set yet. If you are cool with it, just PM your PayPal address and I can send you some money. Or there is another guy here that just bought new Ferrera valves I can check with him first if you want to keep your stock valves.

If

you haven't got any yet I can send you a set. You just pay postage.
 
Just began ordering parts.
Starting with a Crowe Stage 1 cam. It will be a good start and can adjust LSA with my adjustable sprocket if I decide to add turbo.
Interesting when talking to them. They will regtind your stock cams for $240. They can improve them a lot, but I decided on buying better grinds.
Now I can order pistons from JE with the right valve reliefs. Also ordered Titanium rods. Can't quite order crank yet a few more calcs are needed, going to get bearings and dial bore gauge rods and mains to get crank grind perfect.
Gonna be a long build, rods are 8 weeks and crank 10 weeks. Be patient.
Pistons will be 1.3 cd with JE #38 .669 pins, super light and super strong. Lots of calculations hope I get it right as it's a big cost. Thank god for Cometic custom gaskets as I can adjust slightly with thickness.
Trying to figure out how to get static compression to 10:1. May need to dish pistons, will be removing some material from chambers but don't think it will be enough. Don't want to mess with what little squish area that is available, or the stock swirl curves. Probably custom dish shape on pistons.
Any preferences on engine gasket sets out there, not including HG?
 
No I sure haven't been able to talk anyone into giving me a set yet. If you are cool with it, just PM your PayPal address and I can send you some money. Or there is another guy here that just bought new Ferrera valves I can check with him first if you want to keep your stock valves.
I would like to keep if you can get others, but no prob if you need them. I could use the flow numbers also. You could always send them back when done. Let me know as I could mail Monday
 

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