1FZ-FE Engine Build (4 Viewers)

[matthewscruiser]

Bingo, homie.

Solid work on the hardware as well. Most people pussy-out on the hardware. The hardware is where the detail lies.

It definitely adds up, but I didn’t come this far to have rusty bolts! Although, I did cheat and bought a bag of 30 JIS M8x1.25 zinc flange nuts. The heads are 12mm like factory. Everything else was from Toyota besides the EGR plate studs on the cylinder head.

 

[OGBeno]

It definitely adds up, but I didn’t come this far to have rusty bolts! Although, I did cheat and bought a bag of 30 JIS M8x1.25 zinc flange nuts. The heads are 12mm like factory. Everything else was from Toyota besides the EGR plate studs on the cylinder head.

Boo. Location and duty specific! Like aerospace!

 

[voorland80]

beautiful and awsum doc

 

[OGBeno]

Well, it's time for some finishing touches on the engine.

I installed a new Aisin WPT023 water pump using x2 90080-10249 bolts, x2 91511-B0860 bolts, and x2 90179-08040 nuts. For some reason, mine didn't come with studs, so I installed x4 90116-08112 studs using two M8x1.25 nuts. Then, ensure the surface is clean, place the OEM supplied gasket and water pump on the engine, install hardware and torque them all to 15 ft-lb.

Install the water pump pulley (163716-6020) and fan clutch using x4 90179-08040 nuts.

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Instead of the 90179-08040 flange nuts, I would use the 90179-08123 flange nuts that have built in serrations on the flange side vs. the 90179-08040's that are flat. Just a friendly recommendation.

 

[matthewscruiser]

Removed engine from the stand today.

Cleaned rear crankshaft flange/threads. Installed front spacer, new flexplate (32101-60050), and a new rear spacer (32117-60040) with new flexplate bolts (x10 90105-12244).

None of these parts really need to be new except the flexplate bolts (unless your flexplate is bent or cracked). The FSM says to torque the bolts to 74 ft-lb in the sequence shown in several passes. I did 25 ft-lb, 50 ft-lb, then 74 ft-lb.

 

[matthewscruiser]

Well, I pulled the old power train and installed the new engine/refreshed transmission (see my other thread)/and resealed my transfer case. Took 18 days.

It started the first crank and has excellent oil pressure. I’ve got 100 miles on it so far with no leaks. No check engine lights or issues with my EGR system.

I only have one issue with it. The oil is so clear that it’s hard to read the dipstick

 

[matthewscruiser]

More pictures

 

[matthewscruiser]

here’s some pics before everything went in, and one with the old power train removed

 

[OGBeno]

Great job. Congrats.

 

[matthewscruiser]

My only unexpected hurdle during the swap was a boogered flare nut on the hard fuel supply line. It was over tightened at some point and got stuck during the removal process.

Ordered a new M14x1.5 flare nut for a 5/16” hardline, cut the old flare off, slid the new nut on, and made a nice double flare.

 

[whiteyota]

Beautiful work, and Thank You for documenting your build the way you did.
I am about a month away from doing my engine build, just made the last big purchase from Partsouq.
What break in oil are you using?

 

[matthewscruiser]

Beautiful work, and Thank You for documenting your build the way you did.
I am about a month away from doing my engine build, just made the last big purchase from Partsouq.
What break in oil are you using?

After thinking about break in oil long and hard, I landed on plain rotella T4 15w-40. These are not flat tappet cam engines that require extremely high zinc found in “break in oil” or “break in oil additives”. Besides, the rotella already has elevated zinc levels

I do believe a regular, conventional oil is a good idea for break in while the rings seat.

I’m doing my first 1,000 miles on T4, then 2,000 more miles on T4, then swapping over to T6 15w40 on 4000-5000 mile intervals.

 

[matthewscruiser]

After thinking about break in oil long and hard, I landed on plain rotella T4 15w-40. These are not flat tappet cam engines that require extremely high zinc found in “break in oil” or “break in oil additives”. Besides, the rotella already has elevated zinc levels

I do believe a regular, conventional oil is a good idea for break in while the rings seat.

I’m doing my first 1,000 miles on T4, then 2,000 more miles on T4, then swapping over to T6 15w40 on 4000-5000 mile intervals.

I’ll add something that I believe is more important than oil choice—oil priming.

Number 1 is make sure you prime the oil pump as described in the FSM during engine assembly.

Then, Prior to engine start, I used a syringe to add oil in both passages behind the oil filter. It didn’t take much, but I think every bit counts.

Then, I filled the oil filter completely and installed. (Place a towel to catch the oil that spills as you install)

Then, I disconnected the fuel pump relay and distributor connector.

I cranked the starter for 10 seconds, let it cool 5 minutes, then repeated until I got oil pressure. I got oil pressure halfway through the 3rd cranking.

I reconnected the distributor and fuel pump relay and started the engine with perfect oil pressure!

 

[csanders]

Great job on the engine and documentation! I'm rebuilding the engine in my '94 and this thread has been super helpful to supplement alongside the FSM steps. I also went the new short block route and appreciate the detailed writeup. Enjoy the break-in drives!

 

[matthewscruiser]

Great job on the engine and documentation! I'm rebuilding the engine in my '94 and this thread has been super helpful to supplement alongside the FSM steps. I also went the new short block route and appreciate the detailed writeup. Enjoy the break-in drives!

Thank you! I wish I had more time to document the installation process, but I just needed to get my 80 back on the road as quick as possible so I wasn’t borrowing another car. I hope you enjoy your new engine! I had a blast building mine and am grateful I had the opportunity to do it.

Thank you! We will see what oil analysis has to say after the first oil change and then I will feel more “in the clear”!

 

[96TOYLAND]

Excellent work, thanks for sharing all the pictures and documenting. My car has almost 300k and soon I might need to rebuild

 

[matthewscruiser]

Excellent work, thanks for sharing all the pictures and documenting. My car has almost 300k and soon I might need to rebuild

Absolutely! Thanks for the reply. I understand. I’m building my sister a 1FZ-FE now for her ‘95.

I think they liked the way mine drives after the new engine and transmission refresh. It sure is powerful compared to the old engine, I noticed it doesn’t bog down and shift to third gear on big hills on the interstate anymore.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

What was the total cost of the rebuild as shown?

 

[matthewscruiser]

What was the total cost of the rebuild as shown?

I’ll have to add it up later and see. I’ve been meaning to get an exact number and post my parts list here. The hard part is that mine turned into more of a powertrain and AC system overhaul at the same time.

The ballpark for the engine portion of my build is $8,000-$9,000. I’m pretty careful where I shop and have a great dealer here in Birmingham. The only labor I paid for was the machine shop to head work.

That price doesn’t include things that I reused because they were basically new when I removed the engine. (Radiator, coolant hoses, alternator, etc)

It is easy to do an exceptional rebuild for $5,000 to $7,000. That’s what we are shooting for with my sister’s.

All in all, I would do everything the same if I did it again. I’d rather spend $10k-$11k to have a powertrain that’s ready to go 400k miles than buy a good newer car that’ll probably cost me far more than I have in the LX450.

Other than some of the transmission internals (which are low mileage), every single bearing and seal in my powertrain is new. Every suspension bushing is new. It sure does drive great!

 

[Malleus]

FWIW, I pulled a 300k A343F apart in my son's 2000 LX470. Every gear had failed (I insisted he drive it until it died, because I had intended to go through it with a fine tooth comb).

I was disappointed when I opened the overhaul kit and didn't see any bearings, since all 13 are small needle bearings. Despite the very nasty condition of the oil and the fact that every clutch was gone, along with most of the steels, every bearing was pristine. Some of the sprag fingers in one or two clutches had discoloration on them, but no damage. Those transmissions really are very well designed.