1983 Rear brake job questions.

[fjgdk]

Not that you could have helped it, but the drum should not be put on such that the holes in the drum line up with those holes in the axle flange.
That ring is just a dust ring. Just take a c-clamp or a set of vice grip style welding clamps and flatten the dust ring out in that area.and you'll be fine.

Whew ! Glad to hear it isnt too major of a problem . I actually did just what you said (flatten everything as best I can) and everything seems to rotate OK.

While I wasnt the one who put the drum on that way, I myself will be cognizant not to donthe same thing.

Also, I think I will go the battery cable route for that severed ground to the teansfer case. A battery cable seems to be beefier in terms of insulation.

Also, I went to put the thermo sensor on the cat and I couldnt, the line/hose with the sensor wasnt long enough. I realized I dont have a stock cat, it is small and cyindrical, not the oem "flattened square".

 

[Stumpalama]

This is the best I can do regarding th thermo sensor: fj60 exhaust thermo sensor - Google Search
I got an aftermarket one with the thermo sensor port like 15 years ago and it is still going strong.

 

[Stumpalama]

6 Cylinder 1981 TOYOTA Catalytic Converters

 

[fjgdk]

So I've been soaking the drum in evapo-rust these past couple days, it's coming along ok.

I am going to go back at it today, despite the heat. Before I start though, can I actually take the bell crank off (which I will soak in evapo-rust) without taking the shoes etc. off the truck ? I'd rather wait until I get all the OEM parts I ordered from amayama and have this bell crank working and park the truck off to the side than have to disassemble/reassemble twice.

 

[Stumpalama]

Maybe a little late, but I think you can. Is it an HOA issue? Just curious.

 

[fjgdk]

Maybe a little late, but I think you can. Is it an HOA issue? Just curious.

No its not an HOA issue, but I dont like the truck hogging half the carport for anyear for my housemate's sake and because more painting is to occur in the caroort once ainget it out.

I ended up taking it off but had tontake the shoes etc off to do it. The two bolts that fasten it on are blocked by the shoes. Everything is evapo-rusting and I will bite the bullet and get aftermarket shoes and hardware to get it done quicker.

I wish I could do both sides now; saving time on the de-rusting. I dont trust myself being able to do one side without looking at the other though.

Here is the culprit bell crank, corroded as all heck.

 

[Stumpalama]

Try to get new boots for the bell cranks and put a good amount of grease in the boot to help keep the water off the parts.

 

[fjgdk]

This is what I came to say, just finished my rears but still have to cleanup the bell cranks so they'll work freely and re-install.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

I don't know if you have easy access to the drums anymore, but can you tell me what the product stamping was on your new centric brake shoes ?


I've been reading up on what these mean and it seems pretty important to line up with the manufacturer's specs. The DOT has a spec for these stampings, which are three parts:
1) Manufacturer
2) Standardized bonding material code
3) Coefficient of friction code


My shoes are "NBK LN508 FF"

NBK is the manufacturer, LN508 is the adhesive type code and FF is the coefficient of friction code which can be translated via:

DOT Pad Codes

If I go aftermarket I want to ensure I have the same stamp (sans manufacturer) as the Toyota shoes.

Here is a photo of mine with the codes on the side of the shoes:

 

[Ian Crawford]

I wont be able to pull them off today. Honestly I wouldn't worry about that too much. They're bound to be very close and bottom line is drum brakes aren't very efficient, most of your stopping will come from the front.

I wouldn't over think it. The automotive industry is heavily regulated and I doubt a brand like Centric would risk skimping by with something that doesn't at least meet DOT regs.

I will probably have the drums back apart this week. I will snap a photo for you when I do.

 

[fjgdk]

I wont be able to pull them off today. Honestly I wouldn't worry about that too much. They're bound to be very close and bottom line is drum brakes aren't very efficient, most of your stopping will come from the front.

I wouldn't over think it. The automotive industry is heavily regulated and I doubt a brand like Centric would risk skimping by with something that doesn't at least meet DOT regs.

I will probably have the drums back apart this week. I will snap a photo for you when I do.

I just called advanced auto about one of their aftermarket shoes that was supposed to be "oem or better". It was friction coefficient rated FE which is NOT as good as the OEM FF rating.

Napa Premium is the only one I've called about that has FF rated shoes.

While a lesser rating will work, Toyota must have a brake fade spec desire for FF for these trucks.

 

[Comet]

I have ordered the NAPA premium shoes to go on mine. Awaiting the slow parts truck from Michigan. I agree with Ian, really a non-issue for me with drums.

 

[fjgdk]

I would like to understand the thought Toyota had in using non-similar metals for the bell crank. The corrosion was not the type my beloved evapo-rust takes off, more like that which you see around battery terminals (white powdery crap). I wire wheeled the thing and noticed that the aluminum housing had a seperable piece in it. In its removal I destroyed that piece. There is also now a crack in the housing.

I'd like to try the Dorman aftermarket piece that is a fit for Tacoma's and Tundras.

www.rbinc.com/p-54405-924-753.aspx

It looks the same to me.

 

[Ian Crawford]

I'm about to do the same thing to mine! I'm with you on the metal insert, I'm sure it was to help prevent wear on the Aluminum but if you didn't work the handbrake daily and pack the boots with grease, it sure wouldn't take long to corrode.

Sorry I haven't gotten you any photos of the Centric shoes but it's been rainy here and I haven't had time to mess with it. Likely Saturday.

 

[fjgdk]

I'm about to do the same thing to mine! I'm with you on the metal insert, I'm sure it was to help prevent wear on the Aluminum but if you didn't work the handbrake daily and pack the boots with grease, it sure wouldn't take long to corrode.

Sorry I haven't gotten you any photos of the Centric shoes but it's been rainy here and I haven't had time to mess with it. Likely Saturday.

About "packing it full of grease"; you don't want to do it with grease that has metal, like the Molybdenum disulphide ("Moly") greases used for birfields, bearings etc.. Dissimilar metals will react with salts, hence the corrosion we have on our bell cranks. Introducing yet another metal through certain lubricating products will actually cause the grease to be a part of the "freezing" (I've read about it here on MUD and the chemistry of it makes sense).

The FSM only calls for "Lithium base soap grease" on the rubber boot. I have the Toyota version of this and it seems to be rubber-nourishing grease (aka "red rubber grease" outside of the Toyota brand). That doesn't have metal in it.

I am thinking to go with the red rubber grease on the whole thing or syl-glide on the whole thing or a combo of the two (red rubber grease on the boot and syl-glide on the metal parts). I am not too keen on mixing grease's though.

Also, seems the Dorman setup does not cross reference with FJ60 part #'s (it's at the bottom of the page).

Amayama is showing a pic of the current OEM housings, they look a little different than mine color wise but I am sure that is just due to the wire-wheel making mine look shiny.

Bracket (has photos):
Toyota 47628-35020 (4762835020) BRACKET STEEL: Photos, Buy genuine car parts - Amayama

LH and RH pieces (no photos just price):
Toyota 47624-60010 (4762460010) BRACKET STEEL: Buy genuine car parts - Amayama
Toyota 47625-60010 (4762560010) BRACKET STEEL: Buy genuine car parts - Amayama

 

[Comet]

Has anyone contacted @beno for Toyota parts? I believe he is reopening after his relocation soon? Not only have I gotten OEM but I have picked his brain regarding what has to be Toyota and what can be after market. He has been a great resource to me personally.

 

[fjgdk]

Has anyone contacted @beno for Toyota parts? I believe he is reopening after his relocation soon? Not only have I gotten OEM but I have picked his brain regarding what has to be Toyota and what can be after market. He has been a great resource to me personally.

Well I may just go ahead and order the OEM from Amayama. The prices are usually incredible due to the strength of the dollar.

The downside is ordering from the UAE took up to 4 weeks, from Japan about a week.

 

[fjgdk]

I am at Advance Auto buying the early 1990's Tacoma fit bell crank. It seems to be identical to the FJ60 one, except for the size of the springs. The thickness etc seems to match though.

Dorman Products - 924-753

 

[fjgdk]

Just realized Dorman has an exact replacement, just not in stock anywhere near me. I think I can get it from Auto-zone pretty quick.

Toyota part number 47624-35020
Dorman number 924-750

 

[60Works]

Not sure if anyone answered you about the non-reusable C clips. Use the thicker ones. It's actually fairly important as the self adjuster can sometimes malfunction and over tighten the shoes. If the thin top plate that touches the star wheel is loose from too thin a C clip it can cant slightly allowing it to turn the star even when it shouldn't.

It's not 'best practice' but they can be reused if you were careful in removing it. Best to use an OEM replacement for that part in particular.

Enjoying your thread. Good tech coming from lots of Mudders. Thanks

 

[Ian Crawford]

A little delayed but as promised. Here's the markings on the Centric shoes I purchased from Rockauto.

I also now have a working e-brake! I'll post an update in my thread (linked in signature).