Slide a vinyl cap or clamped rubber hose over the flared end. There is no way (as you indicated) to 'pinch off' a hardline (at least not twice 
)
)
1983 Rear brake job questions. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter fjgdk
- Start date
-
- Tags
- drums fj60 rear axle rear brakes
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
Yes of course I am not going to pinch off the hard lines! I was simply asking if there is some special way to stop the fluid because of the fact you can't pinch them off. Sounds like what I was going to do - attach a sofr bleeder line and stop THAT off, is what others are doing.
- Thread starter
- #43
Trying to take off the e brake cable so I can fix the bell cranks and not have much else.
Underneath the truck where the cable comes out from the cab by the transfer case there is a black wire that appeara to have been grounded to the xfer case. Is this simply for the brake light or something ?
Also, there was some unattached metal rod that appears to go through the floor to the parking brake lever area. Any idea what it is for ?
Underneath the truck where the cable comes out from the cab by the transfer case there is a black wire that appeara to have been grounded to the xfer case. Is this simply for the brake light or something ?
Also, there was some unattached metal rod that appears to go through the floor to the parking brake lever area. Any idea what it is for ?
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
picture 1 is a ground wire... keep it, it is meant to be there.
picture 2 & 3 are of the thermo sensor that normally went into the catalytic converter. are you desmogged?
picture 2 & 3 are of the thermo sensor that normally went into the catalytic converter. are you desmogged?
- Thread starter
- #45
Ok thanks. I appreciate the quick answers !
I wasnt intending to take anything off, in fact I was asking because I want to fix them.
The grounding wire was severed and needs replacement. Any idea the part name (brake light grounding wire maybe?)?
I dont know if the truck was desmogged, but I wouldnt know how to tell. There is what looks like a standard cat in the exhaust circuit and there are all the small hoses in a "hornets nest" under the hood that I understand is all for emissions stuff. I assume it wasnt desmogged based on that.
I was simply under the truck looking at things before I dove into the brake cable. The sensor was sitting in a metal rib unattached to anything. I pulled it out with no resistance. I am going to have to look for a hole somewhere that it SHOULD go in.
- Thread starter
- #46
That thermal sensor had some light rust on it. Is it normally in a sealed area where it wouldn't rust ? Can I simply put this one back in the cat or wherever it goes or is it toast and I should get a new one ?
I am thinking that this thing was pulled with the wiring harness that it connects to when I first purchased the truck and had it Rhino-lined. It probably was a simple forgetful mistake by the guy who did the Rhino-lining.
I am thinking that this thing was pulled with the wiring harness that it connects to when I first purchased the truck and had it Rhino-lined. It probably was a simple forgetful mistake by the guy who did the Rhino-lining.
- Thread starter
- #48
So to take the bell crank off without affecting the rest of the brake drum setup, do I have to remove the parking brake cable in totality (front the front lever to where it connects to the bell cranks, or just from the bell cranks to a certain point (like where it "splits" in the back of the truck to the rear wheels)?
After looking at the 80-83 FSM and 84 FSM and the physical layout of the cable under the truck, I decided to tackle taking off the drums of the wheel that wouldn't rotate first. After moving the adjuster and hitting the bell crank into the position it SHOULD be in with the parking brake off, the wheel rotated again ! I was unsuccessful in getting the drum off though, despite hitting it with a bfh a lot and putting 8x1.25 bolts in the "push-off" holes.
I decided to soak the thing in PG blaster around it's perimeter and where it contacts the axle. Hopefully tomorrow the bfs and screws will work. The wheel on the other side was what I was able to successfully remove the drum off of before.
After looking at the 80-83 FSM and 84 FSM and the physical layout of the cable under the truck, I decided to tackle taking off the drums of the wheel that wouldn't rotate first. After moving the adjuster and hitting the bell crank into the position it SHOULD be in with the parking brake off, the wheel rotated again ! I was unsuccessful in getting the drum off though, despite hitting it with a bfh a lot and putting 8x1.25 bolts in the "push-off" holes.
I decided to soak the thing in PG blaster around it's perimeter and where it contacts the axle. Hopefully tomorrow the bfs and screws will work. The wheel on the other side was what I was able to successfully remove the drum off of before.
- Thread starter
- #50
Thanks a lot ! This is just what I need.
What affect will inserting a used very lightly rusted one back in have on the overall operation ? Also, is the upside-down U shaped thing in the diagram for 17400A a cover for the hole ?
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
I just wanted to make sure you kept the ground cable. You can just go to the auto parts store and get a battery cable that is the same length as the original cable, or make your own.
As far as the brake drum goes, the lip of the drum is probably hanging up on on the shoes. You probably need to back the adjuster off with that new tool you got.. you may want to spray PB blaster in the hole of to soak the adjuster before trying to adjust it, since they tend to freeze up.
As far as the brake drum goes, the lip of the drum is probably hanging up on on the shoes. You probably need to back the adjuster off with that new tool you got.. you may want to spray PB blaster in the hole of to soak the adjuster before trying to adjust it, since they tend to freeze up.
- Thread starter
- #53
I am looking right now for the oem wire; I want it to be the intended length and gauge.
I actually was able to use the adjuster to allow the wheel to spin again (and after I hit the bell crank into the proper position).
You are probably right about the edge of the drums, unworn, getting caught on the shoes. I will try to back off even more if possible.
- Thread starter
- #54
Thanks alot to everyone for the help, Inam looking forward to digging into this tommorrow and over the weekend.
- Thread starter
- #55
I went out this morning to try and back off the adjuster with no dice. I used my snake camera to get a better view and the adjuster does look rusty as you said so I sprayed some PB Blaster in it and hopefully will be good to go when I come back to it later today.
Also, should I be pushing the flat piece that stops the adjuster from the top or bottom ?
One side is left hand thread, the other right hand thread. Check the FSM.
- Thread starter
- #57
I was actually referring to the lever on the screw, which way should I be trying to push it ? "Up and away" or "Down and away" from the reference point of looking at the access cover from the back of the backing plate (not the front of the backing plate )?
- Thread starter
- #58
Aghh! Well I got the drum off but not after causing what might be a bigger headache.
After backing off the adjuster some more the drum still wouldnt come off. I put a bolt in one of the "push-off" holes but unfortunately I busted a hole through the metal plate at the back of the axle flange. Can I simply bend this back as much as possible such that the metal protrusions I created dont interfere with the wheel turning ? Will the hole royally screw something up?
After backing off the adjuster some more the drum still wouldnt come off. I put a bolt in one of the "push-off" holes but unfortunately I busted a hole through the metal plate at the back of the axle flange. Can I simply bend this back as much as possible such that the metal protrusions I created dont interfere with the wheel turning ? Will the hole royally screw something up?
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
Not that you could have helped it, but the drum should not be put on such that the holes in the drum line up with those holes in the axle flange.
That ring is just a dust ring. Just take a c-clamp or a set of vice grip style welding clamps and flatten the dust ring out in that area.and you'll be fine.
That ring is just a dust ring. Just take a c-clamp or a set of vice grip style welding clamps and flatten the dust ring out in that area.and you'll be fine.
