1983 Rear brake job questions. (1 Viewer)

[Stumpalama]

The fan is correct... it is about impossible to mount incorrectly.
The fan pulls the air through the radiator and around the engine. The air gets blown around the engine bay and seems to go everywhere when the hood is up.
The cooling system:
Do you know the history of the coolant?
Did the heater blow hot?
Is the system full?
Is the water pump noisy or leaking?
I would start with an agrometer (sp) to check the coolant health/ratio.
When the truck is cool, pull the radiator cap, check the level inside the radiator. Then, with the rad cap off, start the truck and let it warm up. While it is warming up, keep an eye in the radiator and look for fluid movement and periodically grab the upper rad hose and check it's temp.
At some point, the thermostat should open and allow the coolant to flow through the radiator.
It could be that you thermostat is to spec'd for too hi an opening temp or it has failed.
If you need a new thermostat"
Get a new thermostat and gaskets (one for the thermostat and one for the housing), drain down some coolant to below the thermostat housing, then spray the bolts with lots of rust penetrant and maybe hit the bolts with some direct heat before trying to remove them. Do not force them too much, as they tend to get stuck due to the dissimilar metals. An impact driver sometimes helps break the bond as well. Hit the bolts to tighten them real quick, then try reversing them out.

 

[Spike Strip]

I should add that while the fan seems to be engaging correctly (to me), most of the air seems to be circulating above the fan, and not either to the radiator or engine. I am suspecting that it is actually blowing it at the engine but all the stuff between the fan and the engine deflects it. Is that correct ?

Not sure what you're asking here, but the fan does not 'cool' the engine. It pulls air through the radiator, across the fins, allowing the radiator to do its job when you're idling or moving slowly.

Test the fan Clutch by taking a rolled up newspaper and (at operating temp) trying to stop the fan. If it's locked up and won't stop, the clutch is working. If you can stop the fan or the clutch slips alot, the clutch is probably failed. If you've got an original fan clutch, it's lived a full life.

But FIRST, you need to see if the engine is actually overheating. There is a known issue with an inaccurate temp gauge (search and in FAQ). Get an IR temp gun and check the head when at operating temp. Or, do like a lot of us and install a good mechanical temp gauge.

 

[fjgdk]

I have to wait to have an oem thermostat delivered. Even the aftermarket were not available around here.

I opened the radiator cap and ran the engine to see what was going on. The fluid was topped off nice and green. It did NOT seem to be moving around much though. I guess that is indicative of a number of problems - bad thermostat, water pump or clogged rad.

I put the cap back, drove it a bit and got it running "hot" again. Despite that, the overflow remained dry as a bone. What would that mean ?

 

[Stumpalama]

You need fluid in your overflow tank... dry tank means not enough coolant in the system. Could be part of your issue.

 

[fjgdk]

I am going to start a new thread for this temperature issue. I have way too many questions to continue on here. Thanks everyone !

 

[Stumpalama]

I am going to start a new thread for this temperature issue. I have way too many questions to continue on here. Thanks everyone !

Post a link here.

 

[fjgdk]

Here is a link:


1983 FJ60 coolant system flush and overhaul

 

[-MaTTi-]

I wire wheeled the thing and noticed that the aluminum housing had a seperable piece in it. In its removal I destroyed that piece.
View attachment 1491459

Where I could found these metal inserts? I have new parts, but there is nothing like this inside and the lever is loose now.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Where I could found these? I have new parts, but there is nothing like this inside and the lever is loose now.

Bellcrank. Lever should be loose, it’s what pivots on a pin for your e brake.

Whatever that is, isn’t supposed to be in there. Even my garbage one you can see there isn’t anything in there except the actual hook thing. Looks like someone jimmyed yours.

 

[-MaTTi-]

Whatever that is, isn’t supposed to be in there.

There is definitely been these inserts from the factory. This is mine old and new oem:

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

There is definitely been these inserts from the factory. This is mine old and new oem:View attachment 2481918View attachment 2481919View attachment 2481920View attachment 2481921

No idea man, I’m not pro but I know mine didn’t have it and mine looked exactly like your older ugly ones.

 

[Stumpalama]

View attachment 2481894
Where I could found these metal inserts? I have new parts, but there is nothing like this inside and the lever is loose now.

Definitely not original.

 

[-MaTTi-]

But you can see the groove for it. Definitely original, this is from 1981 BJ42.

Seen also here: Emergency brake bell crank rebuild

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

But you can see the groove for it. Definitely original, this is from 1981 BJ42.

Seen also here: Emergency brake bell crank rebuild

Gotcha I see it. Weird and very antiquated piece of hardware. Luckily someone wised up and made them a solid piece. Too many little pieces add up to more risk of failure. At least that’s how I see it. So, ah, you’ve proved it to us... move along now. Don’t get all analysis paralysis over it.

 

[Stumpalama]

Definitely not original.

But you can see the groove for it. Definitely original, this is from 1981 BJ42.

Seen also here: Emergency brake bell crank rebuild

I see it now that there is a picture of the original piece. From your picture, it looked like someone filed/ground the inside of your bell crank. That piece is likely to prevent what looks like happend with yours... the harder metal chew up the softer cast metal.
Time for a new one.