1983 FJ60 front axle job questions. (1 Viewer)

[fjgdk]

I have started into the front axle rebuild job on my stock 1983 FJ60 (with 283 K miles) and had some questions I've come across. This isn't my daily driver so I want to do this right with no shortcuts and can wait for things to happen (new parts/tools etc) if needed. I have a Terrain tamer kit, new brakes pads and rotors. I will need to get a new caliper still as the passenger side one was leaking and I can't remove one of the small pistons so I can re-build it with the OEM rebuild kit I purchased. Here goes:

1) How do I separate the rotor from the hub ? i have the kind where there are only 2 bolts from the rotor to the hub in addition to 6 studs from the rotor through the hub. Do I have to remove both the two bolts and the 6 studs before I start separating or can I just remove the 2 bolts and try to separate with the 6 studs on the rotor still ? What is the best way.

2) I have never separated a tie rod end before. How do you use a tie rod separator that is similar to that of SST 09611-22011 ? Does anyone know approximately what size that tool is so that I can buy a like tool from a chain auto parts store ? From the FSM, it looks like I simply put the "U" and bolt on top of the tie rod and ratchet down the bolt. Is there some sort of cotter pin I have to remove before utilizing the tool ? My steering linkage is so rusted I can't quite make out if there is some sort of pin or anything else I need to do before using the tool.

3) What are the particular brands of grease people use for the following (named in the FSM)
a) "molybdenum disulphide lithium base grease" (used in the airfield and the knuckle
b) MP grease (used on the lip of the oil see in the knuckle, rotor hub interior
c) Wheel bearing grease ? (this isn't mentioned in the FSM, it seems to assume bearing reuse).

4) Am I correct in saying that it doesn't matter if the tire on the other side is on or off when I check for the preloads at the various stages of the re-build ? It appears to me that the two sides are disconnected once the tie rod is disconnected and so whether or not the other side is on or off doesn't matter with respect to preload measurement. I just want to verify that.

5) I don't think the oil seal is leaking, but no matter what would it be best to change the differential oil after doing this job as well ? If so what brand of "API GL-5 SAE90 hyping gear oil" is recommended ?

Thanks in advance for any info provided.

 

[MANUCHAO]

Not an fj60, but close

www.youtube.com/shared?ci=xc289yyrvmE

 

[Output Shaft]

Answer to question 1.
Unscrew the two bolts, then pound out the 6 studs with a hammer. It will then separate. The studs hold the rotor to the hub. If you want to do the job the "best way", replace the studs with new and press them in. It's best not to pound them in with a hammer (though guys do). If you don't own a press, just take the parts to any repair shop and they'll press the studs in for you.

 

[fjgdk]

Thanks all. I have watched that youtube video, along with the other two on Toyota front knuckle rebuilds about 10 times each hehe.
(2 parts)
(9? parts I think. Also, it assumes the axle has been completely removed from the vehicle.
www.youtube.com/shared?ci=xc289yyrvmE (2 parts)

 

[FJ60Seth]

1. Remove the wheel studs. You can use a hammer but a press is much easier.

2. It looks like this. Search and you'll find the OTC part number.

3. You'll get a 100 different answers. Probably anything with a Lithium base is fine. I use Mobil 1

4. Yes

5. I don't think you need to. Just top it up.

You probably heard this a 1000 times, but keep track of where you remove the knuckle shims (driver top, driver bottom, etc). Put them back in the same place. Don't mix them up.

 

[Tapage]

2. I use this tool .. Amazon.com: OTC 7315A Universal Tie Rod End Remover: Automotive

3. MUD consensus for wheel bearing grease Amazon.com: Valvoline VV986 SynPower Synthetic Grease (for all US, European and Japanese Vehicles), 16 oz.: Automotive

4. I use AMSoil Off Road grase for birfs and joints ..Synthetic Polymeric Off-Road Grease, NLGI #2

 

[fjgdk]

Thanks again for all the input guys. I have some follow up questions:

1) The FSM shows the tie rod puller SST 09611-22011 looking more like the tool below (showing OTC 27022 per Automotive Tools & Equipment | Mobile Distributor Supply

2) If OEM 27022 that I show above is indeed the "FSM tool" for tie rod removal, which way do I go about getting at the tie rod, method A or B shown below ?

 

[FJ60Seth]

2. Method A. If it's not obvious, there's a cotter pin that goes through the slots in the nut. Remove the cotter pin and the nut first.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Thanks again for all the input guys. I have some follow up questions:

1) The FSM shows the tie rod puller SST 09611-22011 looking more like the tool below (showing OTC 27022 per Automotive Tools & Equipment | Mobile Distributor Supply

View attachment 1360283
2) If OEM 27022 that I show above is indeed the "FSM tool" for tie rod removal, which way do I go about getting at the tie rod, method A or B shown below ?
View attachment 1360284

I have that tool. Used it to pull the pittman from the output shaft on my PSGB. It was a bit to narrow to fit so I cut it down some. But I also used the alternating method with hitting the round side of the pittman with a sledge and tightening the puller after a few hits. In some ways it helped but if I'd taken it off sooner I would have seen that the pittman had let go sooner; in some ways it hung me up. Not sure if it would work the same for a tie rod end but just wanted to comment on that tool.

 

[Stumpalama]

Either puller will work.
It doesn't matter if the axle is on or off the truck. Jack up the front axle on jack stands and strip both sides.
Don't over think the job, it's not difficult , just messy.
If you don't know how to use a puller, I don't advise trying to rebuild the calipers.

 

[cruisedeisel]

Wow! theres a tool for that. hahahaha! The toughest part of the job is getting the c clip back on. Although after 50 times, its actually really easy.

 

[fjgdk]

Thanks again for all who have contributed thus far. I disassembled everything up to the point of the backing plate on Tuesday and that is when I started this thread for questions I came to along the way. Will hopefully continue more this weekend.

fj60seth - Thanks for clearing this up with respect to the tie rod removal., it help's a lot. I am in Maryland and not close to any Cruiser-centric mechanic outfits. I couldn't quite see a cotter pin the first time I inspected the thing, will go back again now that you've confirmed the design and what I should look for.

Stumpalama - Can you clarify your comment "If you don't know how to use a puller, I don't advise trying to rebuild the calipers." for me, sorry but I don't understand it. What puller are you referring to ? The "puller" I have never used before is the tie rod puller. I've rebuilt calipers before (albeit single piston for my various Honda daily driver's over the years) but haven't used a "puller" tool, just compressed air, c-clamps and wood blocks.
I am not going to try to rebuild the calipers as it has become nightmarish trying to remove the stuck piston from the leaky one.

Thanks again everyone.

 

[MANUCHAO]

I choose the OTC tool over the other one shown. The OTC tool won't damage the rubber on the tie rod if you are reusing it.

 

[Stumpalama]

Stumpalama - Can you clarify your comment "If you don't know how to use a puller, I don't advise trying to rebuild the calipers." for me, sorry but I don't understand it. What puller are you referring to ? The "puller" I have never used before is the tie rod puller. I've rebuilt calipers before (albeit single piston for my various Honda daily driver's over the years) but haven't used a "puller" tool, just compressed air, c-clamps and wood blocks.
I am not going to try to rebuild the calipers as it has become nightmarish trying to remove the stuck piston from the leaky one.

Thanks again everyone.

I was making a leap of logic that if you hadn't used a puller, you might be out of your depth when it came to rebuilding the calipers. There was no direct correlation between the puller and the caliper work. I see now that you have experience with calipers, though, maybe not so much with the other tools involved in a knuckle rebuild.
The only way to learn, sometimes, is to jump[ right in and do it.
Where in MD are you? Our club has members scattered around MD and VA.

 

[fjgdk]

Hi Stumpalama -

1)Ok thanks for clarifying now I understand. I have never done any suspension/steering work on any vehicle which is why my questions may seem trivial about certain topics involved.

2)I am in Ellicott City, between DC and Balitimore. I would appreciate any guidance someone in the area can provide.
Also, I am cautious about just jumping into any car work I do that I've never done before since there can be especially expensive or dangerous ramifications from going in without a plan or idea as to what will/should happen.

 

[DFXR]

The OTC puller pictured above is OTC 7315A. Around 40 bucks but hard to find anywhere except online. I bought one when replacing my tie rod ends and it worked really well, fit perfectly and no damage to the boots. A couple turns of the shaft (use a wrench or socket) and you get a very satisfying pop when the ball releases. Worked on the pitman arm too. If you have time to wait a couple days for shipping, I'd get it.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The OTC puller pictured above is OTC 7315A. Around 40 bucks but hard to find anywhere except online. I bought one when replacing my tie rod ends and it worked really well, fit perfectly and no damage to the boots. A couple turns of the shaft (use a wrench or socket) and you get a very satisfying pop when the ball releases. Worked on the pitman arm too. If you have time to wait a couple days for shipping, I'd get it.

Just adding, I walked into a Advance or Pep Boys and bought one off the shelf. And I am pretty sure it was $20 or under.

 

[Cruzerman]

Here is a great write-up over in the 80 series section on moly grease:

Chewbacca's Birfield Grease List

Many people, me included, use the Valvoline Palladium. Cheap, easy to find, great specs.

 

[60 toy ota]

Just did this job over thanksgiving. I used the second type of puller shown, and I cracked it and the tie rod didn't even budge. Ended up having to use a pickle fork and replacing the boot.

Used black moly-graph from Napa for all. also for anyone using national brand bearing and races, I found I had to remove shims... 1 side had 1.5mm of shims , took away .3mm. the other side, 1.3mm and I took away .2mm

 

[Stumpalama]

Hi Stumpalama -

1)Ok thanks for clarifying now I understand. I have never done any suspension/steering work on any vehicle which is why my questions may seem trivial about certain topics involved.

2)I am in Ellicott City, between DC and Balitimore. I would appreciate any guidance someone in the area can provide.
Also, I am cautious about just jumping into any car work I do that I've never done before since there can be especially expensive or dangerous ramifications from going in without a plan or idea as to what will/should happen.

Hey, you gotta start somewhere.

A couple tools I recommend for this job, if you don't already have them: a brass hammer or large brass drift/punch, a long steel punch for tapping out the bearing races (a socket extension works in a pinch, but is not ideal), parts washer or large rubbermaid bin filled 1/2 way with parts cleaner (tractor supply has it in a 5 gallon pail for a decent price), a sturdy pair of lock ring spreader pliers, a fish scale and a bearing greaser. If you are separating the birfs, a 24" length of schedule 40 pipe helps to hammer them off. Make sure you have extra inner c-clips for reassembly. Also, pay attention to the orientation of the cage in the birf prior to pulling it apart. There is a right way and a wrong way to put it back together.

In order to remove the wheel lugs, I like to rest a brass hammer on the lug and hit it with a 2.5lb hammer. this saves the threads and doesn't mushroom the lug. To reinstall them on the new hub/brake rotor, I rest the hub face down on a couple 2x4's to raise it off the floor and use a punch and a 2.5lb hammer.