Another front axle groove question. (1 Viewer)

[smalltown]

Hi
I've torn into a knuckle rebuild on a 84 FJ60. There are grooves on the front axle. They are not too deep (fingernail does not get caught). But I'd love to have someone's opinion about whether I should overdrive (or underdrive?? do I understand that some people do not drive the seal in the entire way?) the seal or just give it a go as it is. Thanks for your time.

 

[Spike Strip]

Looks like you may have two grooves there, indicating someone already tried having the stock-type seal in a different spot...

Use a 'Marlin Seal" .... It's a HD double lip and should work well for that.

Also www.cruiserteq.com sells them

HD Inner Axle Seal | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

Application 1975-1989 Disc BrakeFJ40/45/55/60/62...

www.marlincrawler.com

Marlin Crawler Heavy Duty Pinion Seal - Early - 1997 4x/5x/6x/7x/8x w/factory 27 Spline Pinion (PN38035MA)

Cruiser Teq is the premier provider of high quality OEM, Japanese, and aftermarket Toyota Land Cruiser parts and accessories.

cruiserteq.com

 

[smalltown]

Thanks Spike. I was wondering about the double groove as well. I will order the Marlin seals and see how that goes.
A couple of other things have happened on the re-build that I wonder if you or anyone can offer additional advice:

1. I put the shims that were on the knuckle back on the way they came. The pre-load was WAY too low (2 lb) after torquing everything. So I removed one of the top shims to get the preload correct. But now I worry about the centering of the knuckle...or, since it seems like the knuckle had been re-built a couple of times before, maybe it was already out of spec and perhaps already out of center? Should I center the knuckle? And are there rental SSTs available?

2. When attaching the tie rod to the steering arm, the castle nut is not going back on smoothly and ends up turning the TRE stud instead of threading all the way. Does this mean I need a new TRE? They are not super-loose, in terms of moving back and forth, etc. These seem like the original TREs and maybe it's time to change them anyway.

Thanks again for any advice. It's much appreciated.

 

[Spike Strip]

It's been a while since I've done a knuckle job, so I don't remember which is which, but IIRC, one set of shims (top or bottom?) is for the knuckle preload, and the other is for centering the knuckle around the axle. Some searching should reveal which is which. This info may also be in the FSM which is free for download in the resources section if you don't already have it.

After almost 40 years anything is possible with how the knuckles/shims were put back together. It's possible to tell if it's off-center if you have one side of the existing seal more worn that other. Just by looking at that axle, I'd say you have too much contact on one side causing that wear.

Don't know about the TRE, but sounds like it's worn. TREs, a full set including RRE, are cheap (555 JAPAN-made brand. Careful, there are some China-made imitators). Buy from a MUD vendor to get genuine, not Amazon.

For the SST, you'll have to post asking if anyone has one to rent/lend. There may be someone local to you (you don't say where you are), but I don't know of anyone specific. There are threads, maybe in the 40 section, of people doing the centering without the SST.

 

[smalltown]

So, I managed to get the TRE put back together using a floor jack to lightly hold it in place. I ordered new 555 TREs but the ones already on the truck actually seem OK. Anyway, I'll be ready when they start to go...or when I feel like replacing them.

Installed the Marlin seal. I hope it holds. We see.

Installed the longer front brake hose to make the job easier in the future. Here is a pic:

Is that how it is supposed to look?

Bled the brake system afterwards and everything seems OK. It runs, turns, and stops.

Thanks again so much for your very useful and kind assistance!

 

[ChaserFJ60]

Looks like you may have two grooves there, indicating someone already tried having the stock-type seal in a different spot...

Use a 'Marlin Seal" .... It's a HD double lip and should work well for that.

Also www.cruiserteq.com sells them

HD Inner Axle Seal | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

Application 1975-1989 Disc BrakeFJ40/45/55/60/62...

www.marlincrawler.com

Marlin Crawler Heavy Duty Pinion Seal - Early - 1997 4x/5x/6x/7x/8x w/factory 27 Spline Pinion (PN38035MA)

Cruiser Teq is the premier provider of high quality OEM, Japanese, and aftermarket Toyota Land Cruiser parts and accessories.

cruiserteq.com

x2 on marlin seals, this is THE way to go. I tried not pressing my seals in all the way and got a nasty leak. Marlin seals are excellent quality.

So, I managed to get the TRE put back together using a floor jack to lightly hold it in place. I ordered new 555 TREs but the ones already on the truck actually seem OK. Anyway, I'll be ready when they start to go...or when I feel like replacing them.

Installed the Marlin seal. I hope it holds. We see.

Installed the longer front brake hose to make the job easier in the future. Here is a pic:
View attachment 3388541

Is that how it is supposed to look?

Bled the brake system afterwards and everything seems OK. It runs, turns, and stops.

Thanks again so much for your very useful and kind assistance!

I cant 100% tell from your picture but isnt the bleeder screw supposed to be on top and the brake line in the center port of the caliper? Looks like yours is flipped from the picture. Might have a tough time bleeding the system if this is reversed.

 

[smalltown]

Haha. The picture is a bit misleading isn't it? The brake line is in the center port. The bleeder is above. So that part is OK. I was more concerned about the added length of the hose and if there's any problem with it being where it is...close to the shock, etc. And that it is meant to bypass the part of the brake line that 'normally' goes into the dust shield and then the hard line into the pad. The less brake bleeding, the better...so I hope this is done correctly.

Thanks!

 

[cps432]

Haha. The picture is a bit misleading isn't it? The brake line is in the center port. The bleeder is above. So that part is OK. I was more concerned about the added length of the hose and if there's any problem with it being where it is...close to the shock, etc. And that it is meant to bypass the part of the brake line that 'normally' goes into the dust shield and then the hard line into the pad. The less brake bleeding, the better...so I hope this is done correctly.

Thanks!

Keep your eye on that line. Movement could rub a hole in it against that shock over time.

You can find “titanium” abrasive protection sleeves from any auto parts store. They’re marketed as spark plug wire protectors, but I’ve used them on fuel lines where they’re going to rub or get hot. I would imagine they would offer decent protection for your brake line too.