1979 FJ40 2UZ Build (4 Viewers)

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Bripars40

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 21, 2016
Threads
119
Messages
1,740
Location
Oklahoma
Update 7/31/2022:
Skip to page 3 and 4 if you want to see updates on the 2uz swap. I have a few items left to finish and then I’ll post a video of it running/driving.

Edit 2/20/2021:
I recently stripped the timing gear on my 2F. It’s coming out and I’m dropping in a 1999 100 Series drivetrain. Also, I’m going back to 35s, open rear axle, I may install the liquid iron leaf spring sliders that @A10Driver installed on his 40 but just for the front axle.

After that I’ll enjoy it and take my kiddos on short day trips. Thanks for checking in!


Original Post:
I posted this in the 40-Section but this might gain more traction here:

I'm rethinking my future plans on my 40. When I built it we lived around some great rock crawling. Now I live in the City, and I have a 7 month old so wheeling time is few and far between.

Current setup:
35s, SOA, SM420 w/ 3 speed case, Aussie locker front, Welded rear, 4x4labs high steer, Saginaw power steering, stock 2F, City Racer carb, Metaltech full family cage, lots of rust.

The other kicker is that in our house my garage height is very low. I have to switch to stock Tacoma rims and let all the air out to pull into the garage with the hardtop on.

I need ideas for how to rebuild. I plan to mostly drive around town on the weekends and go on one wheeling trip per year.

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Last edited:
SUA, 33's and 2.5" lift. Will make a nice driver. Take out the welded rear.
 
SUA, 33's and 2.5" lift. Will make a nice driver. Take out the welded rear.

Any merit to attempting to keep it SOA and raise the hard mounts for the springs at the frame to lower the SOA?

If I went sua w/33s I’m concerned the sm420 will need to be swapped for a stock 4 speed.
 
How big is your door opening? I can squeeze my soa 40 on 37s with a 1/4” to spare on a 7’ opening. But that is with no top!
 
Can u post up some detailed pics of your suspension setup? Should be able to get a sua setup to about 4" or a tad less. 33s may be needed to squeeze in the garage. Personally, I would look closely at garage mods too.

I'll post some pictures later today/tomorrow with the suspension setup. Front springs are flat with Dodge/Mopar spring perches. Rear springs have a slight arch to them but somehow my front still sits higher than the rear. The rear axle has an 80 series front control arm as the traction bar.

How big is your door opening? I can squeeze my soa 40 on 37s with a 1/4” to spare on a 7’ opening. But that is with no top!

Garage height is roughly 6'4" maybe 6'5". If I want to increase the head height I would need to reframe the garage ceiling as well since it's roughly 6'-9".
 
Any merit to attempting to keep it SOA and raise the hard mounts for the springs at the frame to lower the SOA?

If I went sua w/33s I’m concerned the sm420 will need to be swapped for a stock 4 speed.

Won't get you much lower unfortunately.

SM420 has the same final ratio as the stock 4 speed and similar ratios to a three speed with a granny first. SU and 33's will be okay with the SM420. Swapping to a 4 speed will net you almost nothing.
 
I'll post some pictures later today/tomorrow with the suspension setup. Front springs are flat with Dodge/Mopar spring perches. Rear springs have a slight arch to them but somehow my front still sits higher than the rear. The rear axle has an 80 series front control arm as the traction bar.



Garage height is roughly 6'4" maybe 6'5". If I want to increase the head height I would need to reframe the garage ceiling as well since it's roughly 6'-9".
My first preference would be to rework your garage. Especially if you feel your current suspension setup feels dialed in. How long would it take to reframe the garage ceiling? A weekend?
 
I have all (and have had pretty much one of everything). Here's my take - 33s and coil-over front/rear upgrade. Two benefits: First, it makes DD the vehicle not only possible but enjoyable; and second, say you need to put 37s under it for a trip to Utah - adjust the springs up and have at it. No need to change the garage door either.
 
My first preference would be to rework your garage. Especially if you feel your current suspension setup feels dialed in. How long would it take to reframe the garage ceiling? A weekend?

Probably two weekends since I’ll need to replace some LVLs to make it happen. Plus side to doing this is we over ordered a few LVLs on a project so that’s not a cost I would incur.

I have all (and have had pretty much one of everything). Here's my take - 33s and coil-over front/rear upgrade. Two benefits: First, it makes DD the vehicle not only possible but enjoyable; and second, say you need to put 37s under it for a trip to Utah - adjust the springs up and have at it. No need to change the garage door either.

While coilover would be great for drivability the costs to enter that game are too high at the moment.
 
Can u post up some detailed pics of your suspension setup? Should be able to get a sua setup to about 4" or a tad less. 33s may be needed to squeeze in the garage. Personally I would look closely at garage mods too.

Took some quick pictures while working on the house today. I think your suggestion to raise the ceiling and garage door opening is something I’ll incorporate into our remodel within the next 18 months. However, I think that in conjunction with a refresh on the suspension is in order.

And the ratchet strap on the rear acme was only used to suck down the rear when pulling into the garage.

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How much lower do you need? Would a couple of small winches be able to suck each end down enough?

Is the door opening high enough? Garage doors can be mounted with different hardware to increase the clearance when open.

I’ve also seen shackle reversals done in combination with SOA in such a way that it’d lower the front a couple inches. Essentially with the rear mount moved to where the front is and holes drilled through the frame and a pipe welded in for the top of the shackles at the rear of the springs... and the shackles just long enough that the eyes clear the frame.
 
Took some quick pictures while working on the house today. I think your suggestion to raise the ceiling and garage door opening is something I’ll incorporate into our remodel within the next 18 months. However, I think that in conjunction with a refresh on the suspension is in order.

And the ratchet strap on the rear acme was only used to suck down the rear when pulling into the garage.

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I think about 3" lower is doable depending on how much money and fab you want to do. It would be a fair amount of work. Personally I would raise the garage and leave the suspension alone and fix the rust on the old girl and make the interior more comfortable for daily driving.
 
How much lower do you need? Would a couple of small winches be able to suck each end down enough?

Is the door opening high enough? Garage doors can be mounted with different hardware to increase the clearance when open.

I’ve also seen shackle reversals done in combination with SOA in such a way that it’d lower the front a couple inches. Essentially with the rear mount moved to where the front is and holes drilled through the frame and a pipe welded in for the top of the shackles at the rear of the springs... and the shackles just long enough that the eyes clear the frame.

I'd need to lower it about 7" to get through my garage. Which would ultimately mean that I would go back to stock height with 31s to truly fit in the garage. Not something I'm wanting to do.

I think about 3" lower is doable depending on how much money and fab you want to do. It would be a fair amount of work. Personally I would raise the garage and leave the suspension alone and fix the rust on the old girl and make the interior more comfortable for daily driving.

I think even lowering 1-2" would achieve what I'm wanting in the back of my mind (as low as possible SOA). I'd rather keep leaf springs than completely redesign with 4-link and coilovers. I'm heading out to our jobsite today to see how many beams I can reuse on my garage. I should be able to reframe the garage without demoing the ceiling. Then once its completely reframed I'll demo the ceiling and raise the openings. My goal is to do this without creating a major mess in the garage until it's time to remove the sheetrock.
 
I'd need to lower it about 7" to get through my garage. Which would ultimately mean that I would go back to stock height with 31s to truly fit in the garage. Not something I'm wanting to do.



I think even lowering 1-2" would achieve what I'm wanting in the back of my mind (as low as possible SOA). I'd rather keep leaf springs than completely redesign with 4-link and coilovers. I'm heading out to our jobsite today to see how many beams I can reuse on my garage. I should be able to reframe the garage without demoing the ceiling. Then once its completely reframed I'll demo the ceiling and raise the openings. My goal is to do this without creating a major mess in the garage until it's time to remove the sheetrock.
Nice. Well this is what I think u could do to go lower. Front shackle reversal through the frame would lower it about 1". Modify/trim the spring perches and notch the housing a bit at the front diff so the front perches are sitting almost level with the axle housing(do this on the rear perches too)that will lower about .5 to. 75". Using either all new spring packs or just getting main leafs that are reverse eye with fj60 eyes should get u another 1.5" lower.
 
7”... wow! That seems like a lot. I’d not want to go back to stock either.

I’m running 33s with minimal lift, and it’ll easily fit under a 7’ door. With the roof rack (about 3”) it’s likely a touch tall, but not impossible.

How tall is your door?
 
Nice. Well this is what I think u could do to go lower. Front shackle reversal through the frame would lower it about 1". Modify/trim the spring perches and notch the housing a bit at the front diff so the front perches are sitting almost level with the axle housing(do this on the rear perches too)that will lower about .5 to. 75". Using either all new spring packs or just getting main leafs that are reverse eye with fj60 eyes should get u another 1.5" lower.

Great advice! Not sure why this isn’t the more standard approach to SOA since it nets a smoother ride and lower ride height over standard SOA.

7”... wow! That seems like a lot. I’d not want to go back to stock either.

I’m running 33s with minimal lift, and it’ll easily fit under a 7’ door. With the roof rack (about 3”) it’s likely a touch tall, but not impossible.

How tall is your door?

6’-4”
 
Nice. Well this is what I think u could do to go lower. Front shackle reversal through the frame would lower it about 1". Modify/trim the spring perches and notch the housing a bit at the front diff so the front perches are sitting almost level with the axle housing(do this on the rear perches too)that will lower about .5 to. 75". Using either all new spring packs or just getting main leafs that are reverse eye with fj60 eyes should get u another 1.5" lower.

Great advice! Not sure why this isn’t the more standard approach to SOA since it nets a smoother ride and lower ride height over standard SOA.

Mostly because of the effort involved and benefit. Lots of people want the lift. Notching a housing has lots of room for failure

And the benefits of Shackle Reversals are arguable..
 
Ahh. It makes more sense now. I wouldn’t even be able to walk through that door.

A standard 7’ door mounted so the door is above 7’ when open world likely do the job.
 

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