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- Jan 6, 2012
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Yeah u need to be careful fabricating on a Toyota housing, and shackle reversal arguments never end.
1979 FJ40 2UZ Build
- Thread starter Bripars40
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Restarting this thread...
I managed to lower the truck 2” in the front suspension and the overall stance is much better. In the process I added 37” beadlocks. So much for lowering the truck.
Still haven’t modified my garage for this truck to fit, but I did convert it into a wood working and welding garage for my wife and I to enjoy.
I’m at another crossroad:
A) Install a Holley Sniper 2300 system. Nothing wrong with my carb setup just want something easier to start on cold days. Cost me roughly $1,100 less the remainder of the 100 series I’m parting out below.
Downsides: None?
B) Install a complete engine, transmission and transfer case from a 100 series. I have a complete donor truck. Cost maybe $1,000 less whatever I sell the remainder of the 100 series for and the drivetrain from my 40.
Downsides: length of time to complete.
Neither addition/change is necessary and the 2uz is an itch I’ve wanted to scratch for a long time. I could very easily switch to a GM V8 much easier but we’re Toyota people so why deviate.
Any suggestions for or against the options above?
I managed to lower the truck 2” in the front suspension and the overall stance is much better. In the process I added 37” beadlocks. So much for lowering the truck.
Still haven’t modified my garage for this truck to fit, but I did convert it into a wood working and welding garage for my wife and I to enjoy.
I’m at another crossroad:
A) Install a Holley Sniper 2300 system. Nothing wrong with my carb setup just want something easier to start on cold days. Cost me roughly $1,100 less the remainder of the 100 series I’m parting out below.
Downsides: None?
B) Install a complete engine, transmission and transfer case from a 100 series. I have a complete donor truck. Cost maybe $1,000 less whatever I sell the remainder of the 100 series for and the drivetrain from my 40.
Downsides: length of time to complete.
Neither addition/change is necessary and the 2uz is an itch I’ve wanted to scratch for a long time. I could very easily switch to a GM V8 much easier but we’re Toyota people so why deviate.
Any suggestions for or against the options above?
- Thread starter
- #24
Well a quick update:
I finished parting out the other 100 series and picked up a new one to part this month. I quickly convinced myself I wasn’t likely to install the 2UZ in my 40 anytime in the next decade so I’m sticking with the 2F for now.
I replaced the entire rear floorboards and quarter panels with 3/16” and 1/8” metal. It’s surprisingly squeak-free now and the back has some weight to it now which is nice. This plus removing two of the smaller leaves on the front axle lowered the truck enough to warrant changing to flatter high steer arms.
Storage of the 40: I built a vehicle gate on the side of the house and I just tuck it outside for now.
Future: finish installing 100 series 3rd row seats in the rear and drive it for a while. Maybe save up for that Sniper EFI kit from Mosley Motors.
I finished parting out the other 100 series and picked up a new one to part this month. I quickly convinced myself I wasn’t likely to install the 2UZ in my 40 anytime in the next decade so I’m sticking with the 2F for now.
I replaced the entire rear floorboards and quarter panels with 3/16” and 1/8” metal. It’s surprisingly squeak-free now and the back has some weight to it now which is nice. This plus removing two of the smaller leaves on the front axle lowered the truck enough to warrant changing to flatter high steer arms.
Storage of the 40: I built a vehicle gate on the side of the house and I just tuck it outside for now.
Future: finish installing 100 series 3rd row seats in the rear and drive it for a while. Maybe save up for that Sniper EFI kit from Mosley Motors.
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Whose rear 3/16" quarter panels did you use, Budbuilt/Metaltech? Do you have any more pics after the install?...Sweet build!
- Thread starter
- #26
@matzell built them for me. I completely cut out the old panels as well as made the wheel opening larger then I welded them in. Here’s the best picture I have after the install.
Also, the 2uz drivetrain is finally going in! I broke the timing gear on my 2F so it’s finally given me an excuse to swap engines. The harness should be ready in about three weeks.
quarter panels turned out nice.
- Thread starter
- #30
Couple of updates:
I dropped of the 40 at the shop for the 2UZ swap. The guy doing the swap is the lead Lexus mechanic in my city. Our goal is reliability with this build.
Changed to a 35” tire on tundra/sequoia rims. I still need to install the wheel spacers.
I’m expecting the swap will be complete around Christmas time.
I dropped of the 40 at the shop for the 2UZ swap. The guy doing the swap is the lead Lexus mechanic in my city. Our goal is reliability with this build.
Changed to a 35” tire on tundra/sequoia rims. I still need to install the wheel spacers.
I’m expecting the swap will be complete around Christmas time.
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- Thread starter
- #31
Not much of an update. Moved to another shop and pulled the 100 drivetrain today. No one died but we did snap a stock 2uz engine pick bracket. I’ll have to take a picture of the bracket but it sheered in half. Looks like a factory defect in the metal.
Hopefully more updates inbound.
Hopefully more updates inbound.
- Thread starter
- #32
More progress in a day than it’s had in a year!
All the credit goes to @Landbender
After getting it set I think we’re going with electric fans for the radiator.
Remote oil filter mount:
All the credit goes to @Landbender
After getting it set I think we’re going with electric fans for the radiator.
Remote oil filter mount:
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This thing is going to be an absolute riot! There is about an inch of wiggle in all directions, any farther back and the t case would be in the fuel tank, any farther up and the trans tunnel would have to be completely redone, and farther down and the steering would have to be redone, it is a very tight fit but in the most awesome way.
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
I'm running the contour funs on a PWM fan speed controller as I ran out of time to get a shroud made. The e-fans work most of the time, but I found their limit while driving through OK this past August. I was running 75mph into a stout headwind with the AC on and engine temps stayed around 210-215F. Warmer than it should have been. Mechanical fan would've spooled up and pulled the temps down.
What is stopping you from running a mech fan? @Tank5 is doing this in his 45 and ran into some clearance issues. He seems to resolved that with an Isuzu fan that bolts up.
What is stopping you from running a mech fan? @Tank5 is doing this in his 45 and ran into some clearance issues. He seems to resolved that with an Isuzu fan that bolts up.
I did experiment with the Isuzu fans and they could work but I ended up using a 1uz fan.
- Thread starter
- #38
I think we ended up having to mount things a little further forward than @Tank5 was able to. I’ll have a better idea once I get the truck home tomorrow afternoon. I have a 1uz fan on standby if we can make it fit.
Any chance there’s a shallower fan clutch available?
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
Maybe. Depends on which one you have. Some have thinner bodies which handle heat differently. The base and fan bolt patterns are the same across a lot of Toyota's fan clutches.
- Thread starter
- #40
@Zjohnsonua @Tank5
I see now why I’ll need to run an electric fan. To avoid modifying the frame crossmember by the gas tank the drivetrain was shifted forward. Honestly it’s not the worst thing because it helps me have a better angle/length for the front and rear driveshafts.
Who knows, it may help keep the cab cooler since there is a decent amount of room between the firewall and the back of the engine.
I see now why I’ll need to run an electric fan. To avoid modifying the frame crossmember by the gas tank the drivetrain was shifted forward. Honestly it’s not the worst thing because it helps me have a better angle/length for the front and rear driveshafts.
Who knows, it may help keep the cab cooler since there is a decent amount of room between the firewall and the back of the engine.