Builds 1979 FJ40 Old School Overhaul

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So well be seeing paint by tomorrow am?

And people wonder why paint and body costs so much to have someone else do it.

I had a quote for 10k. :flipoff2::flipoff2:That didn't even include paint. So this is the reason for my foray into body work. When my welding skills catch up i'll be golden. :hillbilly::hillbilly:
 
I had a quote for 10k. :flipoff2::flipoff2:That didn't even include paint. So this is the reason for my foray into body work. When my welding skills catch up i'll be golden. :hillbilly::hillbilly:

Did they estimate how many hours or was it a flat price? What was their hourly rate?The first shop our 72 went to was at $65 an hour and they wouldn't give a ballpark in how many hours it would take to get it ready to paint. The current shop spent alot of time redoing their(1st shop) work.
 
Reading stuff like this is the reason why I decided to try it myself, I'm sure I could have had it done to a much higher quality than I have done it, but not for the price.
 
I had a quote for 10k. :flipoff2::flipoff2:That didn't even include paint. So this is the reason for my foray into body work. When my welding skills catch up i'll be golden. :hillbilly::hillbilly:

I had an '82 with the cleanest tub I had ever seen repainted at a body shop. The inside I had already done with speed liner before it went to the shop. They had to do a little work on the doors and top though. Cost me $6k back in 2001. It did turn out super nice though, never should have sold that one.
 
Did they estimate how many hours or was it a flat price? What was their hourly rate?The first shop our 72 went to was at $65 an hour and they wouldn't give a ballpark in how many hours it would take to get it ready to paint. The current shop spent alot of time redoing their(1st shop) work.

I don't recall what their hourly rate was nor do I recall how long he said it would take( or how time he would be spending on it), but I estimated I would not see my rig for at least 6 months. "I was next in line" if I committed to him doing the body work.:flipoff2::flipoff2: :censor: TOO Expensive.

I was going to have the local Votec school do it... he never quoted me either. I was next in line there too:flipoff2::flipoff2:, :censor::censor:. The next he said break it down and he would take it from there. Well I dissembled my rig .. and he comes back with this HUGE back log of work he has to do. :flipoff2::flipoff2:

Well, thats my story about "body shops".

And this is how I got into body work:cheers::cheers::hillbilly::hillbilly:
 
Reading stuff like this is the reason why I decided to try it myself, I'm sure I could have had it done to a much higher quality than I have done it, but not for the price.

Most indubitably!!!

If I can get the top on and fit the doors where they look good, Ill be a happy camper.
 
I had an '82 with the cleanest tub I had ever seen repainted at a body shop. The inside I had already done with speed liner before it went to the shop. They had to do a little work on the doors and top though. Cost me $6k back in 2001. It did turn out super nice though, never should have sold that one.

Sheww, I would have had to hang on to it. :hmm:

And now here you are grinding off dirt-dobber welds... like me :confused:
 
I don't recall what their hourly rate was nor do I recall how long he said it would take( or how time he would be spending on it), but I estimated I would not see my rig for at least 6 months. "I was next in line" if I committed to him doing the body work.:flipoff2::flipoff2: :censor: TOO Expensive.

I was going to have the local Votec school do it... he never quoted me either. I was next in line there too:flipoff2::flipoff2:, :censor::censor:. The next he said break it down and he would take it from there. Well I dissembled my rig .. and he comes back with this HUGE back log of work he has to do. :flipoff2::flipoff2:

Well, thats my story about "body shops".

And this is how I got into body work:cheers::cheers::hillbilly::hillbilly:

Your work looks great. It seems like alot of the guys who farm out the paint and body end up using multiple shops. We are one of those and learned an expensive lesson the hard way. Luckily, with the help of another Mudder, our 72 is at a great shop that doesn't cut corners. It would have saved alot of money of it went there first.
 
I ran into a a issue today. I thought everything was really close " square and plumb". Well looky here..

1st pic.. top of the tub is 41 inches!! Which is what it should be, because the bed pan is 41 inches, I'm good.
20170319_162132.webp


2nd pic. I measured the door jam, which measured 41 3/4 inches at the top. Which is still "square" because I had it welded with a piece of angle.
20170319_162150.webp


This is where I have found my problem. I thought I got the quarters squared and tight and "perfect", well I didn't. And I just now noticed it.

3rd pic measured door jam at the bottom. It measures 42 1/4 inches... thats 1/2 WIDER than the top of the tub.
20170319_162217.webp
 
To the best of my knowledge my error was not getting the quarters fitting better at the bottom. I put my framing square against it and each quarter is 1/4 inch out.

I need to put on the top and hang the doors. Fingers crossed, Im hoping it wont be noticeable...

Here are my corner channels tacked in..
20170319_162228.webp

20170319_162235.webp
 
Hey @oldschool4wheeling , might have to say :censor: it and cut it and add a piece in. If you do, take your time and fit it so there's enough gap to get good penetration. If you don't you'll end up grinding all the weld off and leaving a crack. Then doing it again. (ask me how I know) Good Sh!t! lol :bang:

Are the quarters flared out at the bottom? If so, maybe cut it loose at the bottom and pull the lower part of the quarters in?
 
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Thanks @gator25!

1. That was one of my thoughts, cutting it and pull it straight to the door jam then weld it up.
2. Add weld to the side of the door jam and grind it flat.
3. :censor: it!! It's close enough.

I haven't had a chance to put the top and doors on yet. We will see ....
 
@gator25 , as to your question. It didn't dawn on me as to how to check the back part of the quarters.

The short story is when I mounted the quarter and wrapped it around the door jam, then fitted it to the B pillar. Everything looked great and square.

The long story is to follow..... with pics.
 
This is what i should have done.

Put a straight edge across the back and the use my framing square to make sure the quarter was not flared out.

This pic shows and example of what I'm talking about. ( My straight edge is too long, I would cut it to with of the top of the tub so my framing squares hang freely.
20170320_102137.webp

See how my Framing square hangs freely and is tight to the tub..??

But notice zero gap at bottom .... and 1/4 inch gap at top
20170320_101852.webp


This is the B pillar...... perfectly square to the top of the tub.
20170320_101940.webp
 
Delete all these pics and forget about it.

You will be the only one that knows the quarters are out a 1/2".
 

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