Builds 1971 FJ55, "Bucky"

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I think Nolen summed it up pretty well. Two wires. One to battery, one to switched 12v. I did the changeover to the 60 unit when I was having problems with the old external voltage regulator. I just happened to have a good spare 60 alt in my parts hoard, so it was a no brained. It’s a solid upgrade if you can live without a functioning amp gauge (I think it’s just a charge light on my truck, not a gauge).
 
I installed a 55 amp, 60 series alternator that I bought from Mosley motors and used a Coolerman wires harness conversion kit. I am still using the stock amp gauge and it’s working fine.
 
I installed a 55 amp, 60 series alternator that I bought from Mosley motors and used a Coolerman wires harness conversion kit. I am still using the stock amp gauge and it’s working fine.

He has a very detailed write up on his page for sure. I did not understand any of it 😑
 
Since I have owned the truck, Bucky has suffered a super annoying exhaust leak from the thermoreactor flapper shaft. I finally got tired of listening to it. The fix something went something like this:

Pulled the carb and all the smog bits (none of which were actually functioning). Pulled the manifolds. I used a plasma cutter to remove the exhaust flapper (which was missing a screw and rattling around inside the manifold) and cut out and removed the flapper shaft.

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Machine shop resurfaced the manifold and
tapped the shaft holes in the exhaust manifold for set screws.

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Sandblasted the valve cover and sprayed it with VHT cast aluminum engine paint and finished it off with a couple coats of VHT clear engine paint.

Before:
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After:

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I’m waiting on some Jim C desmog bits to show up so I can start reassembling this pig.

Are you going with the block-off plate between the intake and exhaust?

Not to complicate things, but my 40 has had an exhaust leak for a while. I am contemplating going w/ 3FE exhaust manifold...
 
Take the Alt gauge out of the mix

Run a wire directly to the battery off the post on the back of the battery.


Done. 55 Amps.

It is an ampere gauge, eh?

IIRC you have to deal w/ going from external regulation to internal reg?

Not trying to be difficult, but I am not following this part, "Run a wire directly to the battery off the post on the back of the battery."?
 
I installed a 55 amp, 60 series alternator that I bought from Mosley motors and used a Coolerman wires harness conversion kit. I am still using the stock amp gauge and it’s working fine.

Link to the @Coolerman goodies?
 
It is an ampere gauge, eh?

IIRC you have to deal w/ going from external regulation to internal reg?

Not trying to be difficult, but I am not following this part, "Run a wire directly to the battery off the post on the back of the battery."?

Just for you .....

 
Link to the @Coolerman goodies?
Using my phone so hopefully this works. Cruiser Wiring

Products for using newer alternators and converting from External to Internal regulated. There are links on the pages for installation instructions.

The link to his store is in his signature line in case you loose the link.
 
Using my phone so hopefully this works. Cruiser Wiring

Products for using newer alternators and converting from External to Internal regulated. There are links on the pages for installation instructions.

The link to his store is in his signature line in case you loose the link.

Gracias Amigo! I like keeping gauges working when I can.

I will never forget the first time I pulled my 40 cluster and shorted the post on my amp meter to the dash - that was exciting!
 
@PabloCruise I bought a block-off plate to use between the manifolds, but after doing some research, apparently it isn’t really needed. From what I can gather, many folks have had success with just pulling out the flapper and not bothering with the plate as long as their intake does not already have a crack. Mine is rock solid, so I made the decision not to separate the manifolds to install the plate. The notorious intake crack happens when the flapper sticks in the “cold” position with the exhaust being directed straight up toward the intake. Without the flapper, the exhaust should mostly flow downward and not heat up the intake and cause a crack. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it. We will see how it goes.
 
It’s coming back together:

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How long does it take to warm up and how well does it run while warming up?
I’m in NC, so the weather is usually mild. The truck is normally easy to start without the choke and warms up quick (within a mile or two of driving). I have not tried to drive it yet without the flapper, but I don’t expect that I will see much of a change. My flapper was stuck in “warm mode” directing exhaust down. A screw had come out of the flapper and it was wedged in place and not rotating as it should.
 
I finished up the manifold re-do and took the truck to the local shop for a new custom exhaust system. The downpipe of old system hung down below the frame rails. I was afraid I'd smack it on a rock. The new system is tucked up tight. It's a 2.5" from front to rear with a Magnaflow muffler. Sounds nice and throaty, but not harsh or annoying. I'm very happy with it. Bucky is running great. I'm enjoying getting some windshield time in these next few days. Next up...old leaky and brittle 3 speed transfer case is coming out and later H42 case is going in.
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