1970 FJ40 purchase help. (2 Viewers)

[jlm43]

First off it's a 71 model. Never seen the split back passenger seat on a 70 model. The brake booster started 7/70 with the start of the 71 model. That plus because it already has dual brake lines. The plates in the back floor are most likely for the spare tank. My 73 aux tank was hung that way without extra support. Tank is made with four pipes to create the hollow space for the long mounting bolts. If you plan on actually restoring it rust is probably a biggest issue. Location non treated it will continue to rust driving in the winter on salted roads wouldn't bothered restoring because keeping the rust away is a lost cause.

Thanks. The VIN tag shows a manufacture date of Nov 1970 which aligns with what you're saying. Was spring green available in years other than 1970? That's the only year that shows up on the color charts. A restoration may happen but it's at least 10 years out. Just looking for a good candidate that I can still drive and enjoy now.

 

[Living in the Past]

Spring green was available in many years. Not just 1970. Problem is as far as I know Toyota does not have official color chart. Seen multiple charts all different from each other.

 

[pb4ugo]

One thing to check for sure is the Frame vin#, A pillar # ,and the vin # on the title need to all be the same.

 

[Living in the Past]

This is my 9/64 FJ45. Originally it was spring green.

 

[CondeCruiser]

I came across it last week sometime and did some searching through the weekend. They price on TLC Marketplace on FB is about $2k higher than on their website. I'd like to think I could get it for well below $15k but who knows.

Any thoughts on value? Assuming the unseen portions are on par with the rest of the rig.

As for paint, the paint on the interior is a bit lighter than the exterior or even the interior of the top. I'd assume that it could have had an exterior repaint and the top was probably off for sometime. The rear sill, under rear doors, seems really good considering the lower door jamb. That's got me a bit concerned but magnets and flashlights would sort that out.

I think they would do $15k. I would even start at $13.5. The price now is fair, IMO. Never hurts to dicker a bit though.

 

[jlm43]

Here’s a picture from the seller that tells a lot. Looks like there could be some filler work and definitely some new paint. Seller didn’t have much info in engine swaps or drivetrain upgrades. Now to decide if I want to move forward.

 

[peesalot]

Thats a great truck IMO, for being from the north east it looks cleaner than expected. The rear housing looks to be from a 60 as well but they arent wide as I can tell ?

 

[pb4ugo]

You'll need to crawl under and look at the back side of the sill. It's probably OK, looking at the current pics its likely OK. I dont see anything that would be a deal breaker. Make sure it runs good and sort of stops. It's a 50 yr old vehicle, you'll most likely have to spend $$ and do some work. Mechanicals are usually easy to fix, bodywork sucks, it looks like a good candidate. FYI, 1st gear is not synchronized, so it will probably grind going into gear if not stopped, test drive it , see if it goes in FWD, and low range.

 

[jlm43]

Im trying to keep my expectations realistic when it comes to what I want and what the budget allows. I am fully capable of fixing most things as long as it’s structurally intact and in good working order.

The interior picture I received doesn’t show any major damage from the roof rack. That would be replaced with a gutter mount system so no worries there. Repairing a fiberglass top can’t be any harder than composite helicopters.

A few more pictures.

 

[Green Bean]

To activate 4WD you will pull a knob on the dash. It looks like the vacuum actuated 4WD components are intact from under the hood. You will have to check underneath to make sure the vacuum works properly.

 

[pb4ugo]

It has a non stk, looks to be a Holley carb, and a lot of non stk colored wires. There's going to be things that need to be cleaned up. Correcting the po's repairs is part of it. 1st the goal is running, driving, stopping, then enjoy. Be prepared to crawl under it a look around. I think the prices that have been mentioned are pretty close to the market value. Get it for less if you can. All the things mentioned are ammunition to negotiate with. They're pretty basic to work on and this site has all the info and knowledge to help you work through repairs.

 

[MDH33]

The wife wouldn't be happy if I brought something home that needed a years worth of weekends just to drive down the road.

Looks pretty good, but a years worth of weekends is definitely a possibility! I see a lot of weird wiring, non stock stuff and needed maintenance. If you get it, do one fix at a time rather than tearing it apart and buying tons of parts all at once. That's a sure way to scare your wife and sour what has the potential to be a cool project.

 

[aging fleet]

If you get it, do one fix at a time rather than tearing it apart and buying tons of parts all at once.

Super good advice.

 

[brooklyn]

My thoughts, any rig in the 15-20k range will require work and money. If you content with driving a “not” perfect truck you can enjoy the imperfections. If you want to continue to enhance, it can get expensive and time consuming. That’s why sometimes it’s better to spend 30k and maybe more to get an FJ40 that’s done.

And it’s just not FJ40s, anything vintage will require work— just need to figure what’s your starting point and eventual end point.

I am ten plus years upgrading mine and I am close to having all the major work completed (engine and trans swap, body panels, paint, suspension, and more)

Lots of time and money to get it where it is now.

The truck looks good for the price, but 10k in the next few years fixing it up wouldn’t be a crazy amount to expect.

 

[Living in the Past]

My thoughts, any rig in the 15-20k range will require work and money. If you content with driving a “not” perfect truck you can enjoy the imperfections. If you want to continue to enhance, it can get expensive and time consuming. That’s why sometimes it’s better to spend 30k and maybe more to get an FJ40 that’s done.

And it’s just not FJ40s, anything vintage will require work— just need to figure what’s your starting point and eventual end point.

I am ten plus years upgrading mine and I am close to having all the major work completed (engine and trans swap, body panels, paint, suspension, and more)

Lots of time and money to get it where it is now.

The truck looks good for the price, but 10k in the next few years fixing it up wouldn’t be a crazy amount to expect.

The downside to buying a restored vehicle it can limit how you end up using it. Unless you have deep pockets might baby that nicely restored FJ40 instead of what you originally planned to use it for. Same can be said for how far you want to go restoring a FJ40. Something to be said about rattle can paint jobs.

 

[jlm43]

My thoughts, any rig in the 15-20k range will require work and money. If you content with driving a “not” perfect truck you can enjoy the imperfections. If you want to continue to enhance, it can get expensive and time consuming. That’s why sometimes it’s better to spend 30k and maybe more to get an FJ40 that’s done.

And it’s just not FJ40s, anything vintage will require work— just need to figure what’s your starting point and eventual end point.

The truck looks good for the price, but 10k in the next few years fixing it up wouldn’t be a crazy amount to expect.

And this is what I'm trying to decide. Do I wait for a cleaner one and spend a bit more money or get this one and just pick away at it when time allows. I'm in no rush so I can be a bit picky on what issues I'm willing to live with.

I greatly appreciate the help from everyone that has chimed in on this one. It has a lot of pluses but also misses a few things I'd like. I'd prefer original paint, all original parts, and minimal rust but one of those will not fit my budget. If this one is still available in a couple weeks when I wrap up my deck project, I'll take the drive down and see what it looks like in person. If I grab this one, I'll get the bugs worked out of it, tidy up the wiring, and use it for what it is.

 

[White Stripe]

Not that this on is bad, but I personally think you'd be better off spending 25k on a nicer one. It's surprising how nice of a 40 you can get for 25k. Look at ih8mud classifieds and marketplace in rust free areas. Don't be afraid to buy a plane ticket, and rely on help for pre purchase inspection.

 

[SteveH]

There's a lot right with that one, but still no frame photos...

 

[Skreddy]

If you’re comfortable with it, post your budget and your ideal options. Someone may see one locally to them and forward it along. I know there’s a couple near me that are spring green between $20-40k. Ones a factory soft top, ones got a small block Chevy conversion. Just depends what you’re looking for.

 

[jlm43]

If you’re comfortable with it, post your budget and your ideal options. Someone may see one locally to them and forward it along. I know there’s a couple near me that are spring green between $20-40k. Ones a factory soft top, ones got a small block Chevy conversion. Just depends what you’re looking for.

Ideal budget would be under $15k but it's somewhat flexible. I'd prefer something all original, no rot, marginally safe to drive, and with factory spring green paint. So it's going to be tough to find something within my budget. It will be a summer convertible and while it might see the occasional dirt road, it will never see the trails or a highway. While I'm 50/50 on the engine swap and disc brake conversion, the repaint and corrosion is my biggest concern. I've been taking random days off from work to wrap up the deck project and once that is done, I'll have some time to take a ride to check it out. If it sells, that's fine too.