Shhh…..I see the ad, says Kroil Original Foumula. You mean to tell me that the EPA hasn't fkd with that yet? They've ruined everything else.
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Shhh…..I see the ad, says Kroil Original Foumula. You mean to tell me that the EPA hasn't fkd with that yet? They've ruined everything else.
Great write up on this DIY project. I need to do mine and this will help! CheersMerry Christmas everyone had some free time today and decided to replace/upgrade the dash lights in my 1977 FJ40. I will include the lights that ordered from Superbrightleds.com & if does anyone know if the round connector (pic2) that plugs into the back of the cluster will only go in one way or if I have to align it correctly? Any recommendations on lube for the speedometer cable?
Pic 1: 2 screws that have to be removed to tilt dash forward ( I removed the speedometer cable by loosening the line from the holders on the body and it gave me enough slack to push the cable into the cab tilting the cluster forward. I then used a zip tie to secure the cable and a small flathead to pry around the base of the cable and it came free.)
Pic 2: Round connector that needs to be removed to pull out cluster gently pull the connector off.
Pic 3: Positive and negative connections for the cluster and the zip tie I used to get the speedo cable off in the background
Pic 4: Lights I used to replace “yazaki” bulbs that were in cluster
Pic 5: Cluster taken out and bulbs replaced. To remove the old bulbs twist counter clockwise and the black sockets should come out then pull the bulb out of the socket.
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That sucks. Did you get the head checked for flatness - maybe just got warped and needs a skim?Finished up my head gasket install, adjusted valves, filled up the oil and coolant then started it up. Running great to my surprise, none of my hoses are leaking and it sounds like the valves are within spec, so I let it idle for a few minutes and warm up.
Notice a bit of white smoke from the exhaust that seems to get worse the longer it runs. Unfortunately it also appears the cooling system is building pressure as well as the hoses are very tight. So I shut it off after about 10 minutes.
Guessing this head is cracked somewhere, I have heard these are more prone to cracking than earlier 2F heads were. Find it strange that my head gasket would blow, head would crack and the radiator split open all within a couple minutes of each other. Don't know why I seem to have the worst luck with Toyota engines.
Back in the 90s I managed to crack another another head with very similar symptoms, that engine was a 76 2F that had a shaved F head installed. Took a bit to diagnose, found exhaust in the coolant and at the time I just replaced the head to fix it.
This time around I have an 87 2F in the same FJ40. It has flat top pistons, rings and valves seal well, head gasket is new and I know I torqued it correctly, no water in the oil or vice versa. As soon as I get some time I'm going to pull the plugs and check for moisture then do a compression test.
Wondering what my next step is. Doubt heads can be repaired so it seems I need to find another yet again. Later 2F heads seem to be hard to find and expensive, are they my only option? Is it possible to swap an earlier 2F or possibly a later F head onto my 87 block? Appreciate any insight,
was truly hoping to get this 'ol 40 back on the road soon. Searched but can find only limited information on this topic. Thanks!!!
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If you have a flat top piston a later F and any 2F head will fit. I guess the compression will be different with different heads.Finished up my head gasket install, adjusted valves, filled up the oil and coolant then started it up. Running great to my surprise, none of my hoses are leaking and it sounds like the valves are within spec, so I let it idle for a few minutes and warm up.
This time around I have an 87 2F in the same FJ40. It has flat top pistons, rings and valves seal well, head gasket is new and I know I torqued it correctly, no water in the oil or vice versa. As soon as I get some time I'm going to pull the plugs and check for moisture then do a compression test.
Wondering what my next step is. Doubt heads can be repaired so it seems I need to find another yet again. Later 2F heads seem to be hard to find and expensive, are they my only option? Is it possible to swap an earlier 2F or possibly a later F head onto my 87 block? Appreciate any insight,
was truly hoping to get this 'ol 40 back on the road soon. Searched but can find only limited information on this topic. Thanks!!!
Jeez! I had that happen to me..... and yes I had to play it cool and get off the road. But I assure my heart was beating out of my chest. I really love the creativity you put into this. Looks factory to me. Job well done.I recently had my hood blow open on my FJ40 at highway speed (forever memorialized in my thread "Have you ever wondered"). During the repair, the 51 year-old rubber hood latch bumpers finally gave up the ghost. I couldn't find anyone stocking OEM replacements so I came up with my own fix that is more like stock than the aftermarket bumpers SOR sells as replacements. I got some rubber feet (for cutting boards as I recall) off Amazon and attached them with stainless steel rivets. Though not OEM, it works quite nicely and was a pretty economical fix. The foot print isn't identical (and it has a hollow center for the fastener) so it doesn't perfectly cover the area where the old bumpers rubbed off the paint so I need to address that before it starts to rust. Still, I was pleased with the result.View attachment 3519878View attachment 3519879View attachment 3519881View attachment 3519882
spray the outside of the bushings with a bit of silicon spray and they install easier (at least they did for me)Let the fun begin, starting on my axle swap. Going from a 74 drum to an 81 with a parking brake on the axle. Also drilled the perches so I can push the axle back a smidge. Installing new energy bushings, they are putting up a little fight as they seem thicker on the flange compared to stock Toyota bushings.
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thanks. I believe my hangers are just beat up enough that they dont have the same clearance as when they were new. I of course will lube them up.spray the outside of the bushings with a bit of silicon spray and they install easier (at least they did for me)
I suggest a leak-down test in addition to the compression test per @45Dougal - it could tell you if the head is leaking in the exhaust or intake valves etc.Searched but can find only limited information on this topic. Thanks!!!
Sounds to me like @Green Bean had @cruisermatt do the critical setup. Then on a dropout third member like Toyota it’s a pretty simple swap to install done third members.@Green Bean if I might ask, have you been inside any differential before? Try to determine the critical complexity of the measurements involved. Would I be able to do this on my own, so to speak. I have surprised my self with successes in so many different repairs and re-builds over the decades. I have never been intimidated to dig into anything……but this one just seems to need a lot of precision….. thanks
@Green Bean if I might ask, have you been inside any differential before? Try to determine the critical complexity of the measurements involved. Would I be able to do this on my own, so to speak. I have surprised my self with successes in so many different repairs and re-builds over the decades. I have never been intimidated to dig into anything……but this one just seems to need a lot of precision….. thanks
@Green Bean if I might ask, have you been inside any differential before? Try to determine the critical complexity of the measurements involved. Would I be able to do this on my own, so to speak. I have surprised my self with successes in so many different repairs and re-builds over the decades. I have never been intimidated to dig into anything……but this one just seems to need a lot of precision….. thanks
@knuckle47 I didn't try to set up the gears. While it looks doable, it also looked like something that I could easily screw up. For me any way, as @Skreddy said, I just let @cruisermatt work his magic since he is all set up for that. Removing and installing the 3rd member is pretty straightforward but boy are they heavy and unwieldy. I think that it would be far easier with a lift and a proper transmission jack setup.@Green Bean if I might ask, have you been inside any differential before? Try to determine the critical complexity of the measurements involved. Would I be able to do this on my own, so to speak. I have surprised my self with successes in so many different repairs and re-builds over the decades. I have never been intimidated to dig into anything……but this one just seems to need a lot of precision….. thanks
As I say “One day….or Day 1.” You get to decide.I really wanna drive my Land Cruisers for the next few decades