What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (95 Viewers)

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Can’t wait for @jonheld to see that you did the PIN 7 MOD...

Named the PIN 7 MOD because you are modifying pin #7 not seven pins...

:rofl:
HA! That's what I get when I write a post and I've got 80 series mods on my mind. 7 PIN MOD!!! :rofl:
 
HA! That's what I get when I write a post and I've got 80 series mods on my mind. 7 PIN MOD!!! :rofl:
THIS is the 7-pin:

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Washed it in preparation for the weekend. It's been a while since she's seen soap. I almost thought about using tire shine too. Almost.

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I have to say, it’s a great vehicle and am contemplating picking one up for mysel

But are you a lesbian?? :flipoff2:

Do yourself a favor and check out the new RDX. Plan on picking one up towards the end of the year. It's really freaking nice and handles like a sports car. Acura did everything right with this new platform.

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Washed it in preparation for the weekend. It's been a while since she's seen soap. I almost thought about using tire shine too. Almost.

qOFjyD3h.jpg

And you’re going to get her all dirty on a fire road that my new lesbaru could handle! :rofl:
 
And you’re going to get her all dirty on a fire road that my new lesbaru could handle! :rofl:

I'm totally doing fire roads this weekend and I'm gonna enjoy every bit of it!
 
But are you a lesbian?? :flipoff2:

Do yourself a favor and check out the new RDX. Plan on picking one up towards the end of the year. It's really freaking nice and handles like a sports car. Acura did everything right with this new platform.

feSlvwXh.jpg


Zm5LRZg.jpg

I did look at them but they are a bit too fancy schmancy for my taste. And pricey too. My Outback was $25k plus $1000 for the 7 yr/100k bumper to bumper. (I know, never buy the extended warranty...) $27k out the door with TTL. Or $40k+ for the RDX.
 
I did look at them but they are a bit too fancy schmancy for my taste. And pricey too. My Outback was $25k plus $1000 for the 7 yr/100k bumper to bumper. (I know, never buy the extended warranty...) $27k out the door with TTL. Or $40k+ for the RDX.

Oh yeah I didn't realize the Outback was that cheap. RDX is definitely a lot more $$$
 
Last minute was able to attend ToyotaFest in Long Beach this past weekend. Hung out with a few 80 owners while the sun scorched my skin.
Had my own aisle as well since I was the last Cruiser. Didn't even wash any of the bird sh*t off :hillbilly:

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I picked my 80 up!!!!!!!!


It's a 97 LX with 190k miles and the previous owner did pretty much every PM there is (except HG). It runs like a top and doesn't appear to burn oil and doesn't leak.

Since picking her up, I bled the brakes with fresh fluid, installed the bh3d double cup holder, and did the CDL and 7-pin mod.


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Clearly making this up or a bot ... ALL 80s burn oil or leak ... at least all mine do :(
 
Clearly making this up or a bot ... ALL 80s burn oil or leak ... at least all mine do :(
Well, no leaks on mine that I've noticed as its sat in my garage. Re: burning oil...TBD as I put miles on it.
 
I know quite a few people that have them and are as crazy in love with them as many of us 80 owners. It just made sense. It’s like if Mr. T had designed a station wagon back in 1993...

I have to say, it’s a great vehicle and am contemplating picking one up for myself for a DD for work.
We love our Outback and I'm thinking of buying an older Forester to commute. But we live in the PNW so it's actually a requirement to own at least one Subie. :)
 
Oh yeah I didn't realize the Outback was that cheap. RDX is definitely a lot more $$$

I went base model as you can get. Manual seats. Cloth. No moonroof. Just like my 1992 80. Outbacks can easily get to $38k.
 
You may want to reconsider where you are placing your lift support pads. You have them on the pinch welds of the body. This is NOT a unibody car and that is NOT an approved lift point for this vehicle. The entire frame, transmission, and engine are hanging from 8 bolts in your body. (I don't see sliders that are attached to the frame)

You need those support pads under the FRAME. Reference the Owner's manual or the FSM for approved lifting points for a jack.

Keep your family safe!

I agree wiht @BILT4ME however, I have not found a good spot to lift an 80 as the frame mounting points seem to have to be before the front and rear LCA's, so it becomes really tippy, especially if you are taking tires and bumpers off the front or rear. Without an engine, it will not work at all.
My question is if anyone has figured out a better method of lifting an 80 on a two post lift?
 
But are you a lesbian?? :flipoff2:

Do yourself a favor and check out the new RDX. Plan on picking one up towards the end of the year. It's really freaking nice and handles like a sports car. Acura did everything right with this new platform.

feSlvwXh.jpg


Zm5LRZg.jpg
You speak the truth. The new RDX is a phenomenal vehicle. Spent some time in one a few weeks back and it really impressed.
 
You may want to reconsider where you are placing your lift support pads. You have them on the pinch welds of the body. This is NOT a unibody car and that is NOT an approved lift point for this vehicle. The entire frame, transmission, and engine are hanging from 8 bolts in your body. (I don't see sliders that are attached to the frame)

You need those support pads under the FRAME. Reference the Owner's manual or the FSM for approved lifting points for a jack.

Keep your family safe!

Thanks for the input. Those spots were the recommended lift points per the lift manufacturer. 6’ tripod jack stands are always added under the axles or frame at all four corners before anyone goes underneath. I’ll check out the FSM.
 
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Thanks for the input. Those spots were the recommended lift points per the lift manufacturer. 6’ tripod jack stands are always added under the axles or frame at all four corners before anyone goes underneath. I’ll check out the FSM.

See the attached page from the FSM. Unfortunately, there are no "approved" points near the center of the truck.

I would still try to set the on the frame wherever possible.

Good work on using the 6 ft jack stands! Those are VERY important!
 

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  • Land Cruiser 80 Series Lift Points.pdf
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Damn, you guys are overthinking things. Yes, do not lift from the pinch weld, but you can lift from anywhere on the frame. I have put my truck on a two post lift more times than I can count. Just drive the truck so the steering wheel is just passed the post, put the front arm under the control arm bracket and extend the rear arm so it is under the rear control arm brackets and you are good to go. No issues taking wheels and tires off, very stable, zero issues.
 
I like lifting my Cruisers from the body mounts. Take off the rubber pad, and use extension pieces to reach up to the mount. The bolt goes inside the extension, and the edge of the extension piece rests on the washer under the bushing. That keeps the lift points out of the way of suspension work, too. :cool:

I've never taken a pic specifically showing that, but you can see it in this one:
 
I like lifting my Cruisers from the body mounts. Take off the rubber pad, and use extension pieces to reach up to the mount. The bolt goes inside the extension, and the edge of the extension piece rests on the washer under the bushing. That keeps the lift points out of the way of suspension work, too. :cool:

I've never taken a pic specifically showing that, but you can see it in this one:
The key difference here is that you are lifting by a welded-on section of the frame, not hanging ALL of the frame, axles, engine, transmission by the body bolts. What you're doing is an acceptable alternative location. It does take a bit of work to get it all lined up.

Thanks for sharing!
 

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