Builds Zed, the Ultimate Cruiser - A Build Thread

[Behemoth60]

Ok folks, here the money shot. I am ready to consummate the purchase.

 

[ForealBoreal]

Albright and a 12v 8274 should run like a champ

 

[lumpy70]

I think I'd like one of the in-cab winch controls like these: 12 Volt Guy. I assume they are over-ridden when the controller is plugged.

This way no more screwing around either losing your controller or stringing it thru the window.

Craig.

 

[crushers]

or a simple 3 way momentary switch if space is tight or you want the clean, uncluttered look.

 

[lumpy70]

Agreed, but I do like the engraved "GET SOME"

 

[Behemoth60]

Whether hydraulic or electric... I will definitely have in-cab controls. Preferably with in -cab control of the clutch to allow free spooling too.

 

[crushers]

those are nice looking switches, no disagreement.

i had a 3 way that snapped perfectly into a factory switch opening on my 70, most wouldn't even knew that it wasn't factory.

i found a source for small indicator lables ... i will see if i can find a pic of them, makes for a nice finished look.

here we go:

 

[lowenbrau]

Ok folks, here the money shot. I am ready to consummate the purchase.

View attachment 656070

IBTL

Far be it from me to disparage your accounting skills (especially after you helped me wring 10 Gs out of the tax dept) but that doesn't seem like enough plastic bills.

Winches are a heartache. Just make sure you only go places with villagers nearby. That's how all the cool kids are getting out of the mud these days.

I think that timing cover gear driven hydro pump is worth a look-see. I suspect it will be too small for a winch though.

 

[Hulsty]

There are 13 bt engines with a steering pump mounted on the distribution cover, i beleive its on a coaster, perhaps if you can find this kind of cover you can mount your pump on the distribution cover. If your interested im even offer to find out the part number...

I know that 14B/T's had a different timing case with a gear driven hydraulic pump for the power steering, similar to a 1HZ and late Nissan TD42, could be an option to look at and fit a larger pump.

 

[The Dude]

love love love it!!

Hurry up on the 5 link so I can see if it's doable and I just can't figure it out. I run into pumpkin issues, bump stop issues and a host of other clearance problems with trying to add that 4th link on the driver side.

Maybe it's the 60 frame and 12H-T

I am going to try the PTO in the rear like Wayne did on that troopie and go 24V 8274 up front with that albright controller.

With your newly acquired attention to electrical detail, I think the 8274 is the way to go.

 

[Behemoth60]

Far be it from me to disparage your accounting skills (especially after you helped me wring 10 Gs out of the tax dept) but that doesn't seem like enough plastic bills.

Those plastic bills don't fan out nicely like the old cotton money. How about a height shot. Does that seem better

 

[Behemoth60]

With your newly acquired attention to electrical detail, I think the 8274 is the way to go.

Aw... that's nice to say!

While I don't deny the venerable history and reputation of the 8274, I am thinking that I will have the height to mount a low profile winch fully under the rad. Then I can bring the bumper in super-tight to the griddle. Besides, I've always thought you want your winch mounted as low as possible to maximize the chances for that bit of 'lift' effect as you are winching out of something.

BUT... that wil be one of the last things I mount around everything else.

 

[Behemoth60]

The deal is done. Zed came home with me yesterday.

 

[Behemoth60]

First Impressions:

The paint on the Driver's side is seriously faded, oxidized and bad. It's like the clear coat has peeled off. Decals are peeling quite bad too. This must have been the side facing ***ushima or something, because the rest of the paint and decals are ok.

There are three places with surface rust.. one spot on driver's door, A spot on the front DS fender, and around the right rear door window. The rest of the rust is well hidden... even the rockers under the doors do not exhibit any surface rust.

Panels are really straight. One ding in the passenger side door, and a ding in the drivers side fender. Interior is very clean. Crack in the windshield. No scratches. All the door panels line up. I didn't crawl under it but what I could see the frame seems to still have most of it's factory paint. This is the perfect candidate truck for what I am going to do with it.

 

[crushers]

sounds like a great candidate ...
you are not wheeling this one till all the armor is installed ... right?

 

[Behemoth60]

you are not wheeling this one till all the armor is installed ... right?

That's the #1 piece of advice I give everyone. "Armor it up BEFORE you wheel it".

 

[The Dude]

Are you doing hydroboost on this truck?

I am scouring for a 1 ton GM unit and looking at going with a PSC PS pump.

I would LOVE to get rid of the vacuum pump and go to a much bigger alternator. How does the 13B-T shut down? Does it use the VSV valves?

 

[crushers]

i bought a stand alone vacumm pump to run the brakes and vacumm needs on the BJ70 work truck so i could run a 240 amp alternator ...
just a suggestion, sorry for the highjack.

 

[Tapage]

i could run a 240 amp alternator ...

small hijack ..

240 amps alt ..

 

[The Dude]

Do you remember what kind the pump was. I would only need it for the VSV solenoids.

anything over 150amps would be sweet