[crushers]

first off this is a full frame off refurbishing. i do not call my work restorations since they are not and i have yet to see ANYONE do a true restoration (although there is one in the classifieds that comes pretty darn close).
unless every spot weld in in the factory location, every seam exactly like it was from factory, color is the same code then it is a refurbish. unless the engine, tranny, t/case, front end, rear end is completely rebuilt using ONLY FACTORY parts it is a refurbish NOT a true restoration.

hence the term "refurbish".

this build will have the 1HZ, H55F, 2 piece t/case, 7* series rear disc unit with elock, 78 40 front diff. it will have the 60 series power steering conversion and a full custom fiberglass body with enough goodies to tickle anyones fancy.

the goal is a unit that is practicle for an everyday driver, a medium duty off road truck, the ability to tow 3000 lbs comfortably and return high 20s for fuel milage but still be able to lug down to 400 rpm when needed. it needs to be quiet, reliable and yet powerfull.

so for the tear down and install of the drivetrain i will post this here. the body rebuild will be posted in the 40 section.

if anyone has any concerns with this arrangement then let me know.

if anyone has any questions, pointers, suggestions or comments feel free to post up. if they are worthy of a comment i will respond... this should be an interesting and informative thread to those thinking of such a swap, it will be relative to a HDT isntall, a PZ install or the 1HZ...

lets get started...

[crushers]

now then some back ground...
i had a custoemr contact me with a build that he recieved from another Land Cruiser restorer (is that a word?).
the recommended build was a turbo'd 3B with a H55F and a full steel body build. as many of you know i am not a big fan of installing a dated engine into a build for anyone that is looking at a unit they want to drive for the next 10-20 years. parts for the B series engines are already going obsolete faster than the Dodo bird went extinct. to invest $65K into a build that might just end up sitting in your driveway because of a part you can not find is just idioacracy.

i responded with the following suggestions:
galvanizing is for bridges.
steel will rust no matter what you do to it.
3B is a good engine but underpowered and dated.

so the build i suggested was the one above. an engine that is still in production today
a tranny that is perfect for this engine and that is reliable and smooth shifting
disc brakes all around for better stopping ability in the outback and on the streets and highways in California.
a body that can not rust and one that is quiet, strong and easily repaired at any quality boat shop.

the customer wants a 20 year truck and agreed this fits the bill...

first up, the donor rig, the engine, the turbo, the 60 series power steering install and the drive down to the new location:

<the first section is the build back in Calgary so it is a bit on the "quick" not detailed side... once the frame is sand blasted and painted i will take more time and more pics>

[crushers]

why this one?
for one reason, it has an excellent frame.
the decent parts can be sold to recoup some of the investment.
it is ugly to say the least, i knew the owner from new so there was a history i can call on.

[crushers]

the 2F removed along with the H41 and once piece t/case. you can see the 60 series power steering box installed on the front frame just before the shock tower.
the "new" 1HZ with 80K on it.
oil feed line from the oil sensor location to the turbo.

[crushers]

the turbo installed...

[crushers]

the missing factory steering tower and box.
the 60 series box installed
the linkage finished <on the new tub the pillow block will be installed>

[crushers]

locating the engine
first step of the engine mount is to bolt the flat plate to the engine mount.
next run the pieces that go between the frame and the flat piece. tack into place and move on...

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

Wayne, good to see that you are still busy fixing and building rigs!

This looks to be a great build thread! I've been interested in the 1HZ NA for the last 2 - 3 years as a replacement for the 2F.

Good luck!

Alan

[DanS HJ-45]

Keep the updates coming Wayne!

I like what I'm seeing. A lot.

Dan

[Ron R]

Nice pics Wayne, allready found interesting info on them.

Keep posting.....

[roscoFJ73]

Hope thats a 12V 1HZ?

Nice build up. This thing will fly

[crushers]

as you can see, fitting the 60 series power steering box into a 40 is TIGHT. one way is to cut off the factory tower and make a new one from scratch.
what i did was notch the factory tower, this gives a 1/8" (3mm) clearence for the PS housing. the HZ starter wants to exist in the same space that the factory steering box occupies. Bruce Lowen came over and took a look, suggested the 60 series box as a solution and ... well the rest is history. Thanks Bruce.

even with the 60 series box and linkage you can see the tight fit of the 1HZ on the left side of the 40 series engine bay. the blokes with RHD will have a much easier install.

once again, when the new fiberglass tub goes on i will add a pillow block to the steering shaft coming through the firewall.

[crushers]

clearences are very crucial since the 2 piece case with vacumm shift has 1" clearence between the frame rails.
the bellhousing is sitting perfect.
the rear driveshaft angle couldn't be better.
time to move on...

[crushers]

more fittment shots.
i am using a 7* series crosmember since i found the 40 series H55F member to have the wrong pitch. also since it is a 78 the rear engine/tranny mount was off the bell housing which wouldn't work with this setup.

i used ratch tie downs for minor adjustments, they were perfect for moving a 1/4" (6mm) this way and that and for holding the engine perfectly level. once again the fitment is crucial so adjust, modify, adjust, modify...done.

the Right hand side of the engine...looking good...

[crushers]

more fitment shots

looks damn near factory for position.

the left hand side is TIGHT

another shot of the left hand side. the power steering pump on the 1HZ is lower left corner and the 60 series PS box is the same location...SWEET. super short PS lines and the end product is a clean PS install...

[crushers]

once again fitment... i cannot say this enough. if you are off 1/2" then it doesn't fit properly.

almost time to button it up.

now remember also this was a quicky install to get the truck ready for the drive to Ontario from Calgary, a trip of over 3500 km. the truck will be pulling 3000 lbs of trailer and carrying another 1000 in the back. i did not want any breakdowns or issues on the drive.

lets carry on...

[crushers]

other than the 60 series PS box on the front left corner it looks like a stock 40...Wolf in Sheeps clothing!!

[crushers]

3 more fitment shots...

[crushers]

the gauges, someone was asking about how they fit... here you go...

the senders

pretty simple so far and at this point i was about 24 working hours into the build...

[crushers]

a final couple shots.

the PS lines to the box... SHORT!!

the 60 series looks like it belongs there. the drag link, tie rod ends are all factory new. no cutting, no welding involved at that end...

i beleive that might be it for now...

[crushers]

Alan,
one of the nice things about the 1HZ swap is you use the gasser rad...

Rosco, it was a 24V that i switched over to 12V electrics.

thanks for the comments guys...

[crushers]

ooops found another folder of shots...

lets carry on...

this is in Ontario now... the truck ran perfect for the drive down and averaged 27.9 mpg pulling 3000 lbs at 55 mph. we had no problems on the hills and could pass when we wanted to UPHILL. i would recommend this swap for anyone that wants the best of all worlds, fuel economy, power, reliability and quiet.

i am jumping past the tear down of the body and we are at the engine again..

i have no comments at this time

[crushers]

more of the tear down...

down to a bare frame is the goal, repair any deficencies, sand blast, paint and reassemble...

the goal is to have this truck ready for the customer by the end of the year... LOL!! i can always dream right?

[rustyfj40]

I Have my 1982 in the shop now with the 1hz beside it, just taking a look at the frame trying to deside if there is to much rust to mess with this frame. Thanks for all the pictures they will help this build.

[crushers]

seriously, the only thing you REALLY need is a solid frame to work with... everything else can be replaced...

this is the reason for my posts, to help the other cruiserheads out...
when i was starting into Cruisers back in 81 there was no one to turn to for help, no internet and the Toyota dealerships were useless... they kept all the info to themselves... now most of them are still useless but because they have no one that works on these...

cheers and best luck in your decision...

[tmarx]

I have been waiting for this thread for a while, thanks for posting.

Are you going to re-route the exhaust to the passenger side ?

You do alot in 24 hrs !

[crushers]

4 x 6 hour days...
that was up to the exhaust work. (here is the interesting thing i had just finished a 1HZ into a 60 the week before and that was under 30 hours complete)

it is not a big deal to install an engine into a cruiser, common sense and a basic mechanical knowledge is really all you need (oh and a good fab shop to allow you to use their tools)

the exhaust is staying routed the way it is, i did this for a reason. i HATE the way the factory exhaust goes out over the frame and then back in again and across the back. i also am installing a drop box in the back for extra storage so no exhaust will fit through there anyway.

[tmarx]

Well although my 3B is in good shape now I have always had it in the back of my mind that someday it won't be the case and as the 3B was never sold in ZA I had reason for concerns in spite of the TOY interchangabillity of parts between variou models.The 1HZ is however freely available so my options have just been increased ...

[crushers]

since we are considering powder coating the frame all the holes that need patching, drill and any welding should be completed first.
this is the Man-a-free rear bumper. i have to say i like the build, the strength and the design but the finish, unreal, you can pick the powder coating off with your fingernail. VERY POOR. you can see the finish in the last pic.
this is sad since the last one of these bumpers i installed was very well coated.

[crushers]

on to the front bumper.
the old bumper was welded to the frame so care had to be taken to remove without damaging the frame below.