__________________ we are all given sh*t in life, but some of us learn to turn it into fertilizer and grow from it, and some us try to fling it on others like monkeys.
"The very worst thing you can to to a cruiser is half thought out mods that are underfunded and never quite get finished. Then you end up with hacked junk that doesn't work, and some future owner will curse you and all of your children."
the old girl moved into the shop yesterday to get a 1.5" body lift.
since this is a very extensive build i needed the lift on to set up for the rear PTO winch, the proper height for the side bars, location of the top of the bumper, the front side bars and the location of the rear bumper and side step.
first things first.
here is a list of what is being done to the truck over the next few months: P/C = sand blasted and powder coated light matte grey
Metric bolts through out, S/S preferred where acceptable in tolerance specified, plated where strength is needed.
Steel below window height, alloy above window height.
Painting and final prep of body to be arranged by customer.
PTO winch rear with possible shaft drive to the front. inspected and corrected, painted.
Tabs for lights
Protection for lights P/C
Skid bars from under bumper to below rad, P/C
Shackle protectors, P/C
Custom shackles, P/C
Bumper like the original Roo bar but in steel and modified accordingly with tow triangles, P/C
Front HD 70 series front diff dismantled, rebuilt using top quality parts, P/C, factory electric locker, HD birfields, manual locking hubs, vent line to frame.
Dobinson spring pack with rubber bushings
RS9000 shocks
Dropped sway bar mounts
Frame, modified as required, P/C gray, same gray as all the other P/C stuff
Turbo, top mount intercooler, air compressor, wabasto, sensors, manual glow system, upgraded alternator, dual batteries with isolator,
Larger rad (check for alloy replacement),
Factory viscous fan.
Full Clutch replace with slave and master also replaced with new
Rear full floater diff removed, dismantled, P/C, reassembled with factory electric locker, vent line to the frame level.
Driveshaft inspected and corrected, P/C
Secondary fuel tank installed, P/C, S/S fuel line to the front with feeder pump and dual filters. Must have drain in S/S fuel tanks (both) at lowest point of tanks; drains must be lockable when shut.
Skid tube protection, P/C
Side bar protection with expanded steel “running board” and removable fender protection front, P/C
Rear bumper with dual removable swing out tire carriers, hidden winch, hitch, wiring, tow triangles, signal light inserts protected by expanded steel, P/C
Skid bars to rear of axle and out the side of the body to the outer edge of the tires to make a step with expanded steel.
1.5” body lift with grade 8 bolting applied.
Remove side windows and replace with alloy panels with storage boxes and access from outside. Send side windows and associated trim with finished vehicle.
Inner rear doors with drop down panels with storage inside, P/C
Inner side panels with inner storage, interior and exterior access, body colour.
Front door panels leave alone.
Rear diff fluid level sensor/t/case level sensor/tranny level sensor/pyrometer/water temp/oil pressure at turbo gauges. Factory gauges still functional.
No stereo or speakers-another item to be sorted out by customer
Wabasto heater.
Interior rear heater hooked into plumbing with remote switch.
Cargo barrier with access slider to rear and removable from truck, P/C
Hidden floor boxes were possible.
Hood strong enough to walk and stand on left in whatever finish it came with; intercooler scoop and receiver for windshield protector screen.
Alloy windshield protector screen, P/C, removable with top mount clips.
Alloy roof rack with tabs for 4 front off road lights and protection, receiver for windscreen, slide out sand bridging, rear back up light tabs, disconnect electrical wiring for removal of roof rack, mounting for roof top tent, fold down rear storage flap for sand bridges, mount for high-lift and shovel on side but tucked in tight, single level, tabs on the front for removable wire rope, P/C
Small roof vents, four if possible, that are sealable when closed, low profile.
Rubber flex mud flaps to be installed at all 4 wheel openings.
Water tank under body 50L size, with S/S fittings. Must be removable.
starting on the body lift:
__________________ we are all given sh*t in life, but some of us learn to turn it into fertilizer and grow from it, and some us try to fling it on others like monkeys.
low profile winches are shit in my world. i looked at doing a 8274 at the back but not reasonable. we looked at making the winch a slide out but not feasable.
the customer wanted the shafts for driving other accessories and made the decision to go with PTO. sorry if i came across suggesting this is for me, i can't afford these builds.
__________________ we are all given sh*t in life, but some of us learn to turn it into fertilizer and grow from it, and some us try to fling it on others like monkeys.
What about making the water tank sit on 4 rails. The tank slides between the gaps and pins in place using bolts. Just make sure the Owner knows to empty the tank before mounting and dismounting. The hardware has to be at one of the ends with QD hardware. There should also be a supporting strap just to be safe secured to the frame.
i run heavy gauge polly most of the time and it catches most of the crap, you will see it down again once we start on the tear down or fabrication work.
i have not decided what to put on the floor yet so just trying to protect it till the decision is made. paint is nice but slippery, tile is nice but is it practical? epoxy is like POR, once it is down you are fawked if something goes sideways. mats might be the answer or just polly for wrenching and plywood for fabrication.
hummm,,,
__________________ we are all given sh*t in life, but some of us learn to turn it into fertilizer and grow from it, and some us try to fling it on others like monkeys.
Will be interesting to see how you run the PTO shafts to the rear winch since the shaft hooks up to the left side of the winch (from the drivers seat), right in the middle of the rear gas tank. And, wouldn't you only be able to wind in with reverse? Or are you making some type of gearbox? You'll have quite the time with that
The new 79 series rads are aluminum, I never have cooling issues, but my truck isn't packed with gear.
__________________ Louis
"At the end of the money why is there so much month left?"
Louis,
the shaft will run to the LHS of the vehicle same as the front.
the PTO is a worm gear and doesn't care if it is turning right or left.
the PTO will be flipped and the cable will be coming in from the top of the drum OVER the rear frame cross member. there will be 5 speeds coming in. the down side will be if he wants to be able to winch in AND turn the tires in reverse then he will need to wind out the cable and feed it back in UNDER the rear frame cross member.
clear?
new as in all 79 series or just the last couple years?
__________________ we are all given sh*t in life, but some of us learn to turn it into fertilizer and grow from it, and some us try to fling it on others like monkeys.
How do the fluid level sensors in the diff and transfer work?
Quote:
Originally Posted by lshobie
Will be interesting to see how you run the PTO shafts to the rear winch since the shaft hooks up to the left side of the winch (from the drivers seat), right in the middle of the rear gas tank.
Doesnt look like it has a rear tank, spare is underneath not on the door.
Gauges,
as far as i know the low level sensor carries a current as long as the fluid is up, once the fluid drops it breaks the contact and the light comes on.
Rear tank,
correct, there isn't one plus the shaft for the PTO will be running in the void above the frame.
__________________ we are all given sh*t in life, but some of us learn to turn it into fertilizer and grow from it, and some us try to fling it on others like monkeys.
crushers
1981 Toyota 
HJ75 Pickup
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser HZJ77
D'Animal
Beagle Chariot
Beagle Chariot 2
Beagle Chariot 2
Beagle Chariot 2
The Blue One
Ultimate "Green" Recycler
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