Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (2 Viewers)

[Spike Strip]

The trick with Cork Gaskets (for me anyway) is to apply a THIN smear of black or Gray RTV and then FINGER TIGHT the cover. Cork is absorbent and will squish if you try to torque right away. Let the RTV cure for a few hours, even better over-night, then torque to spec. They never leak that way.

F- Only use the Nachi bearing Pilot bearing from Toyota or OEM. There is a Nachi equivalent available but I forget the number ... @OSS has posted about this ... What is the condition of the output shaft nose on the transmission?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The trick with Cork Gaskets (for me anyway) is to apply a THIN smear of black or Gray RTV and then FINGER TIGHT the cover. Cork is absorbent and will squish if you try to torque right away. Let the RTV cure for a few hours, even better over-night, then torque to spec. They never leak that way.

F- Only use the Nachi bearing Pilot bearing from Toyota or OEM. There is a Nachi equivalent available but I forget the number ... @OSS has posted about this ... What is the condition of the output shaft nose on the transmission?

It’s light brown... thin wipeable layer of rust on it. I’ve yet to get in the bay and put a light to it. Again, I tell you, it’s a damn good thing I’m little or I may have been an ass and f’d it all up if I’d pulled that hoist too hard.
I’ll get in there tmrw and check it out. I take it I’m looking at the splines to see if they have excessive wear?

 

[Spike Strip]

Splines, yes, but if it has been shifting ok I wouldn't worry about it... I was referring to the nose on the input shaft. If the bearing is bad it wears down the shaft nose that fits into the bearing.

For the Flywheel bolts, if you have access to a 1/2" Air Impact Gun (you have a compressor now, yes?) it's way easy. They can be had cheap at Harbor Freight sales. Even the electric guns work fine. If at some point they were Red Loctite'd, you'll wish you had one.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The trick with Cork Gaskets (for me anyway) is to apply a THIN smear of black or Gray RTV and then FINGER TIGHT the cover. Cork is absorbent and will squish if you try to torque right away. Let the RTV cure for a few hours, even better over-night, then torque to spec. They never leak that way.

F- Only use the Nachi bearing Pilot bearing from Toyota or OEM. There is a Nachi equivalent available but I forget the number ... @OSS has posted about this ... What is the condition of the output shaft nose on the transmission?

It’s light brown... thin wipeable layer of rust on it. I’ve yet to get in the bay and put a light to it. I tell you tho, it’s a damn good thing I’m little or mean guy have been an ass and f’d it all up if I’d pulled that hoist too hard.

Splines, yes, but if it has been shifting ok I wouldn't worry about it... I was referring to the nose on the input shaft. If the bearing is bad it wears down the shaft nose that fits into the bearing.

For the Flywheel bolts, if you have access to a 1/2" Air Impact Gun (you have a compressor now, yes?) it's way easy. They can be had cheap at Harbor Freight sales. Even the electric guns work fine. If at some point they were Red Loctite'd, you'll wish you had one.

Thanks. I’ll check out the nose tmrw. My little Ryobi 18v isn’t quite getting them but I can tell that they’ll come like the one that has... I’m not too worried. Just keeps me more careful.

 

[FJACS]

Nice work so far. It looks like you got it out without damaging other stuff...always good.

Considering you’ve already got the head done, you could have this back and running by Friday night

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Nice work so far. It looks like you got it out without damaging other stuff...always good.

Considering you’ve already got the head done, you could have this back and running by Friday night

Funny guy. Nah... I’ve begged a transport from the powder coater in town but I need to get everything off and out. Easily could be a week at the way I’m going!
I was highly tempted to go grab my uncles little ‘01 Tacoma in RI but that would be a bunch of drive time. It is nice to know tho he’s cool w/ me borrowing it.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Wedging the flywheel just so took some hard thinking but finally got it.
Celebrating the removal of the flywheel and bellhousing w/ a breakfast feast!
And yes, FW will get resurfaced. Feels like a well glazed rotor.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Nose looks good Alf, @Spike Strip.

 

[Willard]

Little emery cloth that will clean right up.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

And the HB nut is now loose thanks to some more creative thinking.
And my weld still looks like it did when I laid it.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Me! I can’t believe I did this!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Me! I can’t believe I did this!

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I can!

 

[Infinity00]

Think of the color schemes you can paint all that raw canvass!

 

[Gretsch]

Me! I can’t believe I did this!

View attachment 2006136

I had no doubts you could do this. Great work!!!

 

[Rube]

Me! I can’t believe I did this!

You really are badass and continually a source of knowledge and wealth of information. You make the forums better F.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Care to elaborate? I’d love to hear your advice. I’ll peobably tear back into it soon enough. How do you get a torque wrench to work properly behind the HB? Sorry to hijack your thread, F.

Hey popping back in here because I had not read this through well... I didn't see your question about the torque of the bolts behind the HB Chris. Unless you have a torque wrench with an adaptor for an open box wrench you have to go by feel. Initially the larger two bolts should be applied with sealer along their threads. All the bolts should be finger tight/loose THEN the HB slide on and its nut tightened THEN the timing cover bolts are fully tightened.
I was only seconding the question to Matt @cruisermatt because I was curious how he applies sealer to the cork gaskets also. It is a learned art for sure. I've been in and out of that area twice and the last time having removed my timing plate and the cam, going back in I did a poor job and had a steady annoying leak from behind the plate. I used black rtv, because its supposed to be most oil resistant (yet that only means the sealer, not anything around it) instead of the toyota fipg because the black sealer remains rubbery and the fipg will become hard.
Maybe my thinking was wrong. Its all definitely a learned process. I added the sealer and waited a bit for it to tack up and tightened slowly so as not to just squish it out of the mating surfaces. I used the black stuff for my oil pan too but only in the arches, none along the length and it didn't leak at all. Actually when I pulled the pan I was ASTOUNDED at how tight the cork glued itself to the block, it took wicked prying with a thin slightly bent frosting knife to get between to break the seal! At the arches tho it leaked some which was HIGHLY frustrating. I do believe tho that my method of adding the gasket to the block first is the way to go. But any and all who have figured out the trick to sealer and which one to cork gaskets, please speak now!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

So I have been doing some homework... Throw-out Bearing. Photos are on my phone which kid has now to play a stack the states game (kid is a master at geography!)... Mine appears good. Spins smooth. I have a original '79 Chassis book coming from ebay soon but whats the thinking on it mud? Does it HAVE to be replaced or will I be an ass if I don't replace it "while I am in there?"

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Holy Crapola! I need this in my engine bay! Orange is my favorite color and now I know my block will be sporting it! Thanks Marshall, @Trollhole for the idea off your Big Gay 2F build thread I found wile reading up on cam shafts in the stickies.

Hows that for color @evilorgoodtwin?! LOVE at first sight!

 

[Willard]

So I have been doing some homework... Throw-out Bearing. Photos are on my phone which kid has now to play a stack the states game (kid is a master at geography!)... Mine appears good. Spins smooth. I have a original '79 Chassis book coming from ebay soon but whats the thinking on it mud? Does it HAVE to be replaced or will I be an ass if I don't replace it "while I am in there?"

The kit comes with a new throw-out bearing so you should absolutely replace it. While dropping the tranny is easy enough it is a pain in the ass.
There is no reason not to replace it. If you do not have a press, send it to me and I will press a new one on for you. If you have a press it is easy.
The Toyota bearing is better, but the one in the AISIN kit is just fine.

Oh and now that I got my 60 out of the garage, I am able to find that package I need to send you. It will go this week.