Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (6 Viewers)

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Another trick of getting stuck screws is to drive them around with a punch and hammer. Catch the outside edge with a sharp punch and your going to drive the punch into it at an angle so it makes a small cut and grabs ...then turn it by driving it around with a bfh.
 
Another trick of getting stuck screws is to drive them around with a punch and hammer. Catch the outside edge with a sharp punch and your going to drive the punch into it at an angle so it makes a small cut and grabs ...then turn it by driving it around with a bfh.
Tried that too.
 
Ok so finally got ballsy enough to put some heat on the timing plate torx screw heads then turned up the speed on the impact wrench and they zipped right out.
Tapped the plate off w/ a dowel of wood and my sand mallet. Got the majority of the gasket off but will work at it a bit more possibly after work tmrw. (Photos are from before I started to clean).
Plate does not simply come off by bringing upward, it has to tip toward the passenger side then up and outward.
Tried to loosen the front main cap to check the bearing but those bolts are in wicked. Appear to be the same size as the headbolts so it makes sense they’d be in so tight.

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That’s so great! Excellent work. Way to keep working at it. Note the oil slinger thingy comes off with the plate for future reference to anyone searching for that tid bit.

I’d leave the Oiler just where it is.

Now about those mains. Get an air impact driver from harbor freight. Makes life so much easier. I know I know, you don’t use those. A 3’ pipe should do it then!!!
 
And the crankshaft gear doesn’t have to come off either!
 
I have no compressor so air won’t happen.
The oil slinger is still inplace too, I just have the plate flipped over.
 
I could see the back side of it. It’s nice and even with the back side of the plate.
 
I could see the back side of it. It’s nice and even with the back side of the plate.
Yes, it’s staked inplace too. I’ll get a photo tmrw. Plate needed some slight guiding w/ a skinny flathead cuz the gasket was holding it to the block.
 
While under the truck today I laid down a tarp as the driveway was super wet... my dogs felt the front section was made especially for them. My trusty mutts kept me company while I pissed and groaned trying to get those nuts torqued.
And just a bit ago I’m reading through the fsm, a turn of the page and to my surprise and annoyance, the con rad caps are not 90ish ft/lb, they are only 35-54!!! I’d mistakenly read the specs for the mains.

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Those are going to be stretched now :(
 
Those are going to be stretched now :(
I ordered and am waiting for new nuts. But I gather your saying the studs themself are stretched too? Can I get away w/ just nuts? I wasn’t able to fully get the wrench to click at 90.
 
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I ordered and am waiting for new nuts. But I gather your saying the studs themself are stretched too? Can I get away w/ just nuts? I wasn’t able to fully get the wrench to click at 90.

The studs will be stretched. I would not recommend starting it with out replacing them.
 
As I recall, they are not studs, but special bolts, and easy to replace.
 
I wouldn’t worry about stretched bolts. Didn’t happen - not at 90ft lb on a high grade fastner. Maybe if you had made the wrench click at 250ftlb or something... but 90 i wouldn’t sweat it.

That said, I’d always replace the nuts, and I’d plasti gauge the new bearings to make sure the are within spec.
 
I was wondering the same thing as @FJACS stated. There should be some information on that type of bolt and what it would take to stretch it. You’d be surprised at what you can learn by making a simple call to a bolt manufacturing place and asking to speak to an engineer.
 
Look what I did. One semi good bead, ground it down very little and HB slides on. ;)

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Welded it?!? Goodbye JB weld!
 

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