Builds Won a '74 40 on a coin toss... (3 Viewers)

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Installed the OEM temperature sending unit works like a charm! Even though I have an aftermarket gauge that tells an actual number, it is nice having the OEM dash temp gauge working again.
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A couple more Half Dome shots. Here are the infamous cables. That was an eye opener when we got there. That thing is steep!
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One of my favorite river shots from the hike.
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Our group walking through the redwoods. Love this shot too!
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Cathedral Rocks on the way out of Yosemite. Man this place is beautiful. Can't believe I've only been here twice in two decades and I'm 3.5 hours away. :(
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Do you have a link for the steering wheel cover? My steering wheel is cracked and faded from the sun, I was thinking about putting a cover on. I was just about to buy a slip on cover for it this week, I'm glad you posted a picture of yours, it looks really good.

I got this one: AULLY PARK Universal Truck Steering Wheel Cover Genuine Leather Stitch On Wrap, 17-18 Inch, (Size XL, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071F1C7X7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_am8XJ7UDOpy2l

Basically I cut about 3/8"-1/2" off one side. Then I laid it down, folded it in half, and used the existing holes off the other side as a guide to punch holes in the cut side. Unfortunately the needle I used was pretty narrow so it was hard to see the new holes hence taking much longer to thread it. I also didn't do the baseball thread which I think looks much nicer (and they provide you with two strings and two needles to do it if you want - I did watch a video that shows how to do the baseball thread and it recommended using curved needles. The one provided are straight.)

But it is real leather and felt good driving into work today. Looks good too!
 
I got this one: AULLY PARK Universal Truck Steering Wheel Cover Genuine Leather Stitch On Wrap, 17-18 Inch, (Size XL, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071F1C7X7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_am8XJ7UDOpy2l

Basically I cut about 3/8"-1/2" off one side. Then I laid it down, folded it in half, and used the existing holes off the other side as a guide to punch holes in the cut side. Unfortunately the needle I used was pretty narrow so it was hard to see the new holes hence taking much longer to thread it. I also didn't do the baseball thread which I think looks much nicer (and they provide you with two strings and two needles to do it if you want - I did watch a video that shows how to do the baseball thread and it recommended using curved needles. The one provided are straight.)

But it is real leather and felt good driving into work today. Looks good too!

If I could do it again I'd use an awl and small hammer to punch the new holes.
 
Wife's car got hit in the parking lot so it's in the shop for repairs. The mom of the teen that hit the car wanted to pay cash for the repair. So being the nice guy I am I said I'd drive my land cruiser to work this week instead of rent a car (and keep her costs down). Been great driving it everyday other than the Africa hot Monday. Oh and tomorrow and Friday are going to be scorchers. 108 on Friday. That'll make for a sweaty ride home.

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Got the car back from the autobody shop today so I didn't have to drive the cruiser in 109 degree heat. Thank goodness! Put on 108 miles this week. :)

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So how does one know if the steering box needs to be rebuilt? Mine is coated with gunk from who knows how long, appears to have leaked, and I don't know if it has ever been rebuilt. I read @Coolerman's write up on how to rebuild. I also saw his note about shipping it to Mark @65swb45 for a rebuild which sounds like a nice option. Thoughts? Everything else in regards to the steering has been redone, seems like this would be logical to do...
 
Got the car back from the autobody shop today so I didn't have to drive the cruiser in 109 degree heat. Thank goodness! Put on 108 miles this week. :)

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So how does one know if the steering box needs to be rebuilt? Mine is coated with gunk from who knows how long, appears to have leaked, and I don't know if it has ever been rebuilt. I read @Coolerman's write up on how to rebuild. I also saw his note about shipping it to Mark @65swb45 for a rebuild which sounds like a nice option. Thoughts? Everything else in regards to the steering has been redone, seems like this would be logical to do...


West Texas Offroad is a great option as well.
 
Like your pics of the Yosemite area. Just like the pics by pngunme (Danny), may be places I never get to see. Makes me remember places I've hiked to many years ago. I know this is a forum for old Toyota's, but these places from your pics are just like going places in a cruiser.

Don
 
Like your pics of the Yosemite area. Just like the pics by pngunme (Danny), may be places I never get to see. Makes me remember places I've hiked to many years ago. I know this is a forum for old Toyota's, but these places from your pics are just like going places in a cruiser.

Don

Well you have amazingly beautiful places up in Oregon - I can remember driving their thinking some of the rest stops were incredible from a scenery standpoint. :)

Yosemite is a jewel that I'm definitely going to explore more in the future. Hopefully I get to drive my cruiser through it soon!
 
Here is my steering box btw. I'm going to try and rebuild it myself now so I ordered new seals. Hopefully that's all that is needed. I think most everything else is NLA. @Honger i will take it out, blast it, and paint it unlike being lazy like I was with the drag link (which I may end up blasting and painting since I need to remove it to get this out). :)

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Actually washed the cruiser for the first time in I don't know how long. Looks the same lol.

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Installed some sample plugs in my spacers. Perfect fit, looks nice and finished now.
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And finally trashed the old gutter. I was able to fold it up basically to compact it so it could fit in the trash. No sections worth salvaging.
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I had put the search for an OEM roll bar for my 75 on hold because, well I'm not working on it anytime soon and the price I've seen these go for has been insane. @Racer65 sent me a link to a Craigslist ad for a FJ62 for $450. Great deal on a parts truck or rock crawler. I decided while I was there to do a random search for "land cruiser" and for some reason I stopped on one that said, "land cruiser parts". Well low and behold it was a front light and the below OEM roll bar. Appears complete, pads were in decent shape, just has some funky holes for wiring that I'll weld up when the time comes for the 75. Luckily my brother in law could pick it up for me today. Interestingly enough it was $75 for my 75...:). Maybe the craigslist gods are paying me back for that complete hard top for $290 that the guy sold after I committed to buying it...

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Right place, right time and money to seal the deal - - another serendipitous find!:cool:
 
With the cross country expedition looming I need to get my hard top back on. Lots of work to do starting with trying to fix the rust on the side panel. Bought a cheap side panel and cut out the replacement section (it also had glass so I have some backup glass or can sell). Here is the section I needed.

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As you can see lots of holes... :(
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Side by side
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The inside piece sandblasted
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Piece welded in! Not pretty but a little skim coat will hide my lack of skills. Happy to have made good progress on this. Will install the inner piece above on Sunday and hopefully be done with it!
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Well had hoped to have gotten more done on the cruiser this weekend. Worked a ton of hours, doesn't seem like much got done sadly. Body work is a such a time suck when you suck at it. Still not done with it yet but very close. Then comes the top - I have a fiberglass rail so that will need to be bonded to the top. Got everything I need to do that project just need more time. Going to be cutting it tight for the goal of 10/13 for the cross country expedition...

Finally installed @SouthBostonFJ40 's brass bushings - doors are nice and snug what a difference! Curious to see what they're like when driving.
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Here's the repaired rear panel all primed a ready for paint (almost - one wet sand is needed). Need to treat that little rust spot too. Turned out pretty good although definitely had to use a skim coat or three to make it flattish.
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Here is the curved inside section welded back in place. Man my welding sucks but it seems solid. Won't be quitting my day job anytime soon.
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Lastly, does anyone have big gaps between their doors and windshield frame like these? Passenger side first. Does the brace that connects to the B pillar pull the windshield back some? When I pull on the windshield frame I can move it back about 1/8"-1/4" but that's it.
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Driver side is a little better, not as much daylight.
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@mrboatman - I searched the forum and it appears that you can file down the spacer between the windshield frame and the knob that holds the windshield frame in place. Seems pretty simple. Doesn't require much material to be removed it sounds like.

Windshield Frame Adjustment
 
Would putting the roof cap and door headers on pull everything closer together?
I'm waiting to get some good rubber seals from racer to finish up my hard top but my roof and doors have some gaps as well though in different spots

I'm thinking it will pull it some. I don't need much for the driver door but I'm not sure how i'm going to pull the passenger side enough to make up for the gap. We shall see!
 
Would putting the roof cap and door headers on pull everything closer together?
I'm waiting to get some good rubber seals from racer to finish up my hard top but my roof and doors have some gaps as well though in different spots


I thought the same thing but was corrected by some of the 40 gurus. These tubs move a ton and it is hard to get back to good let alone "perfect" which i dont think they ever were.

@ginmtb , if you take the spacers out, will it drop back to meet the doors? The tab on the dash can be bent trying to correct this issue so tread lightly. Alot of time was spent on fitting my builds doors, hardtop and gap. Im curious to see what you come up with.
 

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