Never heard of balancing a pressure plate.
On a tractor anyways.
Can't hurt I guess.
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Never heard of balancing a pressure plate.
On a tractor anyways.
Can't hurt I guess.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
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The PP is already well balanced by Aisin.
Balancing the FW, crank, rods & pistons is nice, they are not real close from the factory.
For serviceability, it is preferred to balance parts parts individually. If not, when one part is changed at a later date the balance is off. IOW, zero balance the FW, then attach PP and zero balance again, only drilling metal off the PP. Now the FW is zero balanced and so is the PP. When the release bearing seizes up & saws through the PP, necessitating PP replacement, it will not require rebalancing the FW.
Balancing the FW, crank, rods & pistons is nice, they are not real close from the factory.
For serviceability, it is preferred to balance parts parts individually. If not, when one part is changed at a later date the balance is off. IOW, zero balance the FW, then attach PP and zero balance again, only drilling metal off the PP. Now the FW is zero balanced and so is the PP. When the release bearing seizes up & saws through the PP, necessitating PP replacement, it will not require rebalancing the FW.
Although there is certainly more than one way to skin a cat, there is no way to install the timing cover with a screwdriver if it is installed according to the recommendations in the manual. The harmonic balancer goes on and stays on while all the little timing cover bolts are then snugged up...with a wrench. No way a screwdriver can reach most of the bolts.Correct. I did test fit the pulley after installation.
I just feared that the timing cover was not centered perfectly with the harmonic balancer and there could be an oil leak after all is said and done. The HB has to be dead center with the oil seal.
But it was probably installed the correct way, and the HB was removed after installing the cover for the picture...
- Thread starter
- #304
ToyotaDon
I am here
Lovin' the Husky toolbox and Craftsman screwdriver. I have to remember you're a parts guy, not a professional technician...but you do nice work.
- Thread starter
- #307
Very true. I am very far from being a professional technician.... Those who know me personally *definitely* know that.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
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- 11,207
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- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
<endorse>
Onur installed the rear suspension on my FJ60 many years ago, and nothing fell off (yet).
</endorse>
Onur installed the rear suspension on my FJ60 many years ago, and nothing fell off (yet).
</endorse>
Is this knowledge that one only gains through experience or common amongst engine builders?
- Thread starter
- #310
DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
Priceless.
Does balancing/not balancing the FW and PP during new clutch install mitigate/cause piston slap?
I'm noticing what I believe to be piston slap right after cold start and until the engine reaches operating temperature, and I wonder if that might be attributed to an unbalanced FW PP as a result of the latest clutch job...and if it might be alleviated by balancing the FW and PP at next clutch job...
- Thread starter
- #313
Sorry for the hi-jack, beno...but it is related to the conversation, so I thought I'd seek further clarification while the clarification-getting is good...
- Thread starter
- #315
No worries. I am interested in hearing any and all information that will make my work easier while at the same time producing the best results for long term reliability and operation.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I thought the whole balancing thing was different. I believe the components are all set to the same weight-ie all pistons machined to the weight of the lightest one, all con rods etc. Then the whole assembly including harmonic balancer and flywheel are assembled and spun to achieve a machined rotating balance. Then the engine gets assembled. I may be wrong here so maybe JimC or others can educate us lay people.
In this case, the block is already together, and the HB is factory balanced, so all you can really do is the flywheel/clutch. Let's be real here. This isn't an F1 motor spinning at 15000 rpm. This is going to spin at 3000 rpm once in awhile. If care has been taken in the assembly it will likely be fine. Was any balancing done by the shop and if so, what did they do?
In this case, the block is already together, and the HB is factory balanced, so all you can really do is the flywheel/clutch. Let's be real here. This isn't an F1 motor spinning at 15000 rpm. This is going to spin at 3000 rpm once in awhile. If care has been taken in the assembly it will likely be fine. Was any balancing done by the shop and if so, what did they do?
- Thread starter
- #317
The pistons and rods were all balanced with each other, IIRC. I do know that the crankshaft also had a slight bit of material taken off of the counterweights when they worked on it.
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- 11,207
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Piston slap is caused by loose piston fit in the bore. No real relationship to balancing the rotating parts.
- Thread starter
- #319
Sorry for the late reply on this question, but yes, everything was fine. The seal fit in perfectly and no issues whatsoever.
- Thread starter
- #320
So I've got a part quandary that I never thought I'd have.
I have 2 HG's im able to use. The correct one (11115-61030) doesn't seem to have te correct cut outs for the water jacket holes in the block.
The incorrect one has three out of the 4 water jacket cutouts correct but like the later one closes off the one toward the front of the block on the DS.
Below, early 2F for FJ60 (top) and correct for my build HG on the bottom....
Perplexed by this since it just does not make sense to make a HG and close off a water jacket hole.
What says the Greek chorus?
Notice they are correctly oriented as if you were looking down on the top of the block from the DS.
Top one only has three out of 4 cut outs for water jacket at all 4 corners.
Bottom one only has 2 out of 4 with one being way too small for cutout on the block.
Disturbing.
I have 2 HG's im able to use. The correct one (11115-61030) doesn't seem to have te correct cut outs for the water jacket holes in the block.
The incorrect one has three out of the 4 water jacket cutouts correct but like the later one closes off the one toward the front of the block on the DS.
Below, early 2F for FJ60 (top) and correct for my build HG on the bottom....
Perplexed by this since it just does not make sense to make a HG and close off a water jacket hole.
What says the Greek chorus?
Notice they are correctly oriented as if you were looking down on the top of the block from the DS.
Top one only has three out of 4 cut outs for water jacket at all 4 corners.
Bottom one only has 2 out of 4 with one being way too small for cutout on the block.
Disturbing.
