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I will need a few parts for my 2F re-build, Once I crack her open and clean her up, I'll get a list to ya.
J
J
Builds What's a Parts Guy to Do?? (1 Viewer)
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Cruiserdrew
On the way there
So in his younger days, Onur was a bit ... impulsive. I am trying to square my memory of him throwing his tools over the cliff in frustration at the top of Hurrah Pass, and the painstaking rebuild of this 2F. I can't wait to see it come to fruition. I'll bet too, that a properly rebuilt and fresh 2F likely has decent grunt.
More pictures of the machine work and block needed in this thread. Just sayin'
More pictures of the machine work and block needed in this thread. Just sayin'
- Thread starter
- #263
Cleaned and painted the DS of the block today. 
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- Thread starter
- #264
The machine shop was nice enough to dremel in the specs for the lower end.
- Thread starter
- #265
Nice. Hurrah Pass in 2009 was pretty classic. I was pretty pissed when I lost that shaft.
I'm turning 40 this year so I guess some of my BS of youth might have abated a bit Andy.
That said, I am Mediterranean... Hot blood, hot temper.
Miss Ya Andy.
You're gonna be fine Onur.
Being you are taking your time and spending the allotted work time usually doing one thing, it will help you do it right.
When i did my 60 it took 4 years. But i usually put something together when i got the part or finished refinishing it. It made me take my time and do it right. Thankfully i put the new rebuilt 2F in Jim's hands. But even after dropping it in, i took my time with all the cooling, fueling, vacuum and electrical lifelines to it.
And i have to say it paid off.
Being you are taking your time and spending the allotted work time usually doing one thing, it will help you do it right.
When i did my 60 it took 4 years. But i usually put something together when i got the part or finished refinishing it. It made me take my time and do it right. Thankfully i put the new rebuilt 2F in Jim's hands. But even after dropping it in, i took my time with all the cooling, fueling, vacuum and electrical lifelines to it.
And i have to say it paid off.
Yep,
One place to triple (or quadruple) check when putting it back together is ensuring the #1 piston is at TDC compression (vs exhaust) when installing the distributor. There won't be the luxury of just noting loose valve lash on the #1 push rods, since the rocker assembly will be all out of calibration with the new rebuilt head. It's kind of easy, once you think it through, and logic will get you to the right place, but it kind of wants to trick you into installing the dissy 180º out. If it is, the rotor won't be pointed quite right, but will be close enough to make you scratch your head and wonder. Know that the rotor points directly at spark plug #4 when fully installed correctly. A "measuring stick" can also be helpful in verifying the height of the #1 push rods (low) when rotating the engine around trying to find TDCC.
After installing the distributor and initially adjusting the valves, it can be self-assuring to rotate the engine around by hand several times to make sure that what you are seeing the rockers and distributor signal generator do makes sense. Pay particular attention to diagram 8-91 in the engine manual.
Piece of Cake.
One place to triple (or quadruple) check when putting it back together is ensuring the #1 piston is at TDC compression (vs exhaust) when installing the distributor. There won't be the luxury of just noting loose valve lash on the #1 push rods, since the rocker assembly will be all out of calibration with the new rebuilt head. It's kind of easy, once you think it through, and logic will get you to the right place, but it kind of wants to trick you into installing the dissy 180º out. If it is, the rotor won't be pointed quite right, but will be close enough to make you scratch your head and wonder. Know that the rotor points directly at spark plug #4 when fully installed correctly. A "measuring stick" can also be helpful in verifying the height of the #1 push rods (low) when rotating the engine around trying to find TDCC.
After installing the distributor and initially adjusting the valves, it can be self-assuring to rotate the engine around by hand several times to make sure that what you are seeing the rockers and distributor signal generator do makes sense. Pay particular attention to diagram 8-91 in the engine manual.
Piece of Cake.
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- Thread starter
- #268
Since Andy wanted some specifics of the machining:
- Thread starter
- #269
Notice the oiler hole pointed towards where the cam gear and timing gear mesh:
- Thread starter
- #270
Motor mount bracket to head bolts are discontinued so care was taken to clean and put thread locker on each bolt.
Bolts for smog pump bracket to block are odd ones: M10x1.50
Bolts for smog pump bracket to block are odd ones: M10x1.50
- Thread starter
- #271
New drain cock for the block. Pre coated from the factory.
And you were careful to avoid setting the oiler too deep? If too deep the timing plate will be pushed away from the block leading to an aggravating oil leak.
- Thread starter
- #273
Feel free to make your "break in " run to S.W. Georgia. I'll buy the beer?
Excellent. Unfortunately I learned this from experience, and still living with it.
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Are you keeping smog equipment?
- Thread starter
- #277
Negative
wow, pretty. Never seen so clean a 2F. Keep going
dougbert
dougbert
A properly balanced 2F is a wonderful thing... You won't believe how easy and smooth it rev's. You gonna balance the Flywheel/Pressure plate/Disc ?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
This is looking great. Nice to have a chance to renew everything all at once.
A road trip at least as far is Moab is mandatory. I'll meet you there with my FJ62, which will look like the twin of your truck. Then we can have a drag race.
A road trip at least as far is Moab is mandatory. I'll meet you there with my FJ62, which will look like the twin of your truck. Then we can have a drag race.
