nelsonjm624
1973 FJ40, 2F, 3 Spd, Wilwood f/r, 31x10.5R15
Started wire wheeling the mid bed. Pulled the seats almost done with it then on to the rear bed and wheel wells.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (50 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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I received my new fuel pump and some other parts from South Atlanta Toyota. Thanks, Sam. I also picked up a stock roll bar I'm going to put in my 71, thanks warpdriv. I guess it's time to get rid of the old Smittybilt.
...via IH8MUD app
...via IH8MUD app
I am finally back on the road with no lingering issues. I pulled out some old emissions stuff and capped off the gas tank vent lines and my fuel smell completely went away. I installed new spark plugs and and its now running great. It's been 3.5 long years but this summer I will finally get to put some miles on her.
The front seats are made by a Rugged Ridge. The rear seat is a Bestop TrailMax II. I like the front seats however they only fold forward with a knob, so getting in the back is a real pain. I got them free on Craigslist otherwise I would have bought the ProCar seats that IPOR sells.
Thanks
Some body work...
I finished the POR 15 on the underside of the 40. Changed the differential fluids and
ordered a few parts to keep making some progress. Took the kids for a ride to soccer twice in it also.
ordered a few parts to keep making some progress. Took the kids for a ride to soccer twice in it also.
Using the info on a thread at this site, I moved both the passenger's and driver's seat back. Man what a difference it makes regarding the driver's seat. Also completed my air conditioning installation. Shop can't charge my system until tomorrow. I am curious to see how well it does.
Regarding the passenger seat, I ground off the rivets, then positioned the seat as far back as I could. The fuel tank vent inhibits moving it back as far as I could the driver's seat. Then I used some locking pliers to hold the seat rails to the bottom rails. Then took everything back out and drilled holes. Then I bolted the rails together, bolt heads on the bottom. After I was sure of the fit, I welded the bolt heads to the rails, so they were now studs. Removed the seat from the bottom rails. Installed bottom rails, then bolted the seat in place, screwing the nuts down on the 'studs'. Gives the wife at least a couple more inches of leg room, which is gonna be needed with the A/C unit now under the dash.
Took a couple of pics. Phone camera didn't do so good, but you can get the idea how I did the brackets for the drivers side. Since I will never move the seat forward, I welded the extension to the left bracket. Thought it made it look cleaner. And I tacked the nut underneath both the left and right metal pieces I made.
Regarding the passenger seat, I ground off the rivets, then positioned the seat as far back as I could. The fuel tank vent inhibits moving it back as far as I could the driver's seat. Then I used some locking pliers to hold the seat rails to the bottom rails. Then took everything back out and drilled holes. Then I bolted the rails together, bolt heads on the bottom. After I was sure of the fit, I welded the bolt heads to the rails, so they were now studs. Removed the seat from the bottom rails. Installed bottom rails, then bolted the seat in place, screwing the nuts down on the 'studs'. Gives the wife at least a couple more inches of leg room, which is gonna be needed with the A/C unit now under the dash.
Took a couple of pics. Phone camera didn't do so good, but you can get the idea how I did the brackets for the drivers side. Since I will never move the seat forward, I welded the extension to the left bracket. Thought it made it look cleaner. And I tacked the nut underneath both the left and right metal pieces I made.
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GA Architect
SILVER Star
Here are some before and after photos. Can you tell what was done?
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After:
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Niceee
Did some cleaning to the 1f and put the tires from the 2f
I ordered parts: My clutch slave cyl iss leaking. After doing some research, I learned that it would be smart to replace the slave and the master cyls at the same time. I also learned that next to OEM or AISIN, Beck Arnley is the brand to buy. The original Toyota part numbers for my '73 are 61470-3002 for the slave and 61410-30041 for the master. I found out quickly that I couldn't afford OEM or AISIN parts at this time and converting to the newer (cheaper) system was still a bit out of my price range. The hunt was on for the best deal on Beck Arnley products. Surprisingly, the best price I found was on Amazon! The slave (part# 072-4773) and master (part# 072-4757) ended up costing $85 shipped.
Doing the same right now with my '78...Aisin slave at cruisercorps.com only $26.48 + 9.63 s&h= $36.11: http://www.cruisercorps.com/aisin-clutch-release-slave-cylinder-08-74-07-80.html . Aisin Clutch Master Cylinder at fcpimport.com only $50.95 + 8.75 s&h= $59.70: http://www.fcpimport.com/products/toyota-clutch-master-cylinder-land-cruiser-31410-60041
Total of $95.81, just $10 more for Aisin. Prices may be different for your early model, though. Hope all goes well for ya, enjoy your wrenching
Skip
Yeah, it's because you have a '78. 1970 - 1974 is a lot more expensive. Pre-'70 is even more expensive if you can find it. I priced out going with the new style system by converting everything, but this was still a better deal. I would have been into it $125-ish but I will probably do that next time.
Painted seat frames and got seats re-upholstered
Front parking lights---and tires--and winch
If you don't mind me asking, how much did that head set you back? I recently picked up a used head for my F engine for $175. It's down at the machine shop being checked out.
Don
Pulled the hard top.
