What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (56 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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Saddletramp
GOLD Star
Watched her get sold on the auction block
92k? That must be some kind of record.....nice
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
'79 or later?
Wow nice!!!!
It's a 84 2f going in my 65 40
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2011
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Interior trim pieces pieces are painted along with the seat frames and backs. Seats are now ready for the upholstery shop. I should really get started on the wiring...good times ahead I'm sure. kyle-landcruiser.blogspot.com
Finally installed the LED lights I bought from PKP80 when he brought some in on his container from China. They've been sitting in my garage for almost a year.....
Flood for the driver side and Spot for the passenger side (Australian style).
These are 7 inches long at 2100 lumen each.
Position 1 on the switch
Position 2 on the switch
Head lights only
Head lights and LED's
LED's only
Flood for the driver side and Spot for the passenger side (Australian style).
These are 7 inches long at 2100 lumen each.
Position 1 on the switch
Position 2 on the switch
Head lights only
Head lights and LED's
LED's only
Last edited:
Cut out remnants of rear cross member and PO's "fix". Installed new steel.
Fabbed a simple bracket to mount a combo overflow/washer bottle, again to fix PO "fix"
Tapped and plugged oil galley, was just starting to weep a bit
Relocated rear shock mounts to back of crossmember (for flipped rear springs)
Ran separate grounds for each headlight directly to battery negative terminal (made a nice difference in brightness)
New bulbs for instrument cluster (1816)
Opened vacuum shift unit for hi/lo range to reconnect cable
Installed front transition (74) driveshaft. 4 speed length, 3 speed bolt pattern (after recent H41 install)
Fabbed a simple bracket to mount a combo overflow/washer bottle, again to fix PO "fix"
Tapped and plugged oil galley, was just starting to weep a bit
Relocated rear shock mounts to back of crossmember (for flipped rear springs)
Ran separate grounds for each headlight directly to battery negative terminal (made a nice difference in brightness)
New bulbs for instrument cluster (1816)
Opened vacuum shift unit for hi/lo range to reconnect cable
Installed front transition (74) driveshaft. 4 speed length, 3 speed bolt pattern (after recent H41 install)
Was the 92k the final bid??! Wow!!!
Saddletramp
GOLD Star
I snapped the picture while watching the streaming video, you see the hammer falling and here they are writing down the buyers number in the lower right corner. $92,500.
Saddletramp
GOLD Star
Final number from the auction site including the buyers percentage. http://www.rmauctions.com/lots/lot.cfm?lot_id=1063840
Has to be a near record for a 40 series.
Has to be a near record for a 40 series.
Well done, I'm restoring a 77 and hope to just get just the money I invested in it to fund another build.
Saddletramp
GOLD Star
I've been following your thread, excellent work
Unbolted the flywheel only to find the collector for the SOR two piece headers prevents me from removing it.
Only options are to pull the oil pan it cutting the exhaust to get it out.
Pulling the pan will be the less expensive option.
Cutting the exhaust will be the faster option, but will basically commit me to replacing the exhaust (which is on the list to be done at some point)
Only options are to pull the oil pan it cutting the exhaust to get it out.
Pulling the pan will be the less expensive option.
Cutting the exhaust will be the faster option, but will basically commit me to replacing the exhaust (which is on the list to be done at some point)
Am I missing something that you can't remove the bell housing? Or just unbolt the collector or the header from the cylinder head?
The flywheel is blocking access to the upper bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine block.
The collector is welded to the two header pieces. I would have to remove the headers at the head all the way back to the muffler. I'm not sure right now that I want to pull the intake manifold and headers.
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Biscuit said:
If the pan is not leaking, I would STRONGLY recommend avoiding that route. Having patched a failing exhaust pipe weld with a tin can and a couple of hose clamps before
, I think I would prefer that as an option to pulling a dry oil pan.Mark
Last edited:
What about cutting the exhaust and then getting one of those slip over exhaust adapters?
