What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (82 Viewers)

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Just finish 2nd coat if por-15 on the battery tray but the interesting part was the electrolysis to remove the rust as per Coolerman. Left it in the solution for 36 hrs, soap rinse and wire brush, hairdryer dry then por-15.
Real Purdy!
 
Ordered parts for hardtop and drove it out and then back into the garage. Maybe put some real miles on it tomorrow. :)
 
Thanks Seth! I appreciate the comments! I've been inspired by a lot of folks here and my hat is off to them! My bride said I'm obsessed with this "hobby" but I find it to be the best form of therapy! It's cheaper than a doctor! :lol:

Nice slider you fabbed! Your welds are sick and the design is just as sweet! Simple and stout!
 
Roundeyes

Put in the Roundeyes!
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Not today but within the past week...

Removed the rusted to he!! rear gussetts (with the body on), wire wheeled, sanded, tsp'd the rear half of the frame. Then ospho coated it for POR15 prep. Paint should be here on Monday...pics to follow.
 
Blew differential oil out the rear diff vent for a 6 hour round trip........Had just filled it to the appropriate level the day before....Still confused why it blows out at highway speed.......
 
Blew differential oil out the rear diff vent for a 6 hour round trip........Had just filled it to the appropriate level the day before....Still confused why it blows out at highway speed.......

let me know if you figure out why - i have the same problem - i first cleaned up the axle breathers - which helped a lot...but still have some leakage...
 
I spun my #3 rod bearing..... need to pull my motor and have the crank turned...... not happy at all but, at least I can do everything myself:frown:
 
Installed a new oem main seal, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch, and pressure plate, on my friend's fj40. Clutch and pressure plate looked good, but the main seal NON-OEM was leaking, and the throw out bearing was failing. Go figure, the throw out bearing had MEX stamped on it's side. Got the new stuff from CDAN, and they were all the right parts.:clap:

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Assembled and installed some homebrew lift springs in the back of my 40. Also replaced a broken exhaust hanger. Getting ready for some wheeling.
 
I finally found a front axle. I wanted a Dana 60 but to expensive so I scored a massive Dana 70 for $150.00. The tierod is 1-1/2 inches in diameter :eek:.
 
Hmm, let's see...

Tue - I replaced my sheared t-case front output shaft and a torn input seal to my ToyBox.

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Wed - I replaced a sheared short side inner axle and a trashed front diff/ARB (I changed my oil while I waited for my new diff/ARB to arrived :D).

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I did a pretty good job of wiping it dry, eh?:rolleyes:
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Thur - I removed a sheared rear pinion on Hells Revenge.

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Fri - I swapped my rear ARB in a diff I robbed from Jeremiah Proffit (5 1/2 hr round trip from Slickrock Campground, just in time to accept the CM09 8-Ball Award. :D)



Sat - I didn't break anything. :grinpimp::grinpimp:

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Quadrajet gone

pulled the old and dirty Quadrajet off the 327 and am waiting on my adapter for my new 1406 Edelbrock 600cfm..may put it on, see how she runs then pull the whole setup to clean and swap transmission and transfer case. 700r4 is being built now, and waiting on my new 4spd transfer case to arrive to order my AA adapter...$$$$$$
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thats what 20 years in the windy, Las Vegas desert looks like collected on a SBC.....woke this thing from the dead last summer!
 
Hi All:

Well, have the front axle apart on my FJ40 to replace a broken pinion shaft. While disassembling the axle I discovered that the bearings that ride on the spindle were not in good shape (water/mud contamination) so I ordered replacements from Georg @ Valley Hybrids (aka "OrangeFJ45.")

This weekend while waiting on the new bearings, I swapped the Aussie Locker from the damaged third member into the replacement.

I also decided to do a couple of mods to the front drive shaft. I got both of these ideas from the Mark Whatley "Tech Exchange" column in the July/August 2006 issue of Toyota Trails.

The first mod is to remove the spline dust cover and the plug in the yoke at t-case end of the drive shaft. This is to allow a bit more spline travel.

The second mod is to clearance the yoke on the differential end of the 'shaft to allow for more deflection during suspension movement. See the attached photo for the difference between a stock drive shaft yoke (on the left) and the modified yoke (on the right.) Not a big deal to do - just took a few minutes with the 4.5 inch grinder.

Regards,

Alan
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Started to weld up my new homemade floor pan and will then move on to new wheel wells & fenders. I'll finally be able to ride around without fear of falling through the floor!
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I just replaced the oil of my front diffential, trans, transfer case & re-greased all the fittings.
 

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