What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (35 Viewers)

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What I've managed to do to my LandCruiser this last week, apparently, is burn several valves, at least on cylinders 2 and 3. On feeling the miss, I changed plugs... if only it had been that simple. It was running perfectly until it didn't. I don't know what I have done to cause this, I checked the valve lash as part of my troubleshooting and it only required 3 small adjustments on random valves. Compression on 2 and 3 is non-existent, peaks at about 30. 4 went to about 60 and I stopped checking after that, the head is going to have to be pulled. Now, 3 years ago and around 23,000 miles ago I put all new "Sealed Power" valves, V2257 for Exhaust and V2258 for Intake: are these things garbage? I hadn't read anything negative about them. Regardless, I will be putting back in Toyota valves, but here is a bit of a question:
Intake: Microfiche says 13711-60021, which is still available, but the picture on ToyotaPartsDeal shows a single groove keeper... Just the wrong picture right?
Exhaust: Microfiche says 13715-61010 - NLA. BUT 13715-61030 is available, and even though ToyotaPartsDeal says it is good for '73-'87, it still says "This part does not fit your 1978"? What's the deal there, is this a good part number for a '78 2F Exhaust Valve?
Anyway, if I do all Toyota valves, stem seals, and head gasket, it is going to be over $800... but I guess that is the price if I don't want to be doing this again in 3 more years. Why in the heck is that head gasket over $200?!?!?! Thank ya'll for reading and any info. Have a great day!
 
Burning a valve happens over time. It's not something that happens instantly. Do a dry and wet compression test to help id the problem. Maybe a leak down test. Low compression among adjacent cylinders could be a head gasket. You would need deeper testing for good diagnosis.
 
IMHO most burnt valves are from people setting the lash to tight - better to hear them than to burn them. Do you have hardened seats for unleaded gas? There could be lots of choices for valves, do the guides too. I'd spend the time to find a good shop that can do the work properly - better to spend more up front than to redo a bargain job again soon.
 
GreaseMonkey said:
What I've managed to do to my LandCruiser this last week, apparently, is burn several valves, at least on cylinders 2 and 3. On feeling the miss, I changed plugs... if only it had been that simple. It was running perfectly until it didn't. I don't know what I have done to cause this, I checked the valve lash as part of my troubleshooting and it only required 3 small adjustments on random valves. Compression on 2 and 3 is non-existent, peaks at about 30. 4 went to about 60 and I stopped checking after that, the head is going to have to be pulled. Now, 3 years ago and around 23,000 miles ago I put all new "Sealed Power" valves, V2257 for Exhaust and V2258 for Intake: are these things garbage? I hadn't read anything negative about them. Regardless, I will be putting back in Toyota valves, but here is a bit of a question:
Intake: Microfiche says 13711-60021, which is still available, but the picture on ToyotaPartsDeal shows a single groove keeper... Just the wrong picture right?
Exhaust: Microfiche says 13715-61010 - NLA. BUT 13715-61030 is available, and even though ToyotaPartsDeal says it is good for '73-'87, it still says "This part does not fit your 1978"? What's the deal there, is this a good part number for a '78 2F Exhaust Valve?
Anyway, if I do all Toyota valves, stem seals, and head gasket, it is going to be over $800... but I guess that is the price if I don't want to be doing this again in 3 more years. Why in the heck is that head gasket over $200?!?!?! Thank ya'll for reading and any info. Have a great day!
Click to expand...
The challenges that we face! Am lucky to have a young man that comes to my house to work on my FJ40 and a 75 2002 BMW
 
mef0629 said:
What year is that old girl? The patina is gorgeous! Are those the real hubcaps? I love them.
Click to expand...
It is a 1965 (brass tag 66'). Lots of hours scrubbing the patina back to life. Did a frame/chassis restoration with newer gearing and FJ-60 brakes. We set the patina body back on.
The hubcaps are reproduction stainless caps
 
pb4ugo said:
Burning a valve happens over time. It's not something that happens instantly. Do a dry and wet compression test to help id the problem. Maybe a leak down test. Low compression among adjacent cylinders could be a head gasket. You would need deeper testing for good diagnosis.
Click to expand...
Oh man, yeah hopefully, I didn't see oil/water mix so I ruled that out, but if it was just between the cylinders. Man that would be nice! And also maybe why the Toyota gasket costs $200? Going to order Toyota head gasket and valve stem seals (those leak too, even though they were replaced when I did the valves) tomorrow when the local parts department opens. **Edit: CityRacer had the OEM gasket for $99, SCORE! Ordered.**
charliemeyer007 said:
IMHO most burnt valves are from people setting the lash to tight - better to hear them than to burn them. Do you have hardened seats for unleaded gas? There could be lots of choices for valves, do the guides too. I'd spend the time to find a good shop that can do the work properly - better to spend more up front than to redo a bargain job again soon.
Click to expand...
I would think yes to hardened seats, this head came with the truck in '78 and it has the "Unleaded Fuel Only" stickers in the cab and next to the fuel fill. This next weekend will be 4 days due to the Thanksgiving, so I will pull the head this next weekend and then I will have good eyes on everything and see what is going on. And pictures of course :). On a positive note this will be a good opportunity to clean everything up and put that one pesky rubber bushing on the carb linkage; maybe the secondary will finally open!
 
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Baby got new shoes!

IMG_2304.jpeg
 
flee said:
'63 everything but the engine, wheels...!
Click to expand...
Were the side steps like that in 63? I have a 69 that has (had, it’s long gone) the inset Naugahyde stuff.

Also, Kenda Klever RT 33x9.5x15? I’ve had those on my 60 for a few months now and love them.
 
CruiserTrash said:
Were the side steps like that in 63? I have a 69 that has (had, it’s long gone) the inset Naugahyde stuff.

Also, Kenda Klever RT 33x9.5x15? I’ve had those on my 60 for a few months now and love them.
Click to expand...
Good eye, those are aftermarket diamond plate steps. Yes on the K-K 33x9.50-15 on stock steelies. I now have 4 nice 15x8 alloys for sale! :cool:
 
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Got the heater installed and the heat working this past weekend. It was actually toasty on my way into work this morning. Need to fix the heat pull cable. The housing separated from the pull lever so it opens the valve fine, when I push in the lever to close the valve, the cable housing moves vs the actual cable so the valve doesn't close. Tried to epoxy the housing to the pull fitting but it came undone while I was playing with it once all hooked up.
Was thinking of bending up a piece of metal and wrapping where the cable housing attaches to the pull lever, screwing the metal together to clamp the two pieces together to hopefully stop the housing from moving.
Either that or uncurl the end of the cable, pull off the cable housing and install a new housing. Thinking that may work better, there seems to be a lot of friction inside the cable housing.
 
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