What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (43 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Along with your write up. Would you mind laying a straight edge on the lower outer part of the door and shoot some pics or post some measurements? Curious how much oil can effect there is on the door or should it be dead flat?

Early in my restoration I outsourced the door body work and the dude royally F’ed it up. I’m considering cutting his patches off and starting over but I’m struggling to find a reference of what it should be.

This is how he gave it back to me. Look at that ridge on the patch vs the door.

View attachment 3697823

I spent an hour or so heat shrinking and hammer dolly working to get it leveled a bit. Then I got angry and walked away. The problem is that it’s oil canned somewhat because his patch was flat and the door material was oil canned onto that flat patch so I tried to work the same curvature as the door material but I don’t know if that curvature should be there?

View attachment 3697827Still needs a ton of work. Should I stop and re/patch or keep working it to a smooth oil canned shape?

Thanks a ton.

Public Service Announcement: do your own work. Don’t do what I did thinking I could outsource and get a good result.
Mine 1st door that I have patched did the same thing. I tried portapowering it back up and heating an cooling. Finally after I got it to within a 1/16", I filled it with filler to get it flat.
 
Welded on my relocated drivers-side shock tower. Previously bolting it kept coming loose. New Bilsteins. Worked on replacing my tie rod ends. Had to cut 4.5" inches out of the po tierod to put the steering stabilzer end back on that was missing.

74508683173__FB2A0BE0-13FE-4114-A247-C1C524160603.JPG


IMG_0502.JPG
 
I have a bad leak coming from the rear output seal of the pto on my ‘75 to the point I have to keep a pan below the pto case drain bolt and I’m having to top off my transfer case with gear oil often. I think that the pto case is Toyota part but my winch is a Ramsey. I have searched online but can’t find a source for a new seal. Does anyone know of a source for the seal or if this is indeed an oem Toyota pto case. Appreciate any advice.
View attachment 3699991
This thread PTO Winch Information - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pto-winch-information.608355/ will give you all of the info you need
 
Fixed the trailer lights so I now have blinkers and runners and learned splicers dont work on 45 year old Toyota wiring lol. damn separate brake lights had me befuddled. Will be searching for a 6 pin male I guess (to match what was on there) but sounds like its more complicated than that.

Been playing around with paracord teaching the boys some knots and decided to get crafty on the steering wheel. I think I like it, looking forward to some new callouses.

IMG_0059.jpeg
IMG_0062.jpeg

IMG_0061.jpeg
 
Fixed the trailer lights so I now have blinkers and runners and learned splicers dont work on 45 year old Toyota wiring lol. damn separate brake lights had me befuddled. Will be searching for a 6 pin male I guess (to match what was on there) but sounds like its more complicated than that.

Been playing around with paracord teaching the boys some knots and decided to get crafty on the steering wheel. I think I like it, looking forward to some new callouses.

View attachment 3700325View attachment 3700326
View attachment 3700348
What's the pocket knife? Looks like a good slim, small-ish size. I like that for having in my pocket. The big ones can stay in the truck or the camping bin.

(The 40 looks great too)
 
^^ Knife is a Petrified Fish. Good and cheap bowie blade (my fav) D2 tough.

 
Nope. Look them up on bilsteins site. We went through this before if you search the forums.
Thanks! I’ll take a look. I looked up images yesterday and it was turned the other way. In the google search I just put shocks on fj40 but pretty sure I seen some bilstein shocks on the images turned the opposite way.
 
Thanks! I did notice that and was going to post something about it but you beat me to it. When I looked again last night I’ve seen several turn it one way and others the opposite way. However it does make sense that the label being upright. I just installed the drivers front Saturday night and the rears over a month ago. Nothing like doing something twice.
 
While we are out in Orange County visiting our daughter and SIL, I made a pilgrimage north to check-in with Mark A. of Mark's Off-Road (@65swb45 ). We had a good visit and I had the pleasure in riding along in his blue 45 series truck. I have to admit that I was kind of like the proverbial kid in a candy store geeking out over all of the Land Cruiser parts in his shop. :)
Just in case anyone is confused, I'm the short ugly one.
IMG_1685.JPEG
 
Been practicing with the Mig after finally getting it set up…….. thinking I’m all ready for some ‘minor’ body repair to fill in some small rust holes
IMG_1842.jpeg

Then this…….

IMG_1843.jpeg


IMG_0996.gif
 
Keep at it. You will get the hang of it. What size wire? On the thin stuff, I found that it really helped to use the smaller wire and a copper backing plate. Go slow and don't build up too much heat to avoid the dreaded warpage. I also found that there was a huge difference between practicing on the workbench and going live on the vehicle. :)
 
Got it to run! Feels like a huge weight off my shoulders. Once I figured out the fuel delivery/pressure problem I was having it fired right up. That was after about 3 days of me questioning why I took this on. Next job is to order some driveshafts and get it on the road.
2 engine.jpg

1 engine 5.3L.jpg

3 DD.jpg

4 DD.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom