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I disregard the label altogether (though they ended up right side up on mine). I don’t want water, snow, mud, grit sitting on top of the shock body and getting crammed in the rod seal, so I have the rod down thinking they’ll drain that stuff better. I should note, I don’t run shock boots because I don’t want the aforementioned junk stuck in there.Thanks! I did notice that and was going to post something about it but you beat me to it. When I looked again last night I’ve seen several turn it one way and others the opposite way. However it does make sense that the label being upright. I just installed the drivers front Saturday night and the rears over a month ago. Nothing like doing something twice.
Did you add the gas assist shock to your tire carrier? Or was it on there originally? I know this is something that is being offered currently.
Dave is including them now, standard. Nice feature!Did you add the gas assist shock to your tire carrier? Or was it on there originally? I know this is something that is being offered currently.
That’s on my list for mine.
Welded on my relocated drivers-side shock tower. Previously bolting it kept coming loose. New Bilsteins. Worked on replacing my tie rod ends. Had to cut 4.5" inches out of the po tierod to put the steering stabilzer end back on that was missing.
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FYI you have shock turned the wrong way.
I didn’t realize yours was that new. I was thinking it had one for quite some time.Dave is including them now, standard. Nice feature!
Thanks for lunch Mark.While we are out in Orange County visiting our daughter and SIL, I made a pilgrimage north to check-in with Mark A. of Mark's Off-Road (@65swb45 ). We had a good visit and I had the pleasure in riding along in his blue 45 series truck. I have to admit that I was kind of like the proverbial kid in a candy store geeking out over all of the Land Cruiser parts in his shop.
Just in case anyone is confused, I'm the short ugly one.
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Check out the cut and butt system on youtube to cut a patch for that hood and weld it in. If you try to weld those thin rust holes shut you will just keep blowing the holes bigger. The backing plate works great as mentioned for bigger gaps and holes in good thick metal.Keep at it. You will get the hang of it. What size wire? On the thin stuff, I found that it really helped to use the smaller wire and a copper backing plate. Go slow and don't build up too much heat to avoid the dreaded warpage. I also found that there was a huge difference between practicing on the workbench and going live on the vehicle.![]()
When I dropped the 5.3 in place of the 350, I had my wife, son and father in law in the garage for the first turn of the key. The starter cranked but nothing else happened. My wife looked at me like I was an idiot for wasting my time and said something like “that’s anticlimactic.” I turned and beamed- I was just happy something happened with the turn of the key!!!Got it to run! Feels like a huge weight off my shoulders. Once I figured out the fuel delivery/pressure problem I was having it fired right up. That was after about 3 days of me questioning why I took this on. Next job is to order some driveshafts and get it on the road.
More pics please! Also, what size tires on the red 40, same on the red soft top, is that a 43?
You know that old saying: be careful what you wish for!Assembled this kids' "Market Place" today for our daughter's kindergarten classroom. I would rather do a knuckle job on the most ill-kept 40 than put together one of these ever again.
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33x10.50-15 km2 on the 40 and TAKO2 on the 43.More pics please! Also, what size tires on the red 40, same on the red soft top, is that a 43?
Is that in Colorado?
Here are a few pics that I borrowed:In a very odd reminder of what I have accomplished and the synchronicity of an endeavor of the nature of restoring a historical automobile...
Today I "re-fixed" my tailgate lock. I also received the following "On This Day" reminder.
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So, exactly one year ago today, I fixed this lock the first time.
On a side note. Does anyone have a pic of the "correct" placement of the lock retainer clip? In my case turning the key too far causes the lock arm to grab the spring retainer clip and (if I keep twisting) unseats the clip and causes the lock to fall out. If I am careful it works, though I cannot remove the key unless the lock is locked.
I don't have a "before" pic of the working lock.
Thanks! That confirms for me that the spring clip I have is too big for the circumference of the circle. Can you remove your key when it's unlocked?Here are a few pics that I borrowed:
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