That's what I would do. That box is just a mechanical "timer" for emissions or other service, is it not? Don't have one on my 12/79 build.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
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That's what I would do. That box is just a mechanical "timer" for emissions or other service, is it not? Don't have one on my 12/79 build.
So help me clarify something…does this speedometer thing help to display something? I had it in my ‘74 and my ‘75
I don’t know what it is used for ? It’s above my pay grade so to speak
EDIT: SO THEY CALL IT an Interval Maintenance Detector??? Used from 1974-1977
I don’t know what it is used for ? It’s above my pay grade so to speak
EDIT: SO THEY CALL IT an Interval Maintenance Detector??? Used from 1974-1977
I think its a timer connected to your EGR light. There's an odometer in it, once it hits a certain mileage it turns on the EGR light. It lets you know you need a wallet adjustment from the dealer. You can also see if it has the same mileage as your cluster.
@pb4ugo wow…that’s a great clue… once it cools off out side from what seems like 100, I’m going to pull it and see
Thank you
Thank you
@Blue77FJ40 …more than inspirational…thank you this is what I am going to need to do if I keep that EGR monitor. Great detail in your photos
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
Today, drag link adjustment and now my steering wheel is (mostly) correct when driving straight. (Added bonus, the turn signals cancel at the right time after a turn!) 6 days to my 1 year anniversary with my '40 and this great community.
I have an electrical issue, new battery, new alternator, new starter. If it sits for more than 3 days it won't start. Once you jump it, it fires right up. I found an electrical shop in Houston, we shall see if they can chase that gremlin down!
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
Make sure your voltage regulator is working properly. Mine wasn’t even hooked up when I bought mine!!
I'm
Trick is to not let it sit that long lol. I'd be driving that beauty every day haha
@mef0629 I'd disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Not knowing where that juice is going wouldn't let me sleep at night. A long time ago, I'd use a quick disconnect knife-switch on the negative terminal...
I had a cowl seam water-short in the my stereo, and the always-on source of power energized the ignition-on side of the radio, walked by the truck, heard music.
I had a cowl seam water-short in the my stereo, and the always-on source of power energized the ignition-on side of the radio, walked by the truck, heard music.
Door repair compete. Ran out of reducer so I can’t paint until this weekend.
I will do a write up soon. I used topnault repair panels, the reason for not using CCOT this time is that the rust went up too high on the inner panels of both front doors. Topnault panels go half way up the door!
In final 2k sandable primer ready to be sanded and sprayed.
I drenched the inside bottom of the doors with SPI epoxy primer, when I’m done I will spray galvanizing spray from the welding shop and clear over that.
Yesterday I welded the last panel, body filled both doors, epoxy primed all in 12 hours on a dirt floor. I’m tired.
Now I need to find all of the replacement components for the doors.
I will do a write up soon. I used topnault repair panels, the reason for not using CCOT this time is that the rust went up too high on the inner panels of both front doors. Topnault panels go half way up the door!
In final 2k sandable primer ready to be sanded and sprayed.
I drenched the inside bottom of the doors with SPI epoxy primer, when I’m done I will spray galvanizing spray from the welding shop and clear over that.
Yesterday I welded the last panel, body filled both doors, epoxy primed all in 12 hours on a dirt floor. I’m tired.
Now I need to find all of the replacement components for the doors.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
@mef0629
Quick tip for electrical diagnosis....
Charging System -
1. Idle truck, put multimeter on battery to see battery voltage while idling. You want 12.5+
2. Raise idle to 2000-2500 then check multimeter, you want to see over 13.2-13.5 ideally if system is charging. If not, you have a voltage regulator/alternator/battery/wiring issue.
Parasitic draw -
1. Put a multimeter probe between negative post and negative battery cable (which means disconnect ground cable from battery).
2. Put multimeter on DC Amps, mA. Depending on multimeter you'll want 20-100mA
3. Turn key off, turn accessories off (as if you were going to bed for example).
4. Read multimeter. If you have more than say 20-50mA on screen, go into cab and remove one fuse at a time. When/if mA drops or essentially zeros out, you've found your circuit.
5. Read factory wiring diagram for that circuit and look at each assembly and wiring harness for flaws. If nothing visible, start disconnecting items such as bulbs, computers, etc until draw disappears.
Quick tip for electrical diagnosis....
Charging System -
1. Idle truck, put multimeter on battery to see battery voltage while idling. You want 12.5+
2. Raise idle to 2000-2500 then check multimeter, you want to see over 13.2-13.5 ideally if system is charging. If not, you have a voltage regulator/alternator/battery/wiring issue.
Parasitic draw -
1. Put a multimeter probe between negative post and negative battery cable (which means disconnect ground cable from battery).
2. Put multimeter on DC Amps, mA. Depending on multimeter you'll want 20-100mA
3. Turn key off, turn accessories off (as if you were going to bed for example).
4. Read multimeter. If you have more than say 20-50mA on screen, go into cab and remove one fuse at a time. When/if mA drops or essentially zeros out, you've found your circuit.
5. Read factory wiring diagram for that circuit and look at each assembly and wiring harness for flaws. If nothing visible, start disconnecting items such as bulbs, computers, etc until draw disappears.
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Parasitic draw - #3 the only fused-circuits, for my year on a factory harness that are supposed to be on when the ignition switch is in the "off"-position are the "stop" (brake lights, horn, and hazards), "headlamp" (lights switch, and dimmer switch), "tail" (license-tag lamp(s), heater-control lamp, and instrument cluster) and "lighter" (cigarette-lighter, inspection socket, and domelight). So, it could be the ignition switch itself if anything else is live.
No charge at all, check for a decent ground at the firewall connection for the voltage regulator? Do voltage regulator points fail all at once?
OlYellr
SILVER Star
Progress, not perfection
Green Bean
SILVER Star
A few small things: New OE rear lights & brackets; door packing; and cup holder adhesion.
OE door seal packing is NLA but City Racer has this:
After the addition of carpet and felt over the tunnel, the magnets on the bottom of the cup holder no longer held. I went with 3M Dual Lock.
OE door seal packing is NLA but City Racer has this:
After the addition of carpet and felt over the tunnel, the magnets on the bottom of the cup holder no longer held. I went with 3M Dual Lock.
Where did you acquire the cup holder?
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Green Bean
SILVER Star
Way cool. I’m sure those could be sold easily.