What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (15 Viewers)

[DylanH239]

Way cool. I’m sure those could be sold easily.

There is something similar available for 73-78 cruisers online. It’s definitely a nice touch for sure.

 

[Green Bean]

I had some left over felt from the carpet installation, so I decided to try and tackle the lower firewall. Not sure if it will help a little with the sound & heat. But I figure it kaint hoit. Besides which... working in the 110 degree garage is some kind of sick therapy.

 

[fj40fillet]

With the amount of rust that would be the best plan.

I just and replaced the bottom of mine.

 

[fj40fillet]

@mef0629 I'd disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Not knowing where that juice is going wouldn't let me sleep at night. A long time ago, I'd use a quick disconnect knife-switch on the negative terminal...
I had a cowl seam water-short in the my stereo, and the always-on source of power energized the ignition-on side of the radio, walked by the truck, heard music.

Disconnect the negative, set a test meter to DCv milliamps. Put the probes between the neg battery post and the disconnect clamp on the truck harness. You should not see any voltage being drawn with the key off and truck not running. If you do. Something is shorting out and draining your battery.

 

[Pitter Patter]

Door repair compete. Ran out of reducer so I can’t paint until this weekend.
I will do a write up soon. I used topnault repair panels, the reason for not using CCOT this time is that the rust went up too high on the inner panels of both front doors. Topnault panels go half way up the door!
In final 2k sandable primer ready to be sanded and sprayed.

I drenched the inside bottom of the doors with SPI epoxy primer, when I’m done I will spray galvanizing spray from the welding shop and clear over that.

Yesterday I welded the last panel, body filled both doors, epoxy primed all in 12 hours on a dirt floor. I’m tired.

Now I need to find all of the replacement components for the doors.
View attachment 3696687View attachment 3696688View attachment 3696689View attachment 3696690

Along with your write up. Would you mind laying a straight edge on the lower outer part of the door and shoot some pics or post some measurements? Curious how much oil can effect there is on the door or should it be dead flat?

Early in my restoration I outsourced the door body work and the dude royally F’ed it up. I’m considering cutting his patches off and starting over but I’m struggling to find a reference of what it should be.

This is how he gave it back to me. Look at that ridge on the patch vs the door.

I spent an hour or so heat shrinking and hammer dolly working to get it leveled a bit. Then I got angry and walked away. The problem is that it’s oil canned somewhat because his patch was flat and the door material was oil canned onto that flat patch so I tried to work the same curvature as the door material but I don’t know if that curvature should be there?

Still needs a ton of work. Should I stop and re/patch or keep working it to a smooth oil canned shape?

Thanks a ton.

Public Service Announcement: do your own work. Don’t do what I did thinking I could outsource and get a good result.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Big fan of learn to do it yourself - works on must things except stuff like CPR.

Go to the wrecking yards and get some cheap doors, cut a patch from one and stitch it into the other - practice/learn on stuff you don't care about. When your skill level and results meet your requirements, do yours. Tons of pro tips on youtube how to do it right and how to fix stuff that went south.

 

[knuckle47]

@charliemeyer007 in 60 years I never thought of that…. Great idea to just grab a fender or some cheap part and fix it as if it were for your vehicle. My first body and paint job was my restored ‘50s Harley sidecar but since it came out great, I figured I must have a natural ability...

My newest upcoming class is on Hyperspark install. Like you, I’ll try everything on my own. Sometimes you really surprise yourself and the learning experience moves on with you

 

[clrussell]

i agree with @knuckle47

That is a great idea I’ve never thought of.

 

[Grayscale]

Along with your write up. Would you mind laying a straight edge on the lower outer part of the door and shoot some pics or post some measurements? Curious how much oil can effect there is on the door or should it be dead flat?

Early in my restoration I outsourced the door body work and the dude royally F’ed it up. I’m considering cutting his patches off and starting over but I’m struggling to find a reference of what it should be.

This is how he gave it back to me. Look at that ridge on the patch vs the door.

View attachment 3697823

I spent an hour or so heat shrinking and hammer dolly working to get it leveled a bit. Then I got angry and walked away. The problem is that it’s oil canned somewhat because his patch was flat and the door material was oil canned onto that flat patch so I tried to work the same curvature as the door material but I don’t know if that curvature should be there?

View attachment 3697827Still needs a ton of work. Should I stop and re/patch or keep working it to a smooth oil canned shape?

Thanks a ton.

Public Service Announcement: do your own work. Don’t do what I did thinking I could outsource and get a good result.

My guess. The inside of the exterior skin of the door likely experienced significant surface rust. What that did is it relieves the internal stress of the steel on the inside. Because steel always has internal stresses from manufacturing, rust will influence it to the point that it elongates, yet the outside panel's exterior is still in tension, so it overall puckers.

I cut-out a section from an early 40 door, and it was like a potato chip, you didn't need a straight-edge to tell. It will barely accommodate the glass and what not. When I was done playing around with that door, it sported a proper raw-appearance, including ungrounded SMAW beads, no bondo.

 

[70fj40]

Grocery getter. Took my wife to get a few items. Sitting here watching people check the ole Landcruiser out. Good times!

 

[sleepycruiser]

View attachment 3698302Grocery getter. Took my wife to get a few items. Sitting here watching people check the ole Landcruiser out. Good times!

‘That’s a nice Jeep you have!’

 

[Pitter Patter]

‘That’s a nice Jeep you have!’

Here’s a stupid duck

 

[Thechief86]

Here’s a stupid duck

I finally learned today what the ducks are for! They melt them down to make new plastic tie rod ends!!

 

[hanzo111]

Along with your write up. Would you mind laying a straight edge on the lower outer part of the door and shoot some pics or post some measurements? Curious how much oil can effect there is on the door or should it be dead flat?

Early in my restoration I outsourced the door body work and the dude royally F’ed it up. I’m considering cutting his patches off and starting over but I’m struggling to find a reference of what it should be.

This is how he gave it back to me. Look at that ridge on the patch vs the door.

View attachment 3697823

I spent an hour or so heat shrinking and hammer dolly working to get it leveled a bit. Then I got angry and walked away. The problem is that it’s oil canned somewhat because his patch was flat and the door material was oil canned onto that flat patch so I tried to work the same curvature as the door material but I don’t know if that curvature should be there?

View attachment 3697827Still needs a ton of work. Should I stop and re/patch or keep working it to a smooth oil canned shape?

Thanks a ton.

Public Service Announcement: do your own work. Don’t do what I did thinking I could outsource and get a good result.

Can you show me the straight edge down to the bottom of the door please so run it from under the ridge to the very bottom.

No, I would not start over, mine had a little bit of a dip where I did my weld line and so I ran a 36 grit sander rusted up and filled it with body filler after banging it out as much as I could.

You can call me during the day tomorrow before 2 PM if you like Eastern time240-five05-4032

 

[pb4ugo]

I thought if a panel is actually "oil canning" the metal needs to be shrunk to stabilize it?

 

[hanzo111]

I thought if a panel is actually "oil canning" the metal needs to be shrunk to stabilize it?

Yes, if you are building a concourse show winner. Also you would need to know how to do it and own the proper tools or you will warp the whole thing.
You will have to choose what is important and what is possible for yourself.

It oil canned because it was heated too much during welding. Or the gap was too tight between the patch panels.

Also body filler will stabilize it as well. Exteemly strong. I use rage gold. If you are worried you could put down fiberfill over the roughed up welds then body fill

Excellent tutorial here

 

[FJ40Savvy]

The idea @Aloha Jen used for her third taillight is infinitely easier. I did have an extra rear hubcap and I had trouble locating the lamps that Jen used so I felt it time to be creative. All I had located was 4” tail lamp. I looked all over the internet, Amazon, and retailers locally including Harbor Freight. Since messaging Jen … she pointed me in the right direction for the same lamp she used and it will be here tomorrow. I searched 4” and hers is a 5”.

The lamp I did have is about 4.25” so while it fit in the front hubcap cutout, I felt it could be more secure especially that Jen had it screwed in place. This grommeted one uses a lip and groove to secure itself in hole and It stays in place. Since the hubcap has a pointed shape, it acts as a centering hole for the pilot on the hole saw and kept it centered. The provided template matched the hole saw perfectly.

Oil on the cutter is a friend as is a tight grip on the hubcap, the cut is quick with the thin metal in the hubcap. I am using both of these on 2 different vehicles. One thing about visibility….there can never be enough!

The light visibility on the back of a FJ40 is horrible. The upgrade by Jen is a great idea and very clean. Well Done

I also wanted to have get running, brake and signal above mounted jerry can. The auxiliary light plugs directly into the trailer connection. The light is manufactured in Canada and is originally designed to be used for hitch mounted bike racks.

Builds - Louie - 1973 FJ40 - A OEM work in Progress

Little Repairs - High Beam indicator was not working. I pulled to the dash to try and troubleshoot the problem. The blub was loose in the housing. It looks like the PO did a repair using a piece of plastic to have spring tension because the black plastic piece on the wire was black and...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[knuckle47]

Having another question of re-installing the window seal on the ambulance door. Do I keep the rubber on the window and start at the bottom using the string method or set the rubber on the door frame and try to wedge the glass into the groove?

Anyone have a suggestion having done it before?

 

[Homey15]

Having another question of re-installing the window seal on the ambulance door. Do I keep the rubber on the window and start at the bottom using the string method or set the rubber on the door frame and try to wedge the glass into the groove?

Anyone have a suggestion having done it before?

View attachment 3699979

Rubber on glass first, then install into door opening. Rope trick works great, a cotter pin puller tool is very useful as well.

 

[sogafarm]

I have a bad leak coming from the rear output seal of the pto on my ‘75 to the point I have to keep a pan below the pto case drain bolt and I’m having to top off my transfer case with gear oil often. I think that the pto case is Toyota part but my winch is a Ramsey. I have searched online but can’t find a source for a new seal. Does anyone know of a source for the seal or if this is indeed an oem Toyota pto case. Appreciate any advice.